ashyers

I’ve used Delta Camshafts in Washington. They’ve been good to work with. Andy

JohnCh, The coil on my Caterham is a Ford part. I'll have to find a P/N. It's the same as on a '92 2.3 I have. The coil add-liteness has appears to be different. For reference which is gen 1 and gen 2? Andy Added photos

JohnCh, Good catch on the coil pack. It's different than the one on my Duratec. I wasn't aware there were multiple generations for the wasted spark set up. I think you're right about the Ranger wires, the Ranger engine I have has the coil mounted in a different location than the engine in the Caterham. The XL1 wires that I found above appear to be for the same coil I'm using so the boots may be a no go. Andy

These look flashy :). https://xl1racesupply.com/products/custom-2-5-duratec-spark-plug-wires I'll check to see if I can see a P/N on mine when I get down to the garage. Andy edit: added photos

This may help: The cooling system on my car was a hodgepodge of hoses and tubes when I purchased it. I used the info in the post linked to fix things. I tossed probably 10# of hose and tubing and now the cooling system works just fine and is much simpler. Andy

Charlie, From what I hear in the videos it sounds like the timing is way off. It sounds like it's over advanced. Can you check the base timing with a light? It would be useful to see if that's correct, especially after the new ECU and Crank Sensor change. Andy

If you’re running antifreeze in the cooling system and you have coolant in the oil you should replace the bearings. Antifreeze will attack the bearings leading to failure down the road. Andy

Some of the mountain bike cables are more heavy duty. If you're replacing the sleeve too check the liner, there are some different ones with varying amounts of friction. Make sure you have slight play at WOT when up to temp and you foot pressing hard.

I'm not sure what the stock cable is, but when mine snapped (SBD ITB's) we drove it home with a shoelace and then visited a local bike ship. Shimano to the rescue . There's a variety of adapters available, some solder on, some clamp on. The better bike cables are pretty high quality.

I did something similar with my SV. Used a press and v block to bend the pedal so it works for blipping. I'll have to dig up the photos. At some point I want to bend the clutch too so I can fit a dead pedal. The pedal spacing is definitely a bit wonky! At least my feet fit in the SV ! Andy

SCse7en, If you're planning on using the 64012 lug nuts check the overall height to make sure they fit under the caps. I'm running them on Minilite style wheels with no caps. Andy

SCse7en, If they are a KN wheel like the 16' and 14' wheels I have they use a M12-1.5 thread. I just purchased some McGard 64012 nuts to go with the KN 14x6 wheels I picked up. The 16' wheels use a hub cap similar to those on your wheels and use an open ended buldge nut, I suspect it's made by Gorilla since the hub cap nuts/keys are. As far as inserts, the KN wheels I have do not have any. Andy

das76, Search “fuel AND tank AND gasket”. It’s a common issue. The gasket is from a Mini. I’ll see if I can dig up the P/N. I found a cork replacement at Rock Auto and installed it with fuel proof sealant. No issues since. Andy

What ECU are you running? I spent a bunch of time on cold start stuff to get it to work well. I don’t have an idle air bypass so it took some patience. Depending on what “knobs” you can adjust you should be able to get it to work.

Tim, Set the jets flush with the bridge and wind them out 2 turns from there. While you’re doing that check the fuel level. It should be very close to the top of the jet, but not spilling over. Adjust the float height as needed. Toss the pistons/needles/dampers back on and see if you have better results. You can always lower the jets to get it running and warm, then wind them in once up to temp. Andy

Have you tried watching your Throttle Index Map live? This may give you some insight. On the earlier ECU's this map determined the voltage/throttle site relationship. Maybe in the later ECU's you could configure it as a rising or falling setup???? Andy

Thanks!!!! The TD is quite a vehicle. 1930's technology for 1951 ! Andy

Here's the wheel info for the 16", 5 spoke wheels. 7Jx16 ET19

Something a bit different : https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/d/san-jose-1980-tiger-morgan-cc-volkwagen/7686327409.html

I agree with MV8. Maybe your carb sync is way out? Is one of the carbs returning to the stop while the other isn't? I'd take a real careful look at each carb's idle stops and see if things appear OK. In addition these carbs can hang if the carb's return springs are not adjusted properly or the shafts/bodys are worn heavily. As far as the jet nut not doing anything, ensure that you're actually changing the jet height and not just rotating the entire assembly. That can happen on the old SU's if you bottom the jet jut on the jet holder assembly. If your A series is running phenolic insulators make sure they aren't cracked and the gaskets are sound. They can lead to a big vacuum leak and all your tuning efforts will be a waste of time. Andy

"Unplugging the rear cylinder created no change in idle, however revving is even worse. I swapped coil harness and no change. Swapped coils between 2 cylinders - same behavior." You disconnect the coil to cylinder #4 the idle does not change. Seems cylinder #4 isn't contributing at idle and has an issue. You swap the coil harness and no changes. Either you have 2 identically bad harnesses or it's not the issue. You swapped the coils between 2 cylinders... You lost me here. Did you swap the coil of #4 with another cylinder and the problem followed the coil or #4 is still not contributing any power at idle with a different coil? Andy

papak, Is it possible you have an issue with the throttle sync leading to wacky temps at idle but OK running under load? Andy

John, It's not uncommon for the accel functions to be switched off in light vehicles with ITB's. I monkeyed with it a bunch back when I worked on Atlantics and with the 7. I found that a good basemap was hard to beat. The accel functions often just muddied the water. Andy

There are some “custom” items that are very similar to my 2003 SV with a 2.3 Duratec. I suspect this car was built by the same importer, William Sours at Autocourse. He built some Duratec cars w/ Zetec chassis. Andy

John, If you rebalance the wheels it may be worth finding someone who will roadforce balance them. If properly done it works great! I’d do it for you if you were closer. Hunter did a great job on the roadforce machines, I suspect the math involved was a bit scary 🙂. Andy