SENC

Remember that the axle is unloaded in the picture, so that bit of angle should be expected. Once the car is sitting on its wheels and carrying weight it should be approximately horozontal, allowing some movement in the vertical plane in either direction.

Check with Tony Ingram at lotus7.com and with Chris Mintoft at Redline in the UK.

I can't positively identify yours, but here are a couple pictures of the S10 axle from my 65 when I had it out for cleanup. You should be able to zoom in for markings, but I don't see any similar to yours. The 2nd pic is of the handbrake tree arrangement.

Here is a picture of the churchill-style hub puller from a post I made on another site. As I suspect is obvious, it bolts to the hub and supports it at the entire circumference, reducing the risk of bending the hub with other types of pullers. The central bolt is tightened against the half shaft. Generally, a couple cycles of penetrant and heat before mounting the a good crack in the tightened bolt with a small sledge will break the taper seal and allow the bolt to be turned further extracting the hub. As noted in my post, I really had to wail on one side and ended up slightly distorting the thread end - but that was fairly simply machined. Once the hub is out, the half shaft should come out without much effort - but (on the opposite side of the difficult hub), the half shaft was quite stubborn and I had to rig up a set of spacers and use the wheel nut to pull it. Once you confirm you have a S10 axle, the following semi-active forum may be useful to you in any rebuild.

I didn't look closely enough at your photo to notice the flat cake pan on its rear. As MV8 said, could have been a mod for oil, or perhaps a way of strengthening. There should be some markings on the nose/front side - maybe grab pictures of those and any other distinguishing features and someone may help definitively identify. The Standard 10 axle has a breather hole on top of the right side casing arm. I'll find and post a picture of the hub pulling tool.

There is a manual for the Standard 10 rear axle in the "downloads" section of the site. Pulling the hubs/driveshafts is easier while the entire axle assembly is installed, but you definitely need a special puller tool as the hubs are easily bent (and not easily found). It took several rounds of penetrant and heat and lots of patience with mine - one side in particular fought me for a couple days. If you aren't familiar with the puller tool I'll find some pictures and where I got mine. Also a good time to order and replace bearings and seals. If you determine you need to fully open the box, I agree with MV8 that it can be done from below (with room), but I think I'd do it on the bench. Removing/replacing the assembly isn't difficult and gives you the opportunity for a full cleanup and a coat of protective paint. Mind the breather hole!

I was told by several UK Seven owners that he is not currently trading. No insight into whether this is a permanent closure or a temporary closure.

Nice, wrll done!

BLO has some thinner already (metal thinners to aid drying that are added when the oil is heated), but to your point probably needs further thinning to be sprayable. Turpentine is the traditional thinner for BLO (in woodworking), but white spirits or mineral spirits would work as well. Linseed oil and tung oil are among the very few "drying oils", meaning they actually do cure to a dry film. Other oils, whether vegetable-based like canola, or mineral-based, don't fully dry and remain in a fluid state (to some degree). The downside to LO (and tung oil) is a very long drying/curing time, so adding the drier additives and heating reduces cure time for linseed from 30+ days to just a few.

Excellent!

I don't recall, but if not you can get them from Chris Mintoft at Redline. He had a tonneau made for me that I'm very happy with.

I can attest to the seats from XtraSpecialSevens. The PO had Mick make entirely new seats for my Seven, they are superb.

Put me in line if Dave doesn't want them.

111 max Db, 138 lbs. Not sure the power to weight ratio meets Lotus standards. Needs to add some lightness. Perhaps they should have done bookshelf speakers rather than floor speakers.

I prefer the traditional black hood, boot cover, and tonneau - but it's your car, you should do it exactly the way you want it!

I went back into the old se7ens listserv and simplesevens archives to see what I could find - no references to other cars from which this might have come. Caterham continued use of it for many years (though maybe in flat rather than bent) so I'm surprised they can't be found. Did you check with Chris Mintoft (Redline)? Arno Huberts in Amsterdam frequently has obscure old parts, worth checking (search for him or his parts page on FB). I did find this picture in the simplesevens archive..

@SevenAmerica?

Nice, John!

I was chuckling about this, too. I got caught in a brief shower while driving in the WVa mountains last year. Both sides of the windshield were wet when I got back to the trailer at the hotel, but no evidence of a windshield leaks.

Agree with the recommendation on Tony Ingram. You might also reach out to Mike Ostrov - if you don't know Mike, he is the Elite guru but also quite knowledgeable about Sevens and all things Lotus in California. You can probably find contact information for him through Golden Gate Lotus Club - he's also fairly active on lotuselan.net.

Grabbed a couple pictures while st the shop... Handbrake from below - no obvious markings but may help you establish if yours might work. As you'll see (and someone noted previously), in the Seven the inner cable is anchored to the chassis and the outer sheath is what is moved back and forth. And my tachometer - correct for 1965 and positive earth, not sure whether it was different in earlier S2s.

duplicate

I can't say for certain about earlier S2s, but that is different from the handbrake lever and mechanism on my 65. I only have this picture on my phone, which probably doesnt help you much, but will try to grab one today or tomorrow of the mechanism itself to see if it has any identifying numbers/markings.

Totally forgot to add when posting last night, but I suspect Redline will have what you need for the handbrake. I'm pretty sure I recall reading that Caterham continued with that brake design for a bit, thus my thinking parts are likely available. If not, it's not a terribly complicated design - essentially a cable levering the rear Triumph brake drums - and wouldn't be hard to figure out I think. Do you have the Tony Weale book? If not, order it pronto- it is a very useful reference and also helpful with identifying parts from other cars and when parts changes occurred

This might be useful - an extract from a Lucas parts reference book. Includes the wiper motor numbers which do appear available on ebay.