Vovchandr

You know how all great aviation failures are a combination of multiple events gone wrong? Well I'm discovering that besides my out of control revving yesterday I've discovered that my throttle is getting stuck as well. Different symptom different fix. Occasionally upon coming to a stop my throttle would need a hard push on the pedal to "break lose". Yesterday driving home my throttle would get stuck while accelerating and I would have to hard blip the throttle to let it settle back down. This is on a brand new cable/housing. I've taken the whole thing apart and measured out the location where it gets tight/stuck. It's right above the exhaust. Compared it to the old throttle cable I replaced and it would get tight right around the same area (marked with tape). Not sure what my current solution would be for this. Cable seems fine in a new housing. These have a plastic liner inside to help them glide easier being motorcycle cables. I'll either have to have a cable set without the liner or find a better routing. As of right now since only replacement I have on hand is with plastic liner I'm going to try a slightly different route.

Didn't seem that crazy to me. That's close to what a set of Just Add Lightness taillights cost when you order with the mount and flasher. It was pretty easy to justify as a safety item because it's a lot cheaper to deal with compared to being rear ended. At least that's what I told myself...

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How much did they ask to ship?? The lights are about ~$408 USD without VAT + conversion fee.

Very cool. You're likely the first US customer.

I second similar ^ I don't know the possibilities of achieving this with a 5 speed but my 6 speed is very well balanced as long as you're not worried about crazy top speed. I personally gladly make that sacrifice. My first goes to almost 50mph and then very short gears after

Congrats! The dark side has its shining moments. I see Croc has finally worn you down. Any particular things that you look forward to in comparison to the Westfield? Any down sides other than price? What power are you shooting for in a build?

Upside down on one side of course Is there any other manufacturer that just flips the lights on one side instead of making a new part? That's certainly true to the ethos.

Video posted above. Even shows them in limited action towards the end. Requires making hole bigger and two new holes. I never hated the old lights. To me they are part of the car but I'm sure some people hated when carbon fiber dashboards got introduced as well as they weren't true to the original ethos. I know a dealer in Europe, I believe in Germany, hated the original lights so much they refused to install them and always put in a pretty nice dual round setup. I wouldn't be surprised if an LED solution for an inhouse light was driven by EV future. Regular lights are far too much of an electricity sink to be allowed in a production EV car.

Another shot. Really wish they had a video. Also they are now featured item at the parts site if anybody wants them https://caterhamparts.co.uk/

Variety is neat

I'll look into it I've looked through most of the Pectel threads, but I'll consider reaching out in general as well. At a glance it appears ITB's in general were not a very common upgrade for the Focus community. Most went FI. I'm also in touch with Tom in regards to planning future tuning. Maybe I'll pick his brain on the matter as well. In the meantime, Borla/TWM got back to me with some interesting information There is no TPS adjustment on the ITB's. Confirmed. They also said that 10% voltage at idle and 90% at WOT are normal. 10% at idle I can see, injectors need to be firing at least some fuel without IAC to keep engine spinning. 90% at WOT as normal was surprising to me.

I think you're right. It should probably spike up instead of spiking left. I honestly have no idea what I'm doing and just doing the best with information I got. Pectel/DeskPro in general has very little information about it online so I'm poking around and texting things. I'll get further tomorrow. Information I got so far for Pectel/DeskPro was saying I shouldn't flash new maps with ecu voltage being less than 12. I was at 11.6 last time I messed with it so leaving it charging. One of the big things is to try to get my wideband situated so I have better idea at whats happening with my AFR as I mess with TPS as the maps are based off that

Ferrari SF90 v new Rimac Nevera: DRAG RACE *WORLD RECORD!!!* This thing walks a 1000 horsepower car like it's a Camry and runs an 8 second 1/4 mile. Mind blowing.

