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Doug - After reading your personal history, it's clear this project is in the right hands. My Crossflow is about due for a refresh, if you're still taking on side jobs. Steve

Thanks. Engine is black, it's still in the car, and just a touch up.

I'm considering doing a touch up on the paint of my Crossflow, mostly on the exhaust side of the head. Looking for advice regarding: 1) Rust - remove? Use something like POR 15 which you apply over the rust? 2) Paint recommendations. 3) Brush vs. spray? Thanks. Steve

I started to watch, but I'm such a non-fan of Bahar that I couldn't get through the interview. Believe he's totally burned his bridges in F1, and is not a popular person in the pits. I'm still betting on Tony Fernandez buying Lotus for pennies on the dollar after Bahar runs it into the ground.

Some thread resurrection, as I'm also in the market for a HNR system. I'm leaning towards the R3, which is now a Simpson product, partially because anecdotal info from several forums indicates that it may do a better job with side and angle impacts. My other concern with going with the HANS is the install in the Caterham. Per the HANS quick start guide (http://hansdevice.com/Quick-Start-Guides), the inner edges of the shoulder belts shouldn't be more than 3" apart measured at the anchor points. Having 3" belts would help, but I don't think the standard Caterham anchor points would get you there. In the UK, participants in the Caterham race series need to go to Arch and have new anchor points installed in the chassis. FWIW, Pegasus is currently offering a 10% discount on the R3. Steve

The latest issue of Remarque (Lotus Ltd. magazine) has a '63 Elite Series II listed in the classifieds for $18,500, but..... it's a project car. Rolling chassis with inventoried parts. It does have the original Coventry Climax engine, and the numbers match. All I'm lacking is money, space, skill, and knowledge - listed in no particular order. The desire is there, though. Steve

Looking for suggestions on who to use/how to have the alignment on my Caterham checked/corrected? The garage where I have my state safety inspection performed was going to put it on their alignment rack to get under the car, but the track was too narrow and it wouldn't fit on the rack. I'm not really comfortable taking it to the local tire shop, and there aren't really any race shops (at least that I've found) here in St. Louis. Thanks. Steve

One was for sale on eBay. http://throttleyard.com/2011/11/09/mad-maddox-twin-jet-powered-custom/ http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230697392979+&viewitem=

Here is his other post on driving the R300 at the Ring: http://bridgetogantry.com/2/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=245:onboard-caterham-r300-superlight-nurburgring&catid=56:ring-reviews&Itemid=300091

Weehawken. I read about this possibility a few weeks agon on Joe Saward's F1 blog. Here is a link to a short article about it: http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052970204618704576645651553992120.html

Not sure where you're located, but here is a 711M listed on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/Ford-Cortina-Lotus-7-Formula-Ford-Kent-Crossflow-1600-711M-Engine-?cmd=ViewItem&hash=item4aafd08355&item=320777257813&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr Steve

Believe the kit for that picture is for a 160-170 HP spec, which I'm pretty sure the standard crank can take. Dave Bean also has BDA/G/R (etc.) parts and kits, as do these guys: http://www.blueskyracing.com/ Can you tell what this Crossflow owner dreams about? Now, all I have to do is win the lottery. Steve

Dave - Did you see this post? http://www.usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?p=57325#post57325

I purchased Ben's dad's Caterham, so always felt loyalty to RMSCI. That loyalty was only strengthed by the number of lengthy phone conversations with Ben troubleshooting my Seven. I've made several parts purchases from CatUSA, and while a different experience, eventually things have worked out. Steve

Ian - Think you're referring to these? https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=3544 They do carry a gasket for the cast covers. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=3543 Steve

Maybe they will have a Birkerham (Caterkin?) love child, with a Duratec on out of sync Weber's that leaks oil. Steve

Mike - I think you've angered the Crossflow gods. Some type of sacrifice may be in order.... Seriously, though, congrats on the purchase, and will be interested to read more comparisons. Steve

Like Kit Kat, I'm also a trailer newbie. My original plan was to run my straps through the wheels and attach the tie downs that way. Problem is, I can't fit the d-rings on the straps through my 13" mini lites. Front is pretty straight forward - use the A-arms. But the rear is not as clear. Thought I would use the Dedion tube on my Caterham, but the brake lines are right where I would run the straps. Not real comfortable strapping over the brake lines. Currently I'm using the rear most attachment point of the A-frame. So, are there other Caterham owners out there strapping the back down and not using the wheels? If so, where/how are you strapping down the back? Thanks. Steve

If it makes you feel any better, I spent about $200 having Aldon change the curve on my distributor, then when I thought it was lost in the mail spent another $215 or so on the Pertronix. So I've invested about $400 in distributors - and the one I'm using is borrowed!! Ah, the joys of the Crossflow.

Sabbot - I have the same "bounce" with my timing light, but have it at idle on up. Just have a Lucas Sport coil. Would also like to know the cause. Towbone - It's a stock distributor. Actually bought it from Summit Racing - they had a good price. I emailed Petronix support asking about the advance curve, and they answered with this, which seems like different info than what you've received:

Yep, part noD190509 (side exit, no vacuum advance). Unfortunately, it's still sitting on the workbench. I had a brain cramp when I put it in and didn't connect the low voltage leads. Tried to start it and flooded it. Connected them, and then had a heck of a time getting it to start. Put my borrowed one back in, and it's been too hot to work on it since. If you buy it and get the Flamethrower II coil, it (the coil) won't fit in the ignition coil bracket for the Lucas coil. Ask me how I know. Steve

Twobone - You might want to find out which Aldon model they are selling you. The "unleaded" version is notorious for having a poor advance curve. I sent my Aldon back to them to be recurved. Gave them my basic specs (primarily the cam I have) and they changed the curve. Some searches on Blatchat should give you plenty of info on the issue. Unfortunately, since it's been back I've had other issues with it, but they were still good to work with. Steve

Did the same thing at an Autocross about 4 years ago. Was in the process of emptying the boot when someone came up and started a conversation. I got distracted, and didn't remove my jack kit. I already had a few dents in that same area, but added a few more. I've come to accept them as providing my Seven more character. Misery loves company? Steve

The Pertronix was/is my backup. I sent my Aldon to England to have the curve changed, as what I had was known to be poor. The modified Aldon now causes my tach to bounce all over the place. I've replaced the battery, ignition and HT leads (both were due anyway), changed the low voltage connectors, and confirmed the alternator output. None of them fixed the tach issue. Have another Aldon on loan from a UK Caterham owner who has a spare. With that distributor installed, I have no tach problems. The Pertronix was purchased as an alternate when I thought that my distributor was lost in transit to the UK. See, I told you it was a saga. So, I have a distributor with, theoretically, the correct advance curve for my engine and specs. But don't have a working tach with it installed. And have a Pertronix that let's the tach work, but not sure about the advance curve. Am I having fun, or what?

Ian - Doesn't it really open up an additional 20 degrees between 1000 and 4000? It's at 5 degrees at 1000, and 25 at 4000, which seems like an additional 20 degrees. I had asked for the static advance, but all they gave me was a chart with the advance starting at 5 degrees at 1000 rpm. Is it really possible that the static advance is less than 5 degrees, and that the advance has actually opened up X degrees by 1000 rpm? Steve