bball7754

My Caterham has a spacer/adapter for the knob. It fits over the T9 shift lever, and has a larger thread for the knob than the lever itself. The knob itself is "rubber", and looks like it came from the Merkur/Sierra.

Mike - You beat me to it. MichaelD's generosity definitely took a bit of the sting out of loosing my engine. And, it was interesting how driving his Seven was the same as driving mine - but also very different. And not just the additional power. Thoroughly enjoyed my two sessions, although when the engine started sputtering in the first session I was bit nervous. Then I noticed the fuel gauge was on "E". That Zetec sure can drink it in. Steve

I'll be driving down from north NJ on Friday. Based on my experience last year, assume I should avoid the NJ Turnpike and come down on the GS Parkway? Looks like the construction is still going on. Steve

Tom - Thanks. Passing rules are different between the two Intermediate groups. Looks like we can pass anywhere. Steve

Anyone know which of the Intermediate groups we're in? I'm thinking probably the Yellow? Steve

Mike - Still haven't pulled the trigger on a video camera purchase, so would be interested in your loaner offer. Should be arriving mid-afternoon on Friday. Steve

Mike - I think it had been leaking at the front into the bell housing for quite some time. Believe the rear leak was relatively new, and was likely because all three of the left side bolts had come loose. Tom - I haven't done my yearly polish yet, but have been debating whether to try and squeeze it in before NJMP. We'll see. Steve

Ok, good news update. Decided to use a local shop that has done lots of work on a friends Lotus 11. Before I dropped it off, pulled the bell housing off and found that there was no gasket between the gearbox and spacer. So, reason for front leak found. Left the gearbox at the shop on Monday, received the gasket/seal kit on Tuesday, and picked up a "resealed" gearbox this afternoon. So, install tomorrow, drive on Sunday. Steve

Pierce manifolds and Weber Carbs Direct are good sources for Weber parts. I've purchased parts from both. http://www.piercemanifolds.com/ http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/ The Caterham linkage is simple and, I think, unique. It's not listed on their parts site, but an email to their parts department should answer whether it's available. Working from memory, your spec's look the same as what's on my Crossflow. Previous owner was in Denver, and it came with the 115 mains. The only change I made was to go to 120 mains. I'd start with checking that the carbs are in synch first. I also read somewhere that 90% of carb problems are electrical. Steve

First, let me correct the side that the drip is on. It's the left rear, not the right. Tightened up 4 of the 6 - couldn't figure out a way to get to the top two, including using u-joints and extensions. But, both the middle and bottom left were loose. Used 35 ft lbs, and the right bolts were fine, the left took maybe a quarter of a turn or so. But - it didn't help. It's leaking around the middle bolt between the alloy bearing plate and gearbox. I could wipe away the fluid, and then watch it reaccumulate on the gearbox. Suppose it's possible it's running down from around the top left bolt, but I couldn't get my hand up there to feel for fluid. So, definitely coming back out now. But after looking at the instructions to get the alloy bearing plate off, I think it's over my pay grade. Opinions on whether a good local transmission shop (assuming I can find one) would be able to replace the rear gaskets and seal? Shipping the gearbox and extension half way across the country seems like a more difficult solution approach than should be needed. Steve

Bob - In case you can't tell, at this point I'm not positive of anything. Appreciate your input, and will pull the tunnel cover off tonight and see if I can more accurately find the source. Don't think it's the speedo connection, as it's on the other side of the trans and I didn't see (in my quick check this morning) any evidence of it traveling across the trans. Also don't think it's the rear seal the propshaft runs in, for pretty much the same reason - no evidence of fluid running down the bottom of the tailshaft housing. Should be fun to try and tighten those six bolts with the trans in the tunnel. Steve

The plot thickens. Thought I would try to confirm that the leak was at the front of the trans. Put the car on jack stands, wiped down the bottom of the trans, started the engine and ran it till it warmed up - including revving it. Looked under the car, and there was a nice 6-8" puddle - at the rear of the trans. The drip was on the left hand side of the trans at the rear corner, but definitely on the trans side and not on the extension housing. I'll have that gasket and seal in my kit, so guess I can replace them, although removing the extension seems more complicated than removing the bell housing. I've also read that excess fluid will come out the breather - but confess I didn't notice a breather while I had the trans out. By any chance is it at the right rear of the trans? Haven't pulled the tunnel cover yet to take a look.

Gasket and seal kit ordered from Quantum Mechanics. I'll start on engine/trans removal tonight.

