ashyers

Have you synchronized the throttles and checked to see where the TPS setting is at idle. Since the map's using this setting as a reference a small change here can have significant results. May want to verify the fuel pressure is stable too. Assuming the above stuff is OK, if it's spitting back when snapping the throttle it may be a bit lean. You can try monkeying around with the accel pump function, but I've never had much success with this with a light car. Often if you play around with the base fuel map you can get a nice sharp response. Save the orig map, get the car up to temp. and then do some changes to the "surface" of the map that's used when you're snapping the throttle. You can likely get it working pretty well w/o even driving it, just don't go too rich that will lead to other issues. If you'd like you can send your fuel and ign maps my way and I'll take a look and see if there's anything I can suggest to help. Andy

https://www.sbdmotorsport.co.uk/app/uploads/2020/11/MBE9A4-PinoutIssue_F.pdf Looks to me like you're going to have to look at the maps and see how the various programmable functions are set up. I have an older MBE and the documentation in Easymap isn't too bad, but you have to dig a bit. What are you trying to catch while logging?

John, I thought they all had the alignment pins. The Ranger (2.3) and Transit (2.0) engines I have both do. It's weird how they seem to have common stock with different p/n's...UGH! I should have one in about a week and we can compare :). Andy

Sure looks like this one: 2L8Z-6019-AA https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-timing-cover-2l8z6019aa?c=Zz1lbmdpbmUmcz1lbmdpbmUtcGFydHMmbD0xJm49QXNzZW1ibGllcyBQYWdlJmE9Zm9yZCZvPWZvY3VzJnk9MjAwNCZ0PXp4MyZlPTItM2wtbDQtZ2Fz I may have to pick one up and see.

John, I'm curious about the front cover you're using. I still have the Ranger cover and at some point would like to replace it with a version w/o the fan pulley in the middle. Do you think the cover you're using will work on an older 2.3? If so do you have the p/n and source? Thanks! Andy

CarlB, If you take a photo I'm happy to compare to my '03 SV. Andy

Nice! I've had a '51 M37 for some years. It's as elemental as a 7, but as you say a bit heavier :). If you're looking at highway speeds you will need to deal with the transfer case. They don't enjoy RPM's much over 3000 RPM for extended periods, the heat gets to 'em. My cruising speed is 55 w/ 4:89 gears and max is ~ 60 on the governor. That's a bit less than 3000 RPM and the transfer case gets pretty toasty, but seems to do OK with MT90 in it. Have fun with it!! Andy

David, If you want to head over to the East Bay I'd be happy to do a leak down test. I still owe you for that fit test and ride some years back! I'm not familiar with the style valve seals the Kent motors use, but most are relatively easy to replace and inexpensive. Andy

David, If the car's been sitting for a while, you may have an oil ring that's sticking or the valve seals have turned to something akin to porcelain. Are all the plugs oily or just one? Andy

Glad to hear you have it fixed .

If you use Easimap you can check to verify you're covering throttle sites 0-15. If the orig. tune set the idle at site 0 then you just need to make sure you're getting to site 15 at WOT.

Looks like you're still starting at the same throttle site, so you should be OK to test things out. Does your map have throttle sites 0-15?

👍

Be careful changing the TPS position w/o looking at the map. You could end up in a new column for fueling and ignition and give yourself some unintended headaches. Since you can view the fuel/ign maps, see where the breakpoint is for idle and note it before you mess with the TPS. That way you can see what you can get away with in rotating the TPS and can reset if necessary. Remember the TPS baseline is a reference point for the mapping. Were you able to find the P/N for the current TPS and order one? (Edit: Looks like you did, please list the P/N for future reference )

I'm with Croc on this, don't mess with the mapping. I think your TPS is toast. Here's what I'd do: * Record the voltage value of the current TPS at closed throttle with the engine off so you can reset it's position w/o messing up the mapping, or install a new one in the correct position once you've determined if it's dead. * Pull the TPS and run it through it's paces on a bench with the DVOM to ensure it's the issue. * If it proves to be toast figure out what obscure vehicle Caterham chose to pull the TPS from and pick one up, hopefully at your local parts store. * Install the new TPS and reset the voltage at closed throttle to match the old TPS. Hopefully it's not the harness!!!!

That last log doesn't look good. There is a possibility the TPS is dropping off the low side of the sensor pads when the throttles are pulled closed decelerating. Check the TPS setting and try your test while pushing the throttles closed and see if you get the bad signal. If not I think you're looking at either a bad TPS or wiring. Is the TPS a standard street car part?

Log the TPS with the engine off and ECU on. A nice gradual sweep of the throttle give you a quick indication of the condition of the guts in the TPS. You shouldn't see any spikey data in the log. As far as soldering terminals, I'd strongly suggest you don't. Unless you're damn good the solder will wick into the wire, embrittle it and you'll induce a failure. Andy

I'd watch the TPS live with the engine off and see if you can cause it to go wonky while working the throttle. If you can, I suspect it has a dead spot.

The lock is standard. It's sold by these guys: https://www.gorilla-auto.com/cap-locks-cap-screws I purchased a set for some 16x7 wheels to get a key since the original owner lost the key.

"I can only assume no movement, but how can I know for sure?" If there is movement it will likely show up as galling/wear on the clamping surfaces. That would indicate a loss of clampload do to some part in the stack yielding.

jeffs, The TPS could be going downhill. That would cause the mixture to go bonkers. You could check the signal with a meter and see if you get a clean sweep from idle to WOT. Andy

Between the inner shell of the bushing and the bolt/washer/chassis.

Any signs of relative movement between the clamped surfaces?

jeffs, If you have an infrared thermometer you can check the header tubes to see if it's dropped a cylinder. A somewhat cruder method is to flick a bit of water on the tubes and try and determine if you have a cold one. In addition check the harness connection at the coolant temp sensor. If it's sending wonky values occasionally that will seriously mess up the fueling. What MBE/easymap system are you running? Andy

CarlB thanks for the help. Here's the magic tool I used. A bit of corrosion on the stud of the spindle bonded that sucker to the bearing quite well. I'm shocked how hard it was to remove. Needless to say it was reassembled with some antiseize. As far as the nuts, I machined some top hat bushings and used some 1/2-20 jet nuts I had on hand to replace the factory's set up. I replaced the factory spherical bearings with some NHBB bearings. These made quite a difference in the steering since they have low breakaway torque. One of my favorite parts of the car is the steering feel and it's now even better . Andy