WestTexasS2K

better pick of Mojo lights

Mojo has flush mount LED tailights. Kevins has a bolt on billet set of LED. Kevins are much easier to install. The flush mounts have to be done while painting.

saw these on ebay with wheels http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Corvette-C6-stock-aluminum-Wheels-Hoosier-A6s_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1171Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem220393581356QQitemZ220393581356QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I think the Hoosier A6 is going to be your best bet. If you could get slicks then you would be better off, but I dont know of anyone that makes them in 17 or 18s.

I have an Ultralite and havent had this issue before. You might have a faulty PCV valve. What is the catch can attached to? Do you have catch can on the PCV valve line or the vent on the front of the valve cover? The hose at the front of the valve cover should be recirclulated back to the intake usually right behind the air filter. If your dipstick is blowing out then the engine is getting pressurized. One problem that I have experienced before and I know a few others have as well. Usually during auto X but it has happened to me on the track before. When you have the engine above 8k and you get out of the gas and make a very hard right hand turn. You can suck some oil into the intake past the PCV valve and it will smoke like a mosquito machine and lose alot of power it will clear up after a few min. The cause of this problem is the engine really pumps large amounts of oil to the head and cams to engage the VTEC system. When you get of the throttle suddenly all that oil about 1.5 qts is still up there. Combine that with a high G load during a turn and a big vaccum shift it can suck up enough oil to make you worry. A catch can on the PCV valve line will solve this issue. Some of the newer valve covers have a better shield built in them that reduces this problem.

Thanks for chiming in here Blaine. I tried to translate what we learned in your session at the 7s festival. I hope I wasnt to far off the mark.

We had a tech session at the SW 7s festival with Blaine from Cem Pec Co. He is an oil speacilist and does the testing and formulations for the company. It was a very interesting session. From what he says that over the years due to emissions requirements and direction from the auto makers they have cut the ZDDP down to 800 PPM which is Zinc and Phosphate. It is the main anti wear item in oils. They are allowed to have 1200 PPM in diesel engine oil since it is used mostly by trucks and heavy loads. His suggestion is to use an oil made for diesel engines in our cars 15w 40. If you are racing then he recommends using SAE 50w racing oil. Their company uses 2400PPM of ZDDP in its racing oil. They have extensive history in tractor pulling community as well has some Top Fuel drag racing. He claimed that they were able to reduce bottom end rebuilds from every 5 pulls to over 90 hooks before bearings showed wear. This is very important if you have engines that contain flat tappet cams. New engine oils will often have camshaft failures in very short periods of time. At the very least a diesel engine oil should be used for break in periods. If you are loyal to a brand then call the manufacturer and find out the level of ZDDP in the product. He had many other interesting info on synthethic oil vs mineral based oils.

I would start with 18 psi in fronts and 19 psi in the rear.

I am pretty sure you still have the R160. The R180 is bigger. He probably just switched diffs with lower gear to help acceleration. There are 3:70, 3:90, 4:11, 4:56 units available. The 4:11 and 4:56 do give alot more grunt out of the hole. It will raise you cruising rpm by about 1k rpm but it isnt bad with the high reving Honda

I know Chuck Spera runs the R25A for Auto X and track days. If it is really hot out they may start to get greasy about 15 min in. With a light car they hold pretty well.

Those are the correct sizes and offsets. We also are using the STI so I am unsure if the hub centric size on the standard rear end. Kevin had no issues fitting the rear with the standard center bore, but Kevin had to have the front wheels bored out more. The front wheel had the tapered front hub so be carful with your measurements. You most likely only need the inside portion of the wheel machined if at all. The importer for the US is 909 947 0114.

What kind of tires are you going to be using. Usually with a bias ply slick you dont need alot of neg camber. Usually no more than 1 degree. You might want to consult your race tire manufacturer for suggestions on max camber. 2 degrees seems excessive to me.

Rotors on the Ultralite should last you for years of track and street driving. My car had a little bit of a surging at times as well I never did figure out exactly why it did it. If I applied just a little more pressure it would quit.

17x9 wheels below 20lbs are going to be very expensive. There are a few out there like Rays or Volks Engineering they are in the 18lb range but are close to 1k per wheel. Team Dynamics wheels are very nice and are a good price. Maybe even better now with the exchange rate. They are made in the UK. I have the number for the importer in CA he is easy to deal with. He might have to order them if he doesnt have the size or color you want it typically takes 6 weeks.

