Pokey

Well... maybe someone can help me interpret the results. First of all, when at the coil the logic probe shows red (12V) and flashing green (the pulse signal from the ECU). So #2 has red only, #4 (for example) has red and flashing green. This is where it gets potentially weird. With difficulty I've gotten wire to the back of the pins on the connector in the ECU on the #4 and #2 wires. At the ECU on #4 the probe shows red (expected) and solid green - rather than the faint flashing green that happens at the coil end of the wire run. I'm surmising that the solid green is actually a very fast flash that my eye can't perceive, and that wire resistance results in signal attenuation demonstrated by the faint flashing on the other end of the wire. Does that sound plausible? And... wait for it... on the #2 wire at the ECU I get red with a faint flashing green. In other words, on the #4 wire-run the probe shows what appears to be solid green at the ECU and faint flashing green at the coil, whereas on the #2 wire-run it is faint flashing green at the ECU and nothing at the coil. And for a bonus, the voltage at the ECU on #4 is 2.5V, and on #2 it is 12V. That is the weirdest bit of all of this. I've got to run but await all of your brilliant and creative ideas! At this point I'm pretty much tapped out.

Hold on, got one more thing I can test. @MV8's point about going through the back of the connector to test is something I might be able to do at the ECU. If so this would be the definitive test of the wire run between the ECU and coil. That run has checked out so far, not just continuity but it also has the same resistance as the other three coils, but if there is no pulse at the ECU then I'd know the wire didn't matter.

@JohnCh pointed out that if the issue were the ECU not receiving a trigger (i.e. the crank and/or cam sensor) to send the pulse, then the pulse would not be sent to the injector too. I just tested the injectors on #2 and #4, and both are getting the pulse. So it appears to not be sensors. For grins I tested the resistance across the coils on #2 and #4 (same) and swapped the coils and re-ran to check for pulse yet again (no difference). I'm running out of things to test and am now checking with Bruce B. to see if he has an old MBE lying around that I can plug in and crank the engine over to test. It doesn't need to start, just crank would be enough to check for the pulse at the #2 coil.

@MV8, thank for the response. I had done what you described but using a logic probe and with the coil disconnected. The pins in the connector are weather sealed, but I was able to get in the back of the connector using some very small gauge wire and just re-ran the test on #2 and #4. As before, #2 has no pulse from the ECU while #4 does. I'm as confident as I can be that there is no ECU signal to #2.

Well... maybe this is an answer as to whether the cam sensor is used, there is no cam sensor folder:

I can't find an Easimap "panel" for the cam sensor, but I did unplug the sensor while the engine was idling with no effect, good or bad. Could be the ECU doesn't use the sensor at idle or at all, or it could mean the sensor is bad. No idea but I can't help but thinking that I'm missing something. @sf4018, I loaded the ecc file into Easimap but can't figure out how to see the settings. I suspect that one has to flash the ECU with the file and then read the values off real time, obviously something I can't do with a locked ECU, unless you know better?

That would suggest that the locked ECU uses the sensor then. I'm not where I can use Easimap today so can't open the file, but I'll try to find the panel for the cam sensor tomorrow.

Related question, does anyone know if the MBE ECU even uses the cam sensor signal? The wiring harness/ECU pinout indicates it is connected, but it isn't clear to me whether the ECU uses anything more than the crank sensor.

Unfortunately, the issue is upstream of the spark plug and the coil. And, yes, you can unplug the coil on cylinder #2 and it makes no difference to idle. I can say with a good degree of confidence that the issue is a lack of pulse from the ECU reaching the coil. The question I'm trying to answer is why - did the ECU suddenly and unexplainably fail in such a limited fashion, or (in my mind more likely) is there something happening that should not or not happening that should that triggers the ECU to send the pulse. The latter seems more likely, but short of the crank and cam sensors I can't think of what else that might be. If I had a spare ECU, crank sensor and cam sensor then I would go ahead and swap because why not, but I suspect that there is something else amiss.

Super kind offer. I may wind up PM'ing you at some point. Thanks!

I've got a weirdo for you all. One cylinder isn't firing due to a lack of spark. To be specific, the ignition circuit B (second to fire) is non-functional in my 420 (2.0L Duratec). It came on suddenly at the end of a long-ish drive. The coil is fine (swapped around to be sure) and I have the expected 12V on one of the two wires at the coil connector but no control signal on the other wire. Whereas the other three coils receive signal from the ECU, this one does not. I've tested and re-tested to be sure I have continuity from the coil to the ECU on that signal wire, and that resistance along that run doesn't differ from the control wires to the other coils. I've visually inspected the crank sensor and cam sensors but haven't gone further down that path as I wouldn't expect a problem with a single cylinder if either of those sensors are bad. Perhaps I shouldn't be making that assumption, but Easimap isn't throwing any faults and the crank counter increases as expected. So... short of the ECU itself not working properly (which would be strange, in general, and even stranger for it to fail in this way), what else might account for the ECU not recognizing that it needs to signal the coil to fire?

Okay @cemaykan, inquiring minds want to know what, if any, damage was done when slapping the concrete?

Nothing a bag of rocks in a buddy's boot wouldn't solve...

You might try putting the passenger seat on adjustable rails so it can be moved forward far enough to allow the shoulder belts to snug up.

Sorry you had to go through this Perry. You didn't mention the fuel tank, perhaps the truck was tall enough that the damage is above where the thank sits?

Interestingly, I can't seem to get these images right side up, but here you go!

Umm... I see that you installed the interior side panels. The female end of that fastener goes right about in the center of the picture you posted a while back. The good news is it appears to be a clip, so I'm thinking that you just drill out one of the rivets, slide it into place and then rivet. If you need a picture that shows which rivet to drill let me know.

There are a lot of different methods used. I chose to attach the the windscreen rather than the doors since I'm usually door-less. First step is to figure out doors or windscreen.

You should have the female portion of that fastener on the inside of the sill - same color and size but with a hole in it.

+1 to Kilmat being heavy, and sound deadening not really being something to be concerned about in an open cockpit car.

Thanks for sharing John!

The Norton with its drum brakes and stinger silencers is my favorite too, but the Ducati looks to be in terrific shape. Can't tell, early 90's? Maybe a 907?

@Mr Mark, please start an Off Topic discussion thread with lots of pictures and stories of vintage bikes. I suspect there are a few of us that would be appreciative.

I'm able to position such that they kiss before pushing them together. It isn't engineering at its best, more like abstract art where I'm just doing a bunch of stuff and then something happens.

Okay, since we are getting creative... I have placed boards or a pallet to span the legs of the hoist, placed the engine on that platform, and then used the hoist to lift the transmission and dangle it in front of the engine for a little weightless finagling into alignment.