coffee break Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 (edited) I got my 7 back from the shop and they made the Webers behave much better. The motor would get to 5500 and go FLAT, and now it zips to 6500 with no problem... except, 3rd is hard to find if I'm tacking it up or down shifting. A few months ago the tranny started to get hard to shift, so I pulled the filler plug to check the level. It was low. I added gear oil, over filling a little because it will leave a drop or two when it sits. Investigation time. I pulled the fill plug to drain off the excess. It was 3 oz. I checked the bottle of gear oil and I had added 13 oz., so it was 10 oz. low. The spec is 0.9 litre, about 30 oz. Since the chassis has about 7k miles on it, the car isn't broken in yet. It's a 1995 chassis that was assembled in 1998. Since I am at least the 4th owner, there is some history missing. I have in the documentation a proposal from Texas Motor Works, that might be for this car. I'm not sure. Any, I'm wondering what transmission I have and who can rebuild it. According to the build manual it is from the Ford (UK) Escort MkII. It is described as a close ratio with clutch cable, integral bellhousing and one piece rear gear lever extension casting. I'm also wondering if it was used when it was installed (it doesn't matter at this point.) Here are a few photos. Edited August 30, 2014 by coffee break Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted August 30, 2014 Author Share Posted August 30, 2014 I'm more interested in rebuilding this box, but replacing it with a 5 speed could be an option, it would depend on what other changes would be required... clutch, hydrolic vs cable, drive shaft etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wemtd Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 (edited) you should try contacting Quantum Mechanics in Connecticut. 203-463-8299 (from their interweb page) I don't have any personal experience but am led to believe they are the experts for all that ails our gear boxes. good luck P. ps. these may (or probably won't) help you. - sorry, it's too large to post: edit. edit.. edit... edit.... edit..... edit...... finally sorted it... look under "Type 9-N Gearbox pdf" http://www.topdocsracing.com/pdf-links ford_cases.pdf Edited August 30, 2014 by wemtd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted September 1, 2014 Author Share Posted September 1, 2014 I'll be calling QM Tuesday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted September 1, 2014 Author Share Posted September 1, 2014 I was wondering, "How am I going to get the gearbox out?" Well, I am cleaning and polishing the car for next weekend's Atlanta British Car Fayre. So I discovered the carpet was secured with snaps, I was expecting it was glued down. After removing the carpets I found a cover! Wow. That make it look easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scannon Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 I have had very good luck using Redline MTL or MT90 for baulky syncros. You might try a refill before you pull the trans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted September 1, 2014 Author Share Posted September 1, 2014 I have had very good luck using Redline MTL or MT90 for baulky syncros. You might try a refill before you pull the trans. Is either one of these compatible with regular 90wt? There is no drain plug, so I will need to remove the top cover and suck it out. There will be some amount remaining. It's worth a try! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scannon Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 Is either one of these compatible with regular 90wt? There is no drain plug, so I will need to remove the top cover and suck it out. There will be some amount remaining. It's worth a try! It a synthetic blend, I'm no expert but I think it should be compatible. I've put it in many transmissions that had normal 90 weight. They were bottom drainers but some is retained in the transmission. The MTL is a little lighter and recommended for street use, the MT-90 is thicker and recommended for track use although I use it in my Miata and Caterham (Miata engine and transmission) on the street. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 Redline MTL on order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanG Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 The tunnel cover is pretty trick. The shifter connection rods look a bit agricultural. You could probably save a half a pound with some creative drill work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted September 10, 2014 Author Share Posted September 10, 2014 After further investigation, the syncros may not be the bad or worst parts in the box. My mechanic drove the car earlier today. His analysis is an input shaft bearing may be failing. It will shift into all gears at 3k, but higher RPMs make it difficult to shift. 3rd gear cannot be engaged if I rev it above 4k. I was planning on driving it this Fall as the temperature gets better, but that will have to wait. Bummer :toetap05: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 A hot rodder friend of mine help me pull the engine and tranny out today. I've found a few more parts to replace. A engine mount failed, but I'm not surprised. It's 16 years old. A whole back someone posted info on engine mounts on Amazon, URO Parts C18556. The internal thread is 1/2-20 UNF. Since both are the same age, so I'm looking for two. The other is the clutch disk. The chassis only has 7400 miles on it, but some of the friction material is fracturing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scannon Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Bad engine mounts can cause shifting problems and could be why your 3rd gear wouldn't go into gear. The engine and trans torque over and the shifter goes with them. 3rd gear is no longer where your hand thinks it is and it won't go into gear. The mounts look like the standard Caterham mounts which aren't that expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 A hot rodder friend of mine help me pull the engine and tranny out today. I've found a few more parts to replace. A engine mount failed, but I'm not surprised. It's 16 years old. A whole back someone posted info on engine mounts on Amazon, URO Parts C18556. The internal thread is 1/2-20 UNF. Since both are the same age, so I'm looking for two. The other is the clutch disk. The chassis only has 7400 miles on it, but some of the friction material is fracturing. Dang, coffee, you're hard on a car! :jester: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted September 17, 2014 Author Share Posted September 17, 2014 Dang, coffee, you're hard on a car! :jester: I can't account for the 5600 miles that were on it when I got it. It was advertised in CA. in 2007 with 2700 miles. In the info on the car it indicated the motor had been freshly rebuilt. The guy I bought it from replaced the rear A arm rubber bushings. He said they should be replaced regularly. They tend to get beat up by dumping 1st gear. That may explain the messed up clutch disk. :smash: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kitcat Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 I am adding poor shifting to the long list of mysterious X-flow maladies caused by bad engine mounts. Don't recall cost but maybe $10-15 each? My recommendation is replace them every 5K miles, they seem to get beat up fast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 . . . . engine mounts. . . . . . replace them every 5K miles, they seem to get beat up fast. Those New Jersey weekends are rough on the ride. :jester: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drew... Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Is the failed engine mount on the header side of the motor? The outer surfaces in your photo look as though heat is likely part of the failure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 Is the failed engine mount on the header side of the motor? The outer surfaces in your photo look as though heat is likely part of the failure. Yes, it has been baked. I'm looking for two mounts to freshen it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted September 25, 2014 Author Share Posted September 25, 2014 New motor mounts are in the mail from UK and a box of items arrived from Pegasus (clutch disk & alignment tool, oil pan & exhaust gaskets and crankshaft scraper) Delivered the tranny to a guy that only works on British cars. He was working on a A-H 3000 tranny when I stopped by. I'll find out in a few days what he finds out. When we were taking the driveshaft loose, we noticed all the bolts were not tight. They would turn if you didn't restrain the nut. I'm going to replace them, they are .375-24 x 1.00. Are they grade 5 or 8? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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