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ford engine education needed..


southwind25

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is there a book, or a good general website that i/we can educate myself about the various ford 4 cylinder engines and there interchangeabilty, specs, dimensions, uses, general and detailed info etc etc...?

Our new birkin is comming with a ford kent 1.6 x-flow. It seems like a nice engine but we are used to the A-series brit stuff and dont know much about the care and feeding of this new (to us) ford engine. Perhaps tuning ability? what to use and not use?

As well, it would be interesting to see how it compares to say..a pinto OHC engine, or a 2.0 or...whatever?

What should we do or not do to the engine?

ok...for now lets assume a zetec is several years away, we wont be going to a bike engine and we decide to keep what we have for a while..would an aluminum head be a good investment? This 1.6 is the same as the formulas ford engine right?

Just trying to learn about what we are getting into with the little ford stuff...so we can ask intelligent questions.

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You are correct that the Kent engine is the engine long used in the Formula Fords, it is also the same engine as used in the Pinto. Generally speaking, the racers have over the years snapped up nearly all of the original spares which makes looking for cheap replacements a bit trickier. For example, two years ago the SCCA had to start allowing the use of aftermarket crankshafts because the original stuff was getting very hard to find. A good place to look for parts would be Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies and other race-based suppliers.

 

The aluminum head is a very desirable modification which saves some weight and adds some power, it is known in the racing community as a "national head". The down side is that the bare head alone is around a grand (if memory serves). If you were going to be racing the car an aluminum head would be the simple choice but since it is mainly going to be used for street use you need to consider if the negligable gain in HP (and loss of some weight) is worth the cost.

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I just jumped over to the Pegasus site to get some more accurate info for you. They do not list the bare aluminum head but do sell a complete Ivey prepared one for $2,550.00.

 

Also, in my experience I have found that you will want to keep a close eye on your seals to keep the engine from leaking oil like a seive. the biggest culprits we have are the front main seal and the oil pan gasket. It seems that as soon as we solve one source a new one pops up.

 

www.apexspeed.com has a Formula Ford forum section where with a bit of digging you may be able to find answers to some of your future questions.

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Mike,

I used to Auto-x and solo 1 an old Formula Ford, and also had my ?'s on what makes it tick. I was limited on what I could to it , SCCA has rules about that. I found a place at the time in Wayne Pa., now they are in Fla. BAT Racing . The used to have tons of parts and Know -How on these engines. They are great engines, maybe alittle old school, but a good solid power plant. I do remember having a hard time finding a crankshaft, mine was not a up-rated block. Newer FF's use the uprated block. FF is still a big SCCA class, and they use the same engine, If you look down that road , you may find some answers. The fast fast guys have the engine built, and their are a few that do it very well. Ted Wenz,is the first name to comes to mind. I hope this helps, and if I find more detailed info, and I am going to look, I would be glad to help. I have to look in the garage, I may have info, I save all kinds of stuff, AKA, Pack Rat !!! Steve Novelli

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Thanks so far guys..ANY info would be great..

for the time being...we will probably just keep the 1600 kent block we have.

i might have a lead on an good aluminum head cheap..

of course giving up pasta would loose the same weight...but not as trick! (and a polished aluminum head would just be cool)

As far as the pinto engine...from what we know, it was a 2000 OHC engine but my 1600 kent is traditional pushrod head.

 

same block? i would guess the OHV engine to be taller as well...no? would such a thing fit under the bonnet? then i see theres a 1700 as well..and even a 2300?

are these all variations-diffrent bores on the same block? it's not that easy is it? :willy:

 

As far as oil leaks...:rofl: I have owned british cars for 25 years...:_deadhorse:

they help kill the grass in my driveway!

even a brand new freshly built 1275 a-series new seals and gaskets leaks like crazy! i am quiet used to it.

