NSXguy

Since you have a standalone engine management system, it could be whole host of issues preventing start. Ecu/engine calibration/software, triggers being off, hardware or electrical wiring. If you’ve never done this before and picking up from an “unfinished” project it’ll be a steep learning curve. if your car/chassis is an 83, then it is of the same vintage as mine(confirmed by examining your picture link). Likely started life with a ford Kent 1600 xflow, 4spd box and non ford/ital/marina live axle in the back. The PCD confirms this. there’s a considerable amount of work already done towards the efi conversion but looks like lots still left. it may have other changes not readily evident from the photos but at a glance: -fuel tank is upgraded(good thing given the switch to efi) -front suspension is heavily changed to allow for camber adjustment. ARB has also been modified as a result - horizontal engine brace is square stock; should be round. - different brake master cylinder setup lastly, you’ll want to confirm what box and rear end is currently installed. I would hope (expect) that they have been upgraded as the 4spd Type 2 and standard rear likely won’t cope with the output of this engine package at all or for long.

if you got the car to run, albeit rough, I would suspect the pump is OK. Whenever I pick up a car like this(classic or used); no matter what the previous owner states(especially if not verifiably documented) I would replace all consumables/wear- plugs, filters, cap/rotor if equipped, tstat, water pump if car has been sitting long. They’re cheap and It’s critical for me to baseline a car so I can maintain going forward; it’s been my experience personally and helping others that the one or two things you don’t replace are the very ones that will leave you stranded on your “new” car when you least expect. Relay/Fuses- can locate relay even without diagram- there will likely have one for fan, horn, pump, injectors, coil(s). Once you locate the cluster of relay and fuses, quick process of elimination to remove each one and map which deactivates what. (Same applies for fuses btw if no manual on hand) Physical components- as far as physically id’ing filter/pump. Just trace the fuel line from the fuel rail back towards rear end and you’ll find them. Easier to do with car in the air but can do from above if you have access to tunnel and a removable boot section to access rear end area. If you don’t see pump in-line, then it’s in the tank. Typically a submissive pump will have a filter on unit and there will be another external serviceable filter in line between tank and rail.

Efi conversion on a Kent / Crossflow is project, among others that has been on the docket for me but just haven’t had the time allocation to bang it out. It’s a really nice upgrade if you’re not a purist and appreciate better driveability/road manners and “reliability”(I would probably call it increased vehicle up time). i’m Currently doing a dry sump conversion on my xflow. If I get it completed early enough, I will likely do the conversion- don’t want to risk car not being ready for the driving/track season. I would say If you’re fairly technical, then it’s pretty straight forward and doable from the hardware standpoint; the tuning bit has a learning curve if you’ve never done. If you’ll have someone else tune then get that squared away before you commit to the conversion and make sure said tuner is comfortable with the software you will be using- sometimes the hardware suppliers like Jenvey may offer an all in one solution that includes remote tuning after hardware install. It’s better than nothing but may leave some performance and driveability improvements on the table. I was pretty much going to source my own bits but if you buy a kit, then that simplifies the process. anyway, some high level points to consider: fueling: in essesnce, the fuel system will need to be upgraded from a low pressure to a high pressure one. Few ways to accomplish. Lift pump, surge tank, high pressure pump to rail is one way. Some just use one high pressure pump after tank, but might be prone to surge depending on driving situation. Install Inline filter as well. Then decide if you want return or return less. Trigger: you’ll need to mount a new trigger wheel(36-1, 60-2 etc) and crank sensor(webcon makes a kit) for precise timing control. If you want sequential spark you’ll need a cam sensor installed for signal( a bit more involved, not totally necessary; something I’ll likely do on mine) Ignition: you can keep your ignition system with dizzy if you’d like (based on your tuning and trigger choices). I’m assuming you’re already on electronic ignition at least. you can also decide to go wasted spark ignition using which is between dizzy and fuel sequential spark. Will need two coils for this, deleting the dizzy. Air: the throttle bodies will come with everything you meed. Sometimes you may need to purchase the tps sensor. (I suspect the Jenvey has all this covered). exhaust: you can keep your existing exhaust. I recommend you add a bung after the collectors for a wideband o2 sensor and tie it into the ecu to closely monitor afrs and for close loop corrections. Management: any competent ecu of your choice. wiring: Can start fresh here Or add circuitsto existing harness. New looms for fuel pump(s), crank sensor, tps, injectors, cam sensor and coil(s) if sequential etc. then tune, tune, tune!

