ashyers

Spotted this on CL this morning: https://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/d/grass-valley-scca-nasa-race-car-parts/7621131523.html

John, Is it possible to cross it to a Bosch sensor? If so it's easy to find info on those. Andy

I’m interested in the filter! PM me when you have a chance. Andy

Note that the SAE viscosity scales for motor oil and gear lube are not the same! Check out the chart below:

John, Thank you for all the photos. It looks like the throttle shaft is in approximately the same position on my car, so the Ford tensioner won't fit without some hacking and whacking. Raceline or fabricating a new one looks like the best option at the moment. For future reference the Gates P/N is 38318. Andy

John, Thanks! That's a huge help. Did you notice it's made in Turkey? Wow. I'll take a look tomorrow and see if it looks like it will fit. Andy

MV8 and John, Thanks for the suggestions and photos. I included a photo of the setup the car came with. It has worked fine since carefully aligning it when we rebuilt the engine, but it's a bit wonkey and I'm going to swap it out when I get the opportunity. I'm really curious to see if the stock Ford self-tensioner would fit with my early SBD/Jenevy throttles and Arch chassis. John, do you know the P/N? Andy

I'm looking for options for an idler pulley that mounts above the water pump on a 2.3L Duratec with exhaust side alternator mounting. Currently I have a Ranger timing cover that has a different belt arrangement than the typical FWD version of the engines due to the fan drive pulley. I run a 50amp alternator on the exhaust side. I'm converting to a Brise mount on for the alternator and deleting the fan drive stuff. Here's what Raceline offers: https://www.raceline.co.uk/products/part_details.asp?categoryID=1&SectionID=20&VariantID=130 Does anyone have one for sale or any clever ideas that may work with factory stuff? I know they used a bunch of belt arrangements on the Duratec. Thanks, Andy

I ordered mine from these guys: https://www.thundersport.co.uk/products/ I provided the measurements they asked for and the hood fit perfectly. They were a pleasure to deal with and the hood is great! Andy

Hi All, Finally finished up with school yesterday and have some time off. If anyone in wants to come out and enjoy a nice drive in the East Bay Hills give a shout. It would be fun to get some of the local 7 owners together. I was thinking about leaving form my place in Oakland, doing a loop and then cooking some stuff on the grill. Andy

Love the Pinzgauer!

Dodge M37. In some ways it’s very similar to the 7, in others it’s the polar opposite 😄. There’s a debate in the household as to which is more “luxurious”.

I just made up some lines w/ Earls Pro-Lite 350 hose and Swivel-Seal hose ends. I've come to hate the push lock hose and Earls makes a decent product. I had no need for the SS braid so I thought I'd try the Pro-Lite hose and it was really easy to deal with. Papak, I have a few feet of -10 left . Andy

I'm running -10 lines for the high pressure pump-filter-block. The low pressure from the scavenge pump-cooler-pump are -12.

John, The original cap on my car used to rub the bonnet a bit. I picked up a factory plastic cap and faced the top surface down and it works fine. There's plenty of meat and once faced off the cap looks fine, except there's no lettering :). That car of yours is going to be BIG fun!!! Andy

Here you go: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/pts/7533151290.html Andy

One item that I don't believe mentioned here is the local pressure in the cylinder head pre-Tstat / Restrictor. Often the local pressure in the head will exceed the cap pressure. This helps prevent localized boiling around the exhaust valves which can cause all kinds of fun issues.

It is intrinsic to the master. Often issues pop up if it's been rebuilt and clearances have not been maintained.

I'd suggest checking the timing of the fluid intake/return port. If the seal displaces a large amount of fluid before passing over the port it will create a jet of fluid in the reservoir. This may lead to some leaking. Pop the top and have someone depress the peddle while watching the behavior of the fluid in the reservoir. If you get a geyser you may have an issue. Andy

Glad you got it sorted. I keep a spare around since the nearest source for SBD iTB’s is in England. Hopefully yours is easier to obtain.

The TPS signal would bounce around as the connection went intermittent leading to wonky fueling. It was not as consistent as you describe, but it became worse with heat and different vibration levels (RPM's). I added an edit to my last post about the lambda sensor. Andy

Did you check the TPS when it was acting up? I had an issue with the TPS connector that would only raise its head when good and hot. If you can get a log when the car's acting up that could be helpful. Edit: Is your ECU unlocked? If so you could set it to open loop to help determine if it's the lambda sensor. This stuff is great for cleaning up connectors!!!! https://caig.com/deoxit-d-series/ Andy

You can try to gauge the amount of wear of the throttle shafts by feel or attempting to see the amount of leakage with some carb cleaner or gentle compressed air. As far as dumping the choke mechanism, be careful. some carbs flow worse without it and it screws up the jetting.

Depends on if the shafts are worn and what kind of bushings they run, if any, and how you're cleaning the carb. If I can avoid it I don't pull the butterflies. I don't know if that carb runs any shaft bushings, but some carb cleaners are not kind to them. If the shaft for the throttles is not wobbly and seals well I'd leave them be. Did you have a consistent idle and normally functioning idle mixture screw before you took the carb apart? If so the shaft is probably OK.

What were the pressures?