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Thanks for the informative response Croc. Option 1 would not work out for me since I will not and likely could not do the work. Still working on who will do the work. I will check out your other options.

OP here. Lack of clarity continues to be the theme of this thread, and these tariffs generally. But I decided to wade into the murky waters anyway. It'll be several more months before I have to import anything, and I think it is near impossible to predict what the state of affairs will be at that time, so hoping for the best. I'll keep the thread posted if any details emerge...

Croc, It should physically bolt to any T5 however, there are differences that could affect the fitment. You would have to take in consideration the bearing retainer diameter, length, and what bell-housing you want to adapt to. I fabricated this adapter on using a Ford version T5 from a Mustang that had the 2.3 Lima engine. Hope this helps.

I had a similar conversation with a fellow purchasing a TR5 from the UK this week, his concern was the same. I advised that no clarification has been made in regards to new vs used car tariffs, or if there would be specific exceptions based on physical age. To the best of my knowledge, the tariffs are based on new vehicle imports at this time, and no additional "import fees" have been levied on cars such as the TR5 at this time. Will this hold, time will tell. Bill

Brilliant first post as John noted above. I have a question - would this work with other versions of the T5, say the World Class Motorsports WCM T5?

The fail rate on those Titans was fairly low relative to total units installed so you really were just unlucky to get a bad one. Still not acceptable for any owner though so I can understand why you want to go a different route rather than repeating the same component. What I would investigating doing is re-using the existing casing (not sure about this) or getting a Sierra 7" diff housing and installing Tracsport LSD internals. I have one in my UK track car and never had an issue. Choices of final drive ratio to suit Caterhams - model it out to determine if you have the best ratio - Caterham ratios chosen for production are not always right for the intended use but you can fix that with this replacement diff. Its the best LSD diff option you can install in a Caterham. The catch? Tracsport is best suited to buying components to do the work yourself. Steve the owner is a brilliant guy but he is run off his feet in what is a single person component business. I was at his workshop last year (a fantastic old mill in a small town in the Midlands) and seen the quality of the work but he will take forever if you ask him to do a complete diff. If you buy the components and do the work yourself in the US then it will be done quicker. Second option on the linked page. https://www.tracsport.com/lsds If that does not suit then I would have a chat with Raceline - Chris Smith is the guy I deal with. They can do a Sierra casing with Quaife ATB LSD internals. They know their Caterhams so it will work. I have had this solution in a past Caterham with no issues. There are a choice of ratios so you need to model your gearbox ratios and final drive to make sure you are choosing the right final drive ratio. You can in theory buy direct through Quaife but they are better suited to wholesaling - I got jerked around trying to buying a gearbox last year and ended up buying the same gearbox through Raceline at the same price with all the answers I needed to my installation questions. As with all Quaife products, frequent oil changes are recommended while the gears are bedding in. https://www.raceline.co.uk/products/part_section.asp?categoryID=6 &SectionID=87 One open question for you to check as I do not know the answer off the top of my head, is whether you need to change prop shaft or rear half drive shafts by changing from the Titan housing to a Sierra 7" diff housing. Easy enough to get a new prop shaft made here in the USA once you measure up but its important to check now. I suspect the answer is no change as thats the type of cheap decision to save money I could see Caterham making.

I'm thinking second hand imported 7's will get hit really hard. Seeing upwards of 40% tariffs on a bargain 7 @ 22,000 would be 31k. Yikes

Then that bottom edge should have reached the frame. They cut it short. I would ask for another, with corrections. Or take the opportunity to fab a hinge Piano hinge

$34 is not 25% of what my seat kit cost. My guess is pre-trump duties. Thanks for the data point!

These are 10" wide x 40" long x 26" diameter. They are in good shape, what looks like damaged fiberglass is just stretch wrap that has decomposed. They came off of a Caterham with 13" wheels, mounts are for Caterham/Triumph uprights.

Beautiful car. Can you tell me more about it? Are those 14" wheels? Does it have harnesses or belts? LSD? Is the 6 speed a sequential? S3 or SV? I'm flying up to MI in a couple of weeks. If it hasn't sold, I'd like to stop by and check it out. I'm more in the market for a 360, but this is such a gorgeous car that I'm interested.

Yes, the headlight brackets align under the openings

Hello. My not long ago purchased 2014 360 seems to have a a failed LSD. This is based on louder and louder knocking noises and when I spin the wheels elevated on jack they do not spin together. The other does not move at all. I'm not looking for diagnosis support but what to do next. I've attached an article that states the 2010-2015s were cursed with this LSD. Caterham offers a Titan replacement but I don't want the same unit and the same problems in a few thousand miles. I'd rather replace with something better. I'd appreciate any assistance or knowledge particularly with those who have experienced this issue. Thanks. BMW Limited Slip Differential - A Titan(ic) Problem?.pdf

Do the headlamp brackets align under the openings?

Incidently, about a week after I ordered the nose cone from MSC, I received a message from Chris at Redline that he had a S-2 nosecone that he could send to me! So if anyone is in the market for a nose cone, check with Chris and perhaps his product would need no modifications.

Motorsports Composites nosecone: Thankyou Scott! I ordered a nose cone it from MSC. It fits quite well and the quality is good. I will need to make the following modifications: 1) cutout for the anti-sway bar 2) extend the skirt to fit the lower Dzus fasteners

Great first post; welcome to the forum!