My first set of wheels were 5 Ziegen. I liked them as well. They came from Japan and they were a little hard to get. They did make some in that size too. I did try the Edge website. I cant get it to come up either.

Oh forgot Rota makes nice looking wheels and they are very affordable. They have several makes in the 5x100 17x8 sizes. http://www.rotawheels.com/wheelcatalog.asp

try http://www.edgeracing.com it has a few wheels that will work. Enkie has pretty good selection that will fit. Flik is one that I have used before they are affordable and weigh about 17lbs. Team Dynamics 1.2 wheels are available in Ultralite sizes here is a link http://www.teamdynamicsracing.com/pro-race/Pro-race12.htm These are good quality wheels. Kevin has these and I was going to use these until Kevin confinscated mine for his race wheels . I ended up buying Enkies because they were on sale. You can call Tire Rack as well and tell them you have an odd car. They will look wheels up for you by size and offsets. They will usually make you sign a waiver that says you are responsible for the sizing and they will not allow return unless they are defective.

It is very nuetral if the tire pressure and alignment is correct.

I think tire wear is not an issue with a 7. The tires will be hard and useless before you wear them out. I put 500 plus laps on RT 615 and 4k miles of street driving in a year and they showed very little wear. That was my experience with the REO1R as well. I have also used the Yokahoma AD07 all performed well but the RT615 worked best for my driving style. RA1s are a good option as well. It will be stickier than the above tires but it will be possible to wear those out if you track your car very much.

I am not aware of anyone using them. I think I would go with the Falken RT615 over the Bridgestone. If I were to use a Bridgestone it would be the RE01R

Bob you can go to http://www.dpcars.net and read all about the development of the car. I have been reading on it for about 2 years. He has an Aeril Atom that has a motorcycle based V8 as well that is running but all the bugs are not sorted yet. He is an engineer and makes cool stuff but it takes him along time to complete stuff. I dont know that I would put any money on a car until he delivers a few. He starte off with a Hyabusa powered Westfield a few years ago.

Jon great job the car looks great. What power train did you go with? What was the final weight?

GTM is a good looking car. I think it will take about 50-60k to complete the car. I really like the FF 33 Ford roadster that they are now making. It is a 33 Ford hotrod that has road racing suspension and is suppose to be a real terror on the track. It has a tube space frame much like a 7.

It will depend on how the car was origanally was prepped. If it has a factory paint that is not peeling and just needs fresh color you can color sand it with 4-600 grit paper. Prime any chips then block out the primer then repaint. I would paint the base color on the whole car then tape off center stripe apply color then clear the whole thing. You will need to apply more clear on the tape edges, but be careful it will tend to develope drips and runs on that edge. This will allow you to block the clear then buff out to a brillant shine and bury the tape edge. If the car has bare aluminum then you will need to sand with 180-220 grit and apply an etching primer. Then you will go back and apply and epoxy high build primer on top of the etching. I would highly recommend using a quality automotive paint. You can get cheaper brands of paint from NAPA or from a local paint store. Paint supply stores will usually carry a PPG prduct and then a cheaper brand. If you have no experience painting you might consider finding someone that will spray it as a side job. You can easily spend 800.00-1000.00 on materials that is assuming you have the proper spray equipment and prep tools and supplies. You could proabably have it professionally painted for 2000.00.

Well I dont know that I can completely agree with some of the comments. The Dodge Neon SRT4 is a very quick car. The factory has a dealer upgrade that makes it a true monster. You can get it in stage 3 that will put down 380hp and even comes pre wired from the factory with methonal injection for higher boost. Kevin and I have been witness to these cars flat out flying around the track. We got our butts handed to us in the first 2 years of 1 lap with lightly modified SRTs. The Chevy Cobalt SS is a heck of compact car as well. Easily upgraded with over the counter performance parts that will out near 400 hp. It has limited slip diff and a very stiff chassis. Put springs and shocks on it and it is a rocket. I bet you could hang with most stock Corvettes if not out right embarras them. The Pontiac Solstice and Saturn Sky are very fast and easily upgradable as well. I think there are some pretty good choices for compact performance cars. I realize this letter was addressed to ford that doesnt really have any performance compacts.