Vovchandr

Never having one but reading a lot about it over the years, yes it should fold up. I believe the skeleton remains folded on top of the rear hoop and the rest goes into the "trunk". 95% of people hate it, remove it and never use it, 5% swear by it. Take that for what it's worth. It's cumbersome to put up the erector set of the scaffolding for the top. Half hood can be purchased through 3 or 4 different avenues. Caterham Parts directly, Softbits for Sevens, Thundersports (supplier for Caterham) and I believe Rocky mountain dealership? might have some in stock. Otherwise you have to wait a while for it to be made and shipped from England. Also listen to whatever I B Sevener says, he's got more first hand experience than most I'd say in the states.

First you're going to decide whether you're going windscreen or aeroscreen. You can't really do both, at least not with ease (one would have to be in the passenger compartment while the other is on). The reason why I ask is because it's an entirely different experience from the practicality standpoint depending on which you chose. The top only works with the windshield. Doors only work with the windshield as well. Windscreen and doors make it a much more pleasant experience but they also shelter you from a lot of experience. Being a motorcycle rider I see you're familiar with being out in the open, but the Aeroscreen is that and more. I've always ridden with a helmet due to safety and legality. Even when I visited states where I didn't have to wear a helmet, but we do know that it takes away from the experience. Being in a 7 with just the Aeroscreen is what is akin to riding without a helmet but safer for obvious reasons. I love it, especially considering I can't and won't do it on the bike. f you chose to go Aeroscreen, especially for a long trip, you're not protected from the elements at all. Lots of sun screen, ear plugs, hat, glasses and you'll still be fatigued by being out in the elements rather quickly. If the water comes you either need to have a back up helmet if you want to keep driving but stay wet or you have to find shelter, where you'll have to apply the tonneau cover (i see that's supplied as well) You likely won't have the time to get it but you will find across the board that half hood is one of the most recommended upgrades done to 7's world wide. It's a perfect compromise of weather/sun protection without completely taking you out of the elements. I've done many thousands of miles traveling on my bike in the past and haven't done any long term driving with the 7 yet. Longest was driving it down to NJ. In my limited experience it's hard to trust reliability of them especially on older ones. Since I've bought mine years ago I've been chasing small gremlins. A leak here, a stuck throttle there, a lose bolt elsewhere, dead cluster etc. If you owned the car for a while or have a good rapport from previous owner that he's been driving it a lot recently than maybe. I know mine isn't up to the task. It's apart as we speak due to gremlins just from local commuting earlier in the week. Stuck throttle, slight overheating, rough idle etc. If you chose to go with the windscreen, then with the doors and the top on, you could actually drive through a snowstorm and not particularly care. It's cumbersome and claustrophobic but it does the job well, it actually makes it a car.

Thank you for the comment. I was having the same feeling as you, contrary to the descendants. Obviously you and the winner really liked the package and you think it's worth whatever. Due to limited availability of 7's in the states and the amount of different packages, when you see one that fits your criteria and it's available now it's worth getting even though there is a considered "premium". I honestly wasn't even in the market for a 7 when I came across mine and it was worth going across the country to check it out, buy it, ship it and deal with the issues that it had. As I get older and am in a better financial situation, I find it easier and easier to justify any cost for having things done now, instead of having something cheaper (that often needs fixing) that I wouldn't be able to enjoy for years to come. I couldn't put a price on the satisfaction of being an owner for the last few years. Good luck in your searches. This is a good place to keep an eye on listings. Did you use the Caterham designer tool on their website? What spec did you end up making? Nothing available in the California dealership right now?

So I've done digging to this in the past and couldn't really find any particular articles on this explaining the name "Super Seven". I'm sure they are out there, I just couldn't find them. When/where did the "Super Seven" moniker come from and why "super"? As a Lotus is was the model 7. Then when Lotus closed the factory on Friday and Caterham started building them on Monday it became "super"? I remember originally it wasn't called a Caterham, it was now sold in the same dealership where it used to be sold before in the town of Caterham, so the people would reference the town name more so than the model moniker. I could never narrow down the origin of the "super" name. I'm assuming that it's referring to the next iteration in the history of the model but I'm also pretty certain it didn't start from the start? What do the experts have to say?

Grindy half the time. Loud clink during the other half. I don't mean to scare you, but this is always in the back of my mind. These are race transmissions, not street transmissions. They are rough and expensive. I happen to have a plan B of regular 5 speed for the worst case scenario. I hope it lasts forever but it's certainly aggressive and its always in the back of my mind. These are not DSGs. Different generations of Sequentials had different problems too. I believe Sadev is just about as good as it gets.

Hi and welcome. Where in NY? I'm upstate if you needed somebody to check up on it What sequential does yours comes with? I assume straight cut and paddles? I have an old Quaife sequential straight cut that Caterham used in early 2000's in mine. It's... an experience. Everybody is right about it being more tedious on the street but I love it. I hear nightmares about frequency of rebuilds. I haven't reached that point yet. 620r is quite the car.