Good news, I think, relatively speaking. Called BGH over in the UK this morning, and had a long conversation (30 minutes or so) with .... someone, maybe Brian? Anyway, my major concern was the vertical play in the input shaft. Per BGH, this is totally normal - it's how it's designed. He also said that, at least in the past, Caterham didn't put a gasket between the gearbox and bell housing. The selector shaft apparently acts, somewhat, as a pump, and with no gasket a leak can develop between the box and bell housing. It's also possible that the front oil seal is worn. So, my plan now is to pull everything back out, then replace the front oil seal, the CRB nosecone gasket, and replace/add the box to bell housing gasket. Prior to the engine rebuild I was not experiencing any clutch slippage, so don't believe the CRB nosecone lip seal is leaking. Wasn't aware of that seal, and haven't seen it listed, but maybe I should also replace that one? I think the box itself is fine. Anyway, my hope is that all of this will work, and I'll be at NJMP in 3+ weeks. Steve

Mike - Thanks for the lead on Midatlantic Caterham. I'll give them a call tomorrow, as well as Quantum Mechanics (http://www.quantumechanics.com/qm-htm/home1.htm). Tackling a rebuild of the T9 is more than I want to take on, or feel comfortable with. Plus, it would probably take me 6 months to do. I'm also actually considering just replacing the gearbox. BGH has a long first Road and Track box that doesn't seem totally unreasonable. More than a rebuild, but I'd get better ratios, etc. Shipping wouldn't be cheap, but probably worth a call/email to investigate. Not sure they have them built sitting around, though.

When I pulled my Crossflow for a rebuild, the inside of the bellhousing was an oily mess. The smell test didn't indicate transmission fluid, and I decided that it was engine oil (being apparently somewhat in denial), and cleaned it up. Prior to reinstalling everything, I did notice that the gearbox input shaft had quite a bit of play in it - it wiggled up and down more than I would have expected. But, remaining in denial, I put it all together and reinstalled. Started the engine up for the first time yesterday while it was still up on jack stands. Noticed that there was trans fluid around where the clutch arm comes through the bellhousing. Hmm... Went for the first test drive, and when I got back there was trans fluid dripping from the bottom of the gear box. Appears to be coming down from the spacer between the box and the bell housing. It's possible I overfilled the gearbox slightly, but would that really account for this? I have a new gasket for the CRB guide, but obviously didn't install it. I also understand that fluid can leak from around the selector shaft that comes through the bellhousing. Thoughts? Anyone know where I can have a T9 rebuilt - quickly? Steve

I'm partially able to justify the 1000 mile tow by visiting my family in NJ (I'm a native). But I would make the trip regardless. Steve

These would be brand new. My current RA1's are pretty much down to the "slick" level. Maybe it was the track surface, but at COTA in Austin my tires were squealing more than usual, and didn't seem to have much grip. I'd read somewhere that tires should be replaced after 5 years, so I'm thinking maybe it's time.

After 5 years, I think it's time to replace my Toyo RA1 track tires. The set I have started out as full depth (one of the reasons they are still alive - and let's not talk about other possible reasons having to do with my track speed ). I thought I'd go with having the new set shaved to either 6/32" or 4/32". Any recommendations or experience with dealers regarding the quality of their shaving? Thanks. Steve

Well, I think it's a Bosch. Can't find the word "Bosch" anywhere on it, nor on the receipt from it's purchase. But the numbers are: 0 120 488 176 And if you Google "Bosch" and that number, it returns an alternator. Interestingly, the Bosch website did not match on the parts search using that number. The main body is roughly 5" in diameter. Hope this helps. Steve

Total "bolt in" with no re-wire. I took it to a local place to be rebuilt (the shaft had a huge amount of vertical movement), and they basically said forget it (after they took it all apart), they happened to have a new replacement unit. Steve

I replaced the alternator on my Crossflow about 3 years ago. I believe it's a Bosch, and is essentially the same size as what I had. It definitely does fit the categorization of "smaller". I'll get the specfic model info tonight and post it here. Steve

So, sounds like it's based on the $ amount. Tom - Had the Crossflow rebuilt, so with the engine out thought I should replace the clutch. Hadn't had any issues with the clutch, but what the heck. Also replacing the rubber engine mounts. I'm picking up the engine on Saturday, after which I'll post the dyno sheet. While not impressive compared to Duratec's, etc., I'm happy with the results.

I recently made a parts purchase directly from Caterham in the UK, which I've done multiple times. Yesterday I received an invoice from FedEx for "Customs Duty" and an "Advancement Fee". This is the first time this has happened. It may be due to the dollar size of the purchase, but really don't know. Anyone else been charged these types of fees on international purchases? Steve

I'm not sure I'd put too much stock in the Caterham hp estimates. My Crossflow was originally the same spec as yours, and then was upgraded to the 150 hp spec by changing the cam to the Kent 244. I did a dyno day about 5 years ago, and I think I had 109 at the rear wheel. I missed both a BDA and a BDG that Craig Chima was selling, so opted to go ahead and "refresh" my Crossflow. Curtis Farley, who is a fairly well known Formula Ford engine builder, is doing the work. The only major component upgrades are forged pistons and SCCA SCAT crank. The crank should allow me to comfortably move my redline from 6500 to 7000. Already have double valve springs and roller rockers, but the valve springs are being replaced. Some head work had been done, but Curtis said it was like they got 75% done and then stopped, so he's "cleaning up" the head. Valves are slightly larger and, in Curtis' words "kinda slick" - although he didn't give me any details as to why. He thinks the compression ratio was below 9.5, but expects it to be slightly over 10 when he's done. No surprise here, but Curtis hasn't/won't make a prediction of hp. I'll be happy with a true 150 at the crank. 175? From what I've read on Blatchat, it's possible. But I think it's also expensive. For starters, a steel crank - which runs around $2-2.5k (the SCAT crank is less than half that). Haven't given up on converting to a BDA at some point, but this will tide me over for a bit. Steve