bball7754

I have a set of Magnecor for my Crossflow. https://www.burtonpower.com/magnecor-ht-ignition-lead-set-ford-x-flow-side-entry-8-5mm-mes01s-85.html Burton also has their own brand for about half the price. Exchange rate is pretty good right now, and I’ve been surprised (in a good way) at the shipping price. Steve

So I think the issue with the replacement rubber washers was that I over tightened and compressed them, which led to them disintegrating. I’m not totally comfortable with only relying on the friction of the nylock preventing the nut backing off. As long as the unthreaded length is slightly longer, I can test fit just the plate and add one or two thin washers to allow me to tighten the nut, but not compress the rubber washers. The original washers were less compressible than the rubber washers, and were more able to withstand my incorrect overtightening.

MV8 - that is the setup, incorporating the large machined hat. So the length of the unthreaded portion of the bolt shank should be slightly less (1/16th ish?) then the total length of the washers, bushing, and the plate. This will allow the nut to be tightened against the non-threaded portion with minimal compression (almost none) of the rubber washers, allowing them to retain their full dampening properties.

I have been looking to identify and source these washers off and on for several years. They are on my Mallock, and are used on either side of a large bushing inside of a boss on the chassis, to which an aluminum plate is bolted and used as part of the engine mount. They seem to be made of some type of fibrous material, sort of fabric like. They are finally disintegrating, and the reinforced rubber replacements didn’t last 3 race weekends. I know there are some excellent Google researchers here, with more knowledge and experience than mine. Engine is currently out, so now is the time to replace. An aeronautical engineer came up with this design when he built a replacement chassis, in case that helps. A photo in situ, and a blurry photo to give a sense of size.

With clamshells!!!

Based on the last photo, it looks like you bought Jerry’s WCM?

Still a definite maybe, but the probability has decreased. Those are the same dates as the last race of the season at the new Ozarks International Raceway. While Ozarks and International are not words normally associated with each other, the track is close (3 hours) and amazing. It’s 2 years old, 19 turns, and more elevation change than you can imagine. One of the most fun tracks I’ve driven. It even has a mini Eau Rouge. In Missouri!! Who’d a thunk it.

You were at Black Hawk last weekend, right? We talked, and I have the polished Mallock. Meant to suggest you post here, glad you found the site! Steve

Mike- thanks, although I think one Mallock is enough for me! 😊 There have been times when it felt like one was too much! Went to the New England Classics site (as I remember that dealership has an interesting reputation), and the write up said the 15 is the same as the 11 but with a deDion rear suspension. I’ll have to research that a bit. Another Mallock joined me at Black Hawk last weekend, and it was in theory an 11, but had the deDion rear.

Looks great, and love the Pirelli Cinturato CN36 tires!

Mike - These are two new additions to the storage lot where I keep my trailer. Interested in a new project? 😊

I joined in 2005, so was pretty confident of my history. 😊

Wasn’t/isn’t the screen name of one of the originators (or maybe THE originator) of the site SLNGSHT? He put a V8 into his Rotus.

The Webers are low pressure, 3-3.5 psi. More pressure overwhelms the floats. I’m confident the Facet is higher than that, hence fuel regulator. Do they still make that model? Any reason not to just get the same? Steve

@Croc Assume you’re following this? https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1975-bmw-3-5-csl/

That’s the weekend before the VSCDA race weekend at Road America. May not be an issue if the Mallock is not running by then….which unfortunately there is a high probability of based on it’s history. Or, I may do both. I’m a definite maybe. Steve

I have these and they work great. I don’t think a drop came out the last time I pulled the engine/trans. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lil-23400?seid=srese1&ppckw=pmax-tools&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpPKiBhDvARIsACn-gzAvDFlhzZ-752hhspUWB_0owmqtbHtC8kz1cAP99gF15rNj0WAsjbMaAhkNEALw_wcB

I’m getting a “Page not found” error.

Does that jack in the background lift the car high enough to get it on the stands? If not, how did you get it on them?

FWIW, I stopped fastening the bottom dzus fasteners about 10 years ago, and that includes lots of track sessions. YMMV. 😊 Steve

I read this yesterday, and thought it was old news. 😊. More detailed perhaps, but old. 😊

No real research required, the Chaparral 2 is burned into my brain from when I first saw it as the Cox and Monogram scale cars. This article resonated with me, and it even mentions the T70! 😊 https://www.hagerty.com/media/car-profiles/childhood-dream-realized-jim-halls-chaparrals-at-the-american-speed-festival/

This was on the Caterham FB page about a week ago. Needless to say, it made me think of your Seven.

Car 66 is, I think, clearly a Chaparral 2. The exhaust placement is accurate, although the actual pipes may have been longer. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaparral_Cars I think the intent of the painting was to show the evolution of race cars from 1944 to 1969, as CarlB stated.

I had roughly equivalent damage with an off at the track, and I just used colored duck tape (wing is BRG) until I could get a replacement. Steve