You can follow Dave Struves build for his Aeroscreen experience He had to buy two different styles because first one had a fit issue For sale thread with pictures https://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=18425 Build thread with pictures https://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15496&start=135

Hi. There are only 2 aeroscreen models commonly available for the Caterham chassis. Regular "series 3" version and the SV, which is the wider/longer chassis. If I recall the 442 is dimentionally different from the book by 4 inches wider, but the book is also not the same dimentions as the S3. it's close but I don't believe it's the same. The SV model aero screen will be your best bet, but some fitting will likely be required.

Ah yes. Looks exactly like mine did. I actually just ordered another one to have on hand, as they definitely seem to be a "wear item". Installation of the replacement didn't go very smooth either. I was surprised to see it bow while being fixed in place. I assumed that it's normal. Seems to hold.

Is that what they mean when they say "the first cut is the deepest"? :toetap05:

Ah. Very good point. That reminds me I need to finish my SBFS order and get myself a tonneau.

Also finally figured out how to mount the poppers on the aero screen. A little confused why it's the proper way this way. It was a much tighter fit without poppers at all and it sat flush. This seems almost like a downgrade. More testing needed. Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

Did a few things today Found a mount for the garage opener. Was very proud until I went to test it after pulling out. It appears the chassis blocks a lot of signal from that area and it doesn't work well. Wrapped the aero screen. Still not perfect but I'm more happy with it this time around. Put the foam mats inside the fender wells to help with rock chips and noise. Chased down the electrical cluster issue that has been bothering me. Came to realize my inline fuse didn't work properly. Fuse was intact. Power was being carried on one side but failing to transfer through the other side for some reason. Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

Personally I'd like to add that I really wanted to have the guards on the wings but unfortunately there is no circumstances that works with the carbon fiber wings in the way I wanted. Caterham ones will match weave on one side but be opposite on other. Kcd I believe was the same. I also didn't want to drill into carbon fiber to mount them and finally I was told it was a little redundant. CF wings themselves don't get damaged but might need to be relaquered and that's where I am at now.

*Raises hand*

It's a very good looking 7. Love the gauges. Svt zetec is nice too. Are you saying you put 1500 miles over last 8 years?

Probably partially because it only averages ~666 miles a year.

Good luck. I hope you don't have the same issue of bond failure that I did. I don't believe you're using the Big heads though so you have a lot more surface area to attach to. My Sikaflex is re-curing now

Hand made! Are you planning on gluing the wings on?

Failed side with primer Waiting 7 days for full cure now Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

Doubling down on ones that haven't failed Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

Pictures of the failed bond after scraping remnants off fender Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

As some of you know, my glued on fenders (Sikaflex) have failed on last NJMP 7's event. Even though they drove down to NJ just fine for hours from NY, I suspect the increased temperature of hot days and track have put the glue to the limit and failed. Ironically I was prepared and I brought my bolted on spares as well. Swapped after the fail and then the bolt inserts failed next... Either way I had to wait until temperature was warm enough to reapply the adhesive. Maybe this thread will help somebody in the future as this is a pretty common subject within the 7s community. Sikaflex is generally accepted as the top go-to adhesive but it comes in many varieties as well as different ways of application. I don't glue the fenders directly on as I like the ability to take them off for service issues and other parts swapping. So I ordered the big head fasteners. I originally used Sikaflex 292i (white). One side held just fine, the other fender 3 out of the 4 have failed to adhere to the stainless Bigheads. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008F8VYMM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This time around not only am I switching to Sikaflex 221 (black) I'm also using the Sika recommended primer on the one side. (Sika primer 207, pretty expensive for such a little bottle!) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NW5LWHA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/CRL-Black-Primer-207-Polyurethane-Adhesives/dp/B0737DN7CY The primer should help adhesion to the Bighead fasteners. Being a believer of don't fix it if it aint broken, I did not redo the side that hasn't failed but I laid a generous amount of new Sikaflex over the top for good measure.

Thank you Croc! You gave me far more information that I could have hoped for. I do believe I have the regular wheels and not the ones that are machined for CSR, everything leads to that. If they were CSR and machined they should have sat more sunken not poking out. I think you're right about wingstays. I dont have one to compare on hand but mine were never matching side to side to begin with. There has been some kind of impact or other (sitting on them??) difference between how the two sat. As far as maneuvering the fenders over, no luck even without the bolts. I'm in the process of remounting the set I have with BIGHEAD fasteners (the ones I had that didn't hold up on track day) but they sit in the same location. The lip of the fender is all the way against the vertical part of the fender mount, IE "max towards out" setting/location. After I get new mounts I could take another look at the side to side mounting of the existing one and see where the difference is. Edit: and yes mine are stamped ET13