FORD 2.3L T5 TRANSMISSION To PINTO 2.0L BELLHOUSING I’ve been wanting to build a Lotus 7 style car for some years now, but life hasn’t let me get started on the project as much as I would like. I have acquired an engine and transmission for the project, and I am in the process of a rebuild/refresh on both. It’s kind of a backwards way to start with the engine and transmission first but I happened to come across them at good prices. Hopefully in the near future I will be able to get started on a chassis or find one for sale if anyone has or knows of one. Engine. The engine I chose is the Ford OHC 2.0L 4cyl from a 1973 Pinto. Also called the 2.0L EAO engine from Ford of Germany. This engine was only used in the USA from 71-73 in the Ford Pinto. After that Ford only used it in Europe for a few decades more. Why this engine when there a many different and more modern engines to choose from? Its unique, kind of iconic for use in the Lotus 7 type cars, especially in the UK and it rolled off the assembly line the same year I was born. There is lots of info on the internet about this engine, so I won’t go into too much detail. I will however state that the 2.0L OHC is not the same and does not share parts with the later 2.3Lima and 2.0 that was used in ford rangers or mustangs. Particularly the bellhousing bolt pattern. The only manual transmission available for this engine was a 4 speed. Transmission. After 73 Ford went with the 2.3 Lima engines for the go to 4cyl. I believe because there was a big supply of 4spd transmissions, the 2.3 engines were made with a dual bolt pattern on later blocks, so the 4spd that was used in the early 2.0L will bolt up to 2.3 engines. There are differences in flywheels and clutches. I believe there are a few different 4spds used in the Pintos and Mustang IIs. For a transmission I knew I wanted something a little more modern, so I came across a deal for a T5 5spd from an 84 SVO Mustang. It’s a big upgrade from the old 4spds used in Pintos and Mustang IIs plus parts and spare transmissions are everywhere. The T5 from a Foxbody 2.3 will physically bolt up to the 2.0 block but only 4 of the 6 bellhousing bolts line up due to the different pattern. The top 2 bolt holes are much higher on a 2.3 bellhousing. The spacing of the input shaft length and the pilot bearing diameter all are the same and fit perfectly. 2.3l T5 : Uses a 9” clutch disc 1-1/16 x 10t spline. 2.0 Pinto 4spd: Uses 8.5” clutch disc 1” x 23t spline. There is aftermarket 8.5” clutches available with the same spline size as the T5. Throw-out bearing has a smaller I.D. than the T5 but the OD is identical and a T5 throw-out bearing fits the clutch fork of the 4spd. Since the T5 was never mated to the 4spd bellhousings and I wanted to have all 6 bolt holes mate up I looked at what was possible. There are a few different 5spd transmissions available and there are a few companies that make custom bellhousings, but everything must come from Europe and is quite costly. I think there is a company out of Australia that makes an adapter plate, but they do not ship out of Australia or New Zealand. After lots of thinking and searching I decided I would attempt to build my own adapter. After a few measurements I found the T5 bell to be about .440” taller than the 4spd bell. With that measurement I decided to use 12x12x 1/2” thick 6061 aluminum plate purchased from Amazon. This would mean that I’m adding .060 of distance from the engine when the transmission is mounted to the bellhousing. A non-issue The bellhousings are a registered fit from the bearing retainer so this first step is critical and must be held to a perfect tolerance. For this part I had access to a metal lathe and used a boring bar to get a precision fit to the T5 bearing retainer. I mounted the plate to the front of the transmission and used c-clamps to hold it in place. I then used a transfer punch to mark the holes to bolt it to the transmission. After the holes were marked I used a drill press to pilot drill then drill to size and tap for the M16x1.75 bolts used in the transmission. After the plate was mounted to transmission this is the way I came up with to register and mount the 4spd bellhousing. I used a scrap 2” 150#class pipe flange to make a stepped bushing. Again this was made using a metal lathe and the tolerance was held tightly. I turned the bushing to match the bore of the T5 bell and the bore of the 4spd bell. It was also clearanced to fit over the bearing retainer of the T5. This bushing remains in place with the adapter plate. I used the bushing to hold the 4spd bell in alignment with the plate. The T5 trans as installed in a mustang has about a 5deg cant towards the driver side. I chose to orient the 4spd bell to have zero cant in the transmission and then used a transfer punch to mark holes. The holes were drilled and tapped to M16x1.75 After the holes were tapped I mounted the plate back to the transmission and outlined where to cut. I used a jig saw with blades made specifically aluminum. It is helpful to take your time and go slow to prevent the blades from clogging up. Aluminum gets sticky when it gets hot. Also buy at least a 5 pack of blades. I used my oscillating belt sander to dress up the edges after cutting. Finished product with 4spd bell attached to a T5.

measuring the "length" just lay a tape along the center line end to end

wdb- Just received my kit from Newton. When UPS dropped it off (which literally took 3 days from England) they collected $34 which the driver told me were due to tarrifs? I don't know, could've been customs? It's likely to only get worse. Jim

I may have a set. I can send you dimensions tonight. Can you explain what you mean by "not long enough"? Are you measuring diameter?

When my pal Duane Johnson built the mid-engine Johnson-SAAB for us to autocross, i had the frame in my garage for a while. My neighbor came over to look at it. "Must be heavy, all that bar stock." "That's not bar stock. That's rectangular tubing." "Oh."

I'm looking for a new set for the Westfield. The current ones aren't really big enough for a 205/60-13 tire. Does anyone on this side of the pond make any? I looked at the ones from Kit Builders, they are not long enough. I need about 9-9 1/2 wide and 36 long. Not looking for carbon, they will be painted.