Lucky-7

Too bad you won't be able to make it... You could see the wheels and tires you sold me on the car! I'll be there tomorrow! I took my 89 Esprit for the LOONY Rendeavous on Friday and this morning I made the trip home to change cars and brought the Caterham back for tomorrow's event. Can't wait!

Mine is a 2018. I posted a picture of the back of the spindle and stay mount. I also took a pic of the hub looking through through the wheel. You're probably right about the manufacturer, but seems he has the AP 4 pot calipers.

Mine reads the same as yours. Doesn't seem to make sense. I've got the premium brake upgrade also. Anything bolted to the hub that could have been added?

My cycle wings are 8-1/2 inches wide and the tires are 8" wide. take a look at the stays and make sure they're not bent inward toward the body. I'm glad that was only a test fit because the direction of the tread is wrong. Lol. Had me scratching my head for a moment. hahaha

Did you just put that one wheel on there for a trial test fit?

Last one of the wheels.. The others are just "Eye candy"

I managed to get the car out of the garage in between rain drops... What a crappy summer so far....

Oh boy... yours stick out way more than mine. Mine are just about flush with the fenders. I'll get some close ups for you. one thing of note... my speedometer is of now. When it reads 65 I'm actually doing around 59-60. anyone have any tricks to straighten that out?

No it's not. It's a 2018 280s

I finally got some decent weather to get my 7 out with the new wheels and tires I got from you Seb. They look and drive fantastic. Thanks Again, Kenny Also a very funny pic of my car inbetween two pickups... LOL

Head on for the polo maybe. He hit head on into the left rear quarter of the seven.

I know they say it shouldn't be charging at over 10 amps and most of our alternators' are capable of putting out 40 Amps, but if I recall my basic electrical theory, they will only put out as much as needed. Therefore, if you are running your headlights, heater wipers etc. The alternator will meet the demand. If the battery is keeping a good charge it will be lower amps to the battery. We'll see.

I just bought and installed a Battery Tender by Deltran, 6.1 AH 360 CA Battery in "Ruby" today. 3.4 pounds $169.00. We'll see what happens. So many choices and input it gets confusing after a while.

The voltage should be around 14v even at idle. Sounds like you've got an alternator issue. The voltage regulators are internal so you there's not much you can do there. Take it out and get it tested. Hopefully you have a good old fashioned starter/alternator repair shop in your area that give it good look see.

The map is a cool idea. Facebook not so much. Never have never will.

Taken from Washington's DOL. Kit vehicles designed to look like older vehicles are called “replicas”. The make for replica vehicle is always “KITV”, regardless of the kit’s manufacturer. Using “KITV” as the make ensures the notation “REPLICA” appears on the title and registration as part of the series/body. In addition, the series/body for replica vehicles must describe what the vehicle looks like (for example, 57 MG, 65 Cobra, etc.). Enter KITV for kit vehicles that are replica vehicles, regardless of the make shown on the MCO or MSO. For Kit vehicles that are NOT replicas, the make is as shown on the MCO/MSO or as determined by a WSP inspection (dune buggy, roadster, etc.). Enter the make as shown on the MCO or MSO for KIT vehicles that are NOT replicas, or enter the make determined by a WSP inspection (dune buggy, roadster, etc.) For street rods, the make is the same as the originally manufactured vehicle (Chevy, Ford, etc.). Our cars are technically a replica of a 1970 S3 Lotus 7

Another way is to register it as, say a 1967, or whatever it takes. I've seen posts all over the net as our cars being registered like that. As far as resale, anyone who wants to buy one knows these stories. And knows the real story behind them. I think that guy is yanking your chain. Go to the appointment loaded for bear with all kinds of examples of other cars registered like this. Chances are he'll back down. Explain how they are being shipped here all the time without this nonsense.

Here in PA it wasn't even brought up. It was built under what is called "Specially Constructed Vehicle". Can you do an "end around" and claim it is built as a "Street Rod" or Custom Built? After all technically you did build it yourself. I was always under the assumption that such a low production vehicle was exempt from all kinds of federal B.S. Not everything but some items.

Congrats Greg! Looked like a perfect day for a blatt.:driving: I'm liking the silver and black on the sides. How'd it drive?

I had no issues with mine. I'm not understanding exactly what you mean. Did you cut the length of the blades?

Hi Greg, I don't know if you mounted your tail lights yet or not, but I've seen a lot of folks mount them with the yellow/turn signal to the outside of the car. I went the opposite and put the red (tail/brake to the outside. My reasoning was that there are no red (rear) or yellow (front) side marker lights on these cars vs. our newer federal cars. The way I saw it was, at least there would be some type of light glowing at the rear of the car from a night time side view, also, in the dark, the car appears almost a foot wider, as the red tail/brake lights are closer to the outside edges of the car, making them more visible from behind should there be a vehicle in between you and a driver who is antsy to pass. Just a thought.

Hi Greg, my idle was all over the place. Even with the new ecm. They told me that if I unplug the o2 sensor the computer will go to a default mode. I unplugged my sensor and it runs a lot better. No issue at higher rpm. I've got a Snapon scan tool. I have to read the codes through global generic OBD. I told Caterham I was getting a misfire code on cyl 1. And a cam position sensor code. With both the old and new ecu's. They didn't seem concerned. Kinda bothers me... There was a couple other codes, but it said manufacturer specific. I should contact them again.

I went round and round with Caterham over this, adjusting the hair trigger idle screw to the proper voltage etc. The idle would keep creeping up and up on its own, and surging all over the place. Driving it made you look like a complete idiot. Galloping all over the place. You couldn't ease the clutch and throttle without both jerking you back and forth. They finally sent me a new ecm, but I'm still wondering... because it only runs good with the O2 sensor disconnected, and I keep getting a code for a cam position sensor "A" bank 2 and misfire on cylinder #1. Even after the new ecm. Very puzzling... Anyone know which is Bank 2? Exhaust or intake? Anyone know what the voltage output/signature of the cam sensors are supposed to be, so I can test it?

Looking good Greg! I smeared a ton of that stuff on my wings, totally encapsulating the stay and bonding it to the wings. Probably too much, but what the heck, the tubes were open. They feel as if I could lift the car off the ground with them. LOL On my fuse box, they put the flasher where the starter relay was supposed to go, and consequently fizzed them both. Took a while for me to figure that one out. Their wiring diagrams are little more than build sheets for the wiring harnesses. Very confusing, here's to hoping you'll never need one:cheers: Make sure you check the engine oil. I never would thought it would've shipped full, but mine came with oil in it, same as the trans, but the diff was empty.