Pokey

Understood. Just curious, but you mentioned a flat washer on either side - does the rear linkage call for two flat washers on the outside (bolt head side)?

Any chance that the surfaces aren't perfectly flush and/or orthogonal? I wonder what would happen if you were to torque, then rotate the linkage by hand through the normal range of motion? Would the bolt still be at the same torque value?

I believe the Seven and grommet were developed synchronously. Followed almost immediately by the plug.

Is it possible it is misfiring or firing on only three cylinders? If so, you could try disconnecting each spark plug coil one at at time while the issue is occurring. If you unplug a coil and the problem doesn't worsen then you've possibly isolated it to the coil or a connection upstream in the harness.

There are two assembly guides for your build that are good to contrast and compare: Seven 270, 360 and 420 plus ACADEMY, Version 02.2015c Duratec - Edition 2.0 The second one has the rather unkind nickname as the Ikea version because it is a pictorial guide. Note that Edition 1.1 of the Ikea version is still floating around out there even though it has been deprecated. The edition/version is shown on the title page. Both of the above are available on this site in the Download section (Browse/Downloads). Learning from others is a great way to avoid some of the more frustrating aspects of the build due to sub-optimum documentation. I'd suggest reviewing the build threads on this site, and checking out these blogs: https://caterham420detailedbuildblog.co.uk/ https://caterham420rbuild.com/ https://caterham360build.co.uk/ https://www.caterham7diaries.com/ http://caterhamsevenbuild.blogspot.com/ https://www.purplemeanie.co.uk/ http://www.simplesevens.org/

The radiator was a head scratcher for me too. The puzzle was solved after researching the fan and finding it was a push (rather than pull) design, confirming it belongs in front. From there it was a matter of rummaging until finding the right bits to make it work. You will run into these situations from time to time, so best to consider it as a part of the experience and try to enjoy. By the way, be circumspect about the torque values you see in the the build manuals. If it doesn't seem right then best to do some cross checking. And just checking, are you using Version 2.0 of the Duratec assembly guide?

I'm jealous @sainthoo, I'd love to be able to do it all over again. I would install the radiator after the engine as it is pretty easy to damage it especially when you roll the crane into position. For the radiator brackets, see if you have what is in this picture:

How do we know it isn't P10 and P11?

Anyone have any great ideas for fire suppression nozzle placement, particularly in the engine bay? I'm hoping someone can share what they've learned and perhaps a picture? Left to my own devices I will place a nozzle on the diagonal tube by the exhaust and on the opposite side under the intake, and a third perhaps centered near the ECU. Mounting on the tubes probably involves a p-clip, and near the ECU a threaded rod to get the nozzle elevated. The cleanest install would be all three nozzles in the firewall right, center, and left, but I'm concerned that the distance is too great to the forward part of the bay.

I've got a stupid question so those reading please be kind, but how sure are we that the Caterham chassis are powder coated? I ask because the durability of the surface and the thickness of the coating is more reminiscent of paint. Even more so with the suspension components and the wing stays. To be clear, this isn't a gripe as I don't really care either way. What chipping that has occurred I've been touching up with an enamel and that seems to be working just fine.

I'm using an EarthX ETX680. They have other form factors and cranking amps available. The ETX models are designed for use with an alternator.

I did something similar. That location also has the added advantage of being far removed from the heat of the engine.

Installing: Lifeline Zero 360 fire suppression system On order: Superlight roll cage Soon to order: Blinkstop Third brake light with modulator Once I've gotten confirmation that the cage will actually get to me: Order the Soft Bit for Sevens SLR Cage Weather Set and new boot cover Remove hood sticks and replace boot cover (and sell sticks, hood and boot cover) Source mirrors w/ mounts for roll cage

When researching for my build it seemed like the general consensus was upper for road, lower for track. I went for the lower position and have left it there so can't compare, but the car seems fine on the road so no complaints.

Confirming @11Budlite, it is as you suspected Bruce, thanks again. Greg

That would make so much sense! All I can see is a profile that looks like a cap head, but it doesn't look like a bolt in the picture you posted. It would also explain why it protrudes from the case. I'm pretty sure you are correct but will try to confirm later today - maybe I can get a pick in there to probe the top. Thanks for finding and posting that picture. I spent a couple of hours looking for what you found and gave up in frustration.

I could use a hand identifying a bolt that protrudes from the right-side top of the Mazda derived 5-speed gearbox shown in the photos below. The first photo is from Caterham's online parts catalog, where I've circled this protruding bolt in red. The second photo is of my gearbox, where that protruding bolt is now only finger tight. Was this bolt only finger tight when I installed the gearbox and just didn't notice? Does it penetrate through the case, and, if so, is it safe to remove to apply thread locker?

I've never had to ship for a rebuild, but perhaps someone reading this has had a good experience and they can make a recommendation? But as 7Westfield points out, yours may not be serviceable.

Nice, thanks!

A month ago I would have thought all of this talk of trunnions was somehow related to a fish those in S. Ca. might be familiar with, but I've been reading a book on the Elan that @JohnCh recommended and have a little bit of education now. The use of 90W is mentioned a number of times as it seems many came to the conclusion that grease would be better only to find out otherwise.

Assuming you aren't going to reuse the ball joints, then I'd try a pickle fork. And if you don't care about destroying paint or bushings, then heat may be the answer for the upper control arms. Regarding the coilovers, I'd go ahead and have them rebuilt. Springs are probably fine but imagine some oil loss and that which remains is probably due for a change. If I'm wrong and they are actually gas units, then I'd assume that gas has escaped.

I didn't notice any branding on the insulation from the factory, but it looks like typical Reflectix style foil. I've personally not used or even seen a self-adhesive type, but have used spray-on contact adhesives to apply without issue. A roll of decent aluminum foil tape is handy for repairing tears.

I'm probably a weirdo, but when at car shows I tend to gravitate to the low riders, rat rods and other more creative endeavors. To me these kind of builds have an artistic quality that makes me happy.

I reached out to Jack Webb in 2020 about the same part and learned he can't sell into the US market because of UK product liability law.