Thank you. Any information helps. I do look to be reverse of you. I don't think it's an issue of concern honestly. I just looked where I'm sitting now. I'm at 10% TPS at idle, where I used to be 12% before I messed with it and took it off/remounted it etc. Here is what my table/graph looks like Third picture is what I'm trying to adjust it down to. I'm also trying to reset the minimum and maximum to 0 and 100. This however is what caused a TPS too low alarm in the ECU and caused it to be reading max at idle, which made me revert all the changes Graph Table Trying to change it to something like this. Where 0 and 100 hit at a narrower range

Another look

They are certainly thinner. I think they could have done worse. I saw the video too. Personally I'm not sold on them. If JAL weren't an option this would be a very reasonable alternative to the old bulb style lights. Would be neat if they had some sort of light movement integrated into them.

I have not. I'm pending sourcing a replacement to partition it out and testing the TPS is not something that I'm familiar with. Not ruling it out entirely just yet. I'm somewhat confused why the ECU has an 8.5% set as minimum and 90% set as maximum for TPS range in either case. Once I get home I'll be doing more tinkering.

The adventures continue. Today on the way to work car started to idle out of control again when not in gear (switching between gears or at idle/clutch in). I think I narrowed down the sequence of events that lead up to this and cause it. Fairly certain it's my TPS sending a 90% throttle input to the ECU so the car starts to get more gas. This isn't real full throttle because the air trumpets are still closed and I no longer have any sort of IAC to be a potential issue. Also the car isn't really accelerating on it's own when in gear. In gear it It isn't accelerating because of 1 of 2 reasons. 1) Either the out of control idle isn't enough to push the car in gear 2) Any throttle input takes it back out of the 90% zone and puts it back into accurate reading zone. To verify this I would need to recreate the event and have my laptop on hand. Which is difficult because the 98 laptop has no good battery and always needs to be plugged in. I'd have to recreate the problem at the house. Reason why I think this makes sense. I started to mess with the TPS table yesterday. After playing with it just a little bit, I was unable to get the TPS to not be at 90% (which is set as maximum). Upon tinkering with it no matter what I did it was showing 90% unless I unbolted it and turned it drastically by hand. Not being able to figure out what the problem was I reverted everything back to the way it was and was reading around 10%. BUT here is what I've learned. just a 1.5% deviation down from that 10% causes the sensor to read 90% input. Anything below 8.5% (which is set as minimum) starts reading as 90%. When I bolted everything back together yesterday I was now at 10% to start (for the last month when everything worked I was at 12%). So now that I was so much closer to 10% when things get hot or whatever else might happen it's causing the sensor to start outputting 90%. On the side of the road I bumped the butterfly idle screw a little more and that allowed me to get to work. I must be just far enough away from 8.5% to not be triggering 90% input. I'll check to see what TPS % I'm set at now when I get home. It's definitely not the throttle cable. It's definitely not an IAC issue (it's not present) so I'm assuming that this is an ECU setting that's causing the car to idle out of control. Also I don't know if related but the car started to run hot again during all this happening. Would running very rich cause an overheating issue? Quick google search says it's very possible. Car has been good temp wise for last month, now with out of control idle event it started to get hot. I thought it was running hot that was causing the event, now I think it's the other way around.

Interstate transport has been the only company that was willing to accommodate extra material to transport for a little bit of an extra fee. As long as the trailer would fit inside I wouldn't be surprise if they'd be willing to entertain that. Overall was very happy with the company.

Even more interesting. Turning the unbolted TPS unit by hand gave me a sweep of 8.5% to 90%. Anything below 8.5% immediately switched to 90%. So 90%> 8.5% sweep bac, into > 90%. Not even sure what to make of that. Can't get sensor to output value of 0% or 100% at all. Still might be able to quick fix it by adjusting the TPS voltage table? Maybe I'll find another unit to order as well, just in case.

No Oregon advice but a cautionary advice. A loophole in registration/insurance that allows registration doesn't mean insurance will be happy or honor the loophole. Registration has to follow state of residence and insurance has to be matching as well. If you're a CA resident and car is registered in OR and insured in CA and a claim has to be made, it will raise some red flags and can cause payout concerns if elements run arounds are involved. I think an OR registered car would have to be insured in OR as well. @Croc can likely chime in with much better insurance knowledge