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The Kent engine was only used in 1971 & 1972 on the Pinto (1600cc). Here is the list of engines used in the Pinto throughout its life:

 

1971

1.6 L (98 CID) Kent OHV I4 - 75 hp (56 kW) and 96 ft.lbf (130 Nm)

2.0 L (122 CID) EAO SOHC I4 - 100 hp (74.5 kW)

 

1972

1.6 L Kent - 54 hp (40 kW)

2.0 L EAO - 86 hp (64 kW)

 

1973

2.0 L EAO - 86 hp (64 kW)

 

1974

2.0 L EAO - 86 hp (64 kW)

2.3 L OHC - 90 hp (67 kW)

 

1975

2.3 L OHC - 83 hp (62 kW)

2.8 L (170 CID) Cologne V6 - 97 hp (72 kW)

 

1976

2.3 L OHC - 92 hp (69 kW) and 121 ft.lbf (163 Nm)

2.8 L Cologne - 103 hp (77 kW) and 149 ft.lbf (201 Nm)

 

1977

2.3 L OHC - 89 hp (66 kW) and 120 ft.lbf (162 Nm)

2.8 L Cologne - 93 hp (69 kW) and 140 ft.lbf (189 Nm)

 

1978

2.3 L OHC - 88 hp (66 kW) and 118 ft.lbf (159 Nm)

2.8 L Cologne - 90 hp (67 kW) and 143 ft.lbf (193 Nm)

 

1979

2.3 L OHC - 88 hp (66 kW) and 118 ft.lbf (159 Nm)

2.8 L Cologne - 102 hp (76 kW) and 138 ft.lbf (186 Nm)

 

1980

2.3 L OHC - 88 hp (66 kW) and 119 ft.lbf (160 Nm)

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Sorry SW25, I got who I was sending crossed up.

Glad to read that I am not the only English car guy, in the past we have had TR4's , 1275Cooper s, lot's of MGB's, English FF. And my father -inlaw has a TD, MGA, and a very nice 65 MGB, and when there is work to be done they leak on my driveway. If they don't leak, their empty !!!

 

Cheers as they say, Steve

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My .02 worth...

 

Unless you intend to race, stay away from an scca-spec engine, the driveability around town is crap, and unnecessarily expensive.

 

Aluminum head also very hard to justify cost-wise for a street car, as you won't see any real around-town power/driveability benefit at street revs, small weight-reduction effect on handling not withstanding.

 

 

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The car will mostly be used for..well..about all we can, not unlike what mr slomove does here..(from what we read)

We will be doing some track days as well as some auto-xing. but yes, the car will be used 70% on the street.

has anyone put a fuel injection system on the 1600? or if i am going to do something like that why didnt i just move up to a diffrent powerplant/zetec etc?

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Peter and Valerie Wallage's book "Rebuilding and Tuning Ford's Kent Crossflow Engine" is a handy reference to keep around. It doesn't cover much beyond basic sorts of tuning, but has good information about things like differences between the uprated (711M) and earlier blocks.

 

Another good source for parts/knowledge is Dave Bean Racing:

 

http://www.davebean.com/

 

As previously mentioned, little oil leaks are pretty common. The sump gasket set is a royal PITA; if your sump doesn't leak then either the engine's run out of oil, or you've been blessed by a higher power and must swear a solemn oath never to forsake Him by removing the sump. :)

 

Aside from that, they are great engines. Simple, robust, respectable (if not earth-shattering) power and the sounds and smells will make all the EFI Zetec guys jealous. :D

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Hi SW25,

 

Check out the Burton Power website for a description of the various small Ford motors and a tuning guide for each. They also carry just about every part needed for the Kent, Zetec, etc, motors and I believe they even have a FI set-up for the Kent motor. The only downside is they're in England and the shipping and exchange rate could kill your wallet!!

 

http://www.burtonpower.com/default.aspx

 

You can also check out Cherik's website. He has a nice Kent vs Zetec comparison, as well as a nice write-up on his conversion to the Zetec motor in his Caterham if you decide to go that route in the future.

 

http://my.voyager.net/~quadrant19/index.html

 

Hope this helps,

 

Bruce

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I'm having trouble finding a water pump that fits my crossflow. The block is stamped "771M" and I recall reading that the preferred engine is the "711M." Can any of you experts tell me what I've got?