100%… so many variables and while Past performance is not always a reliable predictor of future performance… I will say if one is open to truck life, I’ve been very happy with my fully optioned crew cab, 5ft bed Taco 🌮. Rock solid during my ownership (with standard regular maintenance only) and I suspect it will be so in another 10 years. it is very practical, roomy (re: 4drs), enough power (large displacement v6) yet fairly decent mpg, can run on 87, contemporary tech, Navi and creature comforts… I truly want for nothing 😌. Oh, and for all these reasons it holds its value pretty well, I’d say.

After an extensive (similar) search, I decided to send the coilovers from my Cosworth to Angelo from Anze suspension. He is highly regarded in the racing community here in the Tristate and recently relocated his shop to Florida.FYI- I had to source and send him the seals for my kit, but i'm sure he can sort you out. Give him a call. The website: www.anzesuspension.com Disclaimer- first time working with him but after chatting a few times i can tell he knows his stuff and supports many top tier racing teams/programs from my understanding.

pretty straightforward to test the purge valve specifically and check the entire evap system (components, wires and hoses) generally. I would confirm defective before replacing. it could be else something in the system. The purge device as stated earlier is simply a 2 wire solenoid (12v & ground), so can bench test with a spare battery and two wires to the solenoid terminals. if it passes, look for fault elsewhere. They can fail but it's easily a vehicle limetime item unless tank has been overfilled too many times in the past.

Really cool developmental progress on this tech. However, regarding implementing on a 7, i think it depends on the purpose (fit for use/fit for purpose), but overall i would think not an ideal fit for our cars, given Chapman's ethos... But it is possible to make happen if someone REALLY wanted to do it for coolness mainly. 1- Most 7 alternators at 45-60(?) amps don't put out enough power (watts) to drive the proposed unit. assuming the lower end of the SC power requirements of 1.5-2kw you'd need a larger (120-150a) alternator to drive it. They are available but will take some work to package(. Might also need storage for steady state/continuous supercharging (read more weight). all this may counter the gains of the SC boost. There are more efficient ways to get a lil bump in power (camshaft if one wants a bump in a particular rpm range) or even a little more "safe timing" if there's Hp on the table.

Sign me up! Looking forward to any year of track time in the 7️⃣ thanks @Croc 🫡🤝

The reason, as you have discovered is that the electrode went bad(try to find out why!) and by the photos something caused the center electrode to slide out from within the insulator tip and contact the side electrode. This will undoubtedly cause a misfire(no fire) condition as no gap for the spark and therefore no combustion in cylinder 4 which explains why the plug is black and sutty, the engine was shaking due to imbalanced harmonics and all that unburned fuel being introduced and igniting in the exhaust, thereby causing the loud pops and bangs you heard. I think your setup warrants further investigation to rule out positively the root cause of the issue. Assuming you don’t have an eye on afrs while running, how do the other plugs look? What are jets and carb setting(venturis, idles, emulsions, mains, float heights etc), ignition timing at WOT? With the 4speed boxes on early cats unwell he cruising sometimes on the main circuit at highway speeds so if ignition and afrs are off as the condition is held for prolonged periods something may give. You may not see that otherwise just driving around town or during momentary periods of WOT blasts. just some things to consider. -Dez

Signed up for Saturday. I haven't signed up yet for Friday but 90% sure i will make it.

The orientation was already established earlier in this thread. You’d only have had to compare the photo of the pump they sent you with the image I shared to see that their response was incorrect. These pumps (and all related variants) are not getting reinvented so the orientation has been the same since the early days.

Thats mint! Plans for it?

By the way, attached is a picture of an integral filter on a FF type racer for reference. -Dez

The mount you have is to be used on a Kent with 4/5 port dry sump pump (i prefer 5 port for ease) and remote oil filter housing. The intergral filter dry sump pumps don't work with the Kent in a 7 based care due to how the engine is supported as the filter is typically oriented such that it points towards the rear (gearbox); thereby fouling on the engine mount. However, they can (and often are) used on FF racers or similar along with the other vintage cam/timing cover mounted dry sump pumps. Hope that helps. Dez.

Must be the one Adam recently imported. Nice car and congrats! I’m in CT