 

Mike in Asheville

 

Look before you leap department: By following some of the links in this thread, I answered the question. The 771 M engine was the crossflow as fitted to the Fiesta in the '80s, which explains the waterpump problem. Burtonpower.com is the bomb.

 

Mike

 

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SW25. By chance, I have 2 copies of the Wallages' book:"Rebuilding and Tuning Ford's Kent Crossflow Engine". PM your post office address & I will ship one out to you, gratis.

 

When I asked Rocky Mountain Sports Cars about swapping my X-flow for a Zetec, their recommendation was to sell the X-flow car & buy one w/a Zetec. Yes it can/has been /will be done, but it's a huge hassle.

 

I find myself so busy re-repairing things that were repaired 2 months ago, that adding unnecessary repair projects seems overwhelming.

 

Besides, I think the X-flow engine is a safety feature. Why? Because you will be going just that much slower if something ugly happens:)).

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We will be doing some track days as well as some auto-xing. but yes, the car will be used 70% on the street.

has anyone put a fuel injection system on the 1600? or if i am going to do something like that why didnt i just move up to a diffrent powerplant/zetec etc?

I had a 1700 crossflow with a Kent 236 cam, and two 40DCOEs that put out about 115hp. I did a lot of research on increasing the power and had several e-mail exchanges with Roger King in the UK who was considered the top tuner for that engine. He told me that the Kent 246 cam with a 3D ignition system was very drivable and had as much low end torque as a Kent 236 with 2D ignition, but a properly built engine with head work and larger valves was at best ~160hp. Yes, I could tune for more with an even more aggressive cam and with steel internals, but streetability and reliability took hits. I looked into converting the car to fuel injection and the consensus was that although driveability would improve there wouldn’t be much of a hp gain. Feedback on the aluminum head was that it was best viewed as a handling upgrade. It pares off ~18lbs from pretty high up in the chassis which is a good thing.

 

I really loved the crossflow and wanted to keep it – I’ve never heard a 4 cylinder engine that sounds better – but after looking at all my options and factoring in the costs, I decided to go with a Duratec.

 

-John

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Mike in Asheville, My thought was what i saw you figured out. I work with the shop that you picked your car up from, If you give us a call we could help you , I have a kent motor in mine, dont have any spares yet but will help with any info i can.........How is your build going, I am lookin foward to having yours done, it should be the 5th in the area, again if i can be of help call us.

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my home address is

2357 copley rd akron ohio 44320

wow greatly appreciated!

how much do we need to send you for the book and shipping

 

 

i have to admit i am surprised by the HP #'s i am reading here in reference to the x-flow.

The little 1300 a-series in my sprite will give me 100 streetable hp on a set of S.U.'s

i would figure that 125 hp or more would be quiet common for a weber carb'd 1600+ engine.

especially with the x-flow configuration. but as said...i need to educate myself here

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Hi Southwind25,

I've read just about every piece of literature known regarding the XFLOW. I am currently building a 1700 Super sprint version that, if all goes well, should give me somewhere in the 150 HP range. I am using a 711M block that i bought a short time ago. I am refreshing the original engine and tucking it away--its the original engine that came with the car and I believe it's worth more in an unmolested stage. The suggestions so far on material are correct--Ken at Dave Bean has been a wealth of knowledge, Pegasus has some really cool items, and dont forget that this is a version of the Pinto engine and there are many lower cost parts that will work just fine. Be sure to read the FF1600 bible--written by Jake Lamont and Tom Andresen--well worth the few bucks. I would also purchase the English Racers parts book from Dave Bean--the best $4 you will ever spend. The aluminum head has been showing up on e-bay for around 850 but it still need to be assembled etc. The only reason I have one is because it came with my car--the owner never installed it.

 

Please feel free to contact me should you have any specific questions-- i will help anyway I can.

 

BTW: I started down the path to install the 2.0, even bought an engine--but reverted back to the 1.6. The 2.0 is taking up room in the shop so i will probably list it for sale shortly.

 

Happy Holidays,

Sal

 

:flag:

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