KnifeySpoony

Trackday bar is definitely taller, and leans forward.

New, never installed tach for a 420R. I assume works on any modern Duratec Caterham. These are 225gpb from CC. $195 plus shipping.

sold

This is what mine looks like.

Pretty sure you should have some half-height nuts for the lower wishbone. At least your spacers fit together. Mine were an absolute bear. I've read online people having to heat/freeze to get them together. I had to sand mine...

I can't recall exactly what my choices were - I'd reach out to Bruce for details.

I bought from Bruce, and I had options on when to lock in payment/exchange rate.

You can also get them from Caterham. I bought a set from them as well and price after shipping was virtually identical to price from Roger Kraus. They were delivered in something like 2-3 days as well.

Also hadn't realized they were bought by Goodyear last year. https://www.tyrepress.com/2022/10/cooper-to-close-melksham-factory-2023-consultation/

It's this one https://caterhamparts.co.uk/seatbelts-harnesses/7526-seatbelt-4-point-quick-release.html They are 4 point, no sub strap.

Awesome build. TC on a 7 though... doesn't that kind of defeat the purpose?

https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/forum/chitchat/cooper-tyres-melksham-factory-danger-closure I guess it's just the uk manufacturing closing. Hopefully the zz line will move manufacturing overseas (and maintain quality).

My understanding is the xr4 was a ford sierra in the uk, and our rear calipers are indeed sierra calipers. However i think they are modified slightly to clear the radius arm or something else if I'm not mistaken.

Avon is no more it seems. All us aficionados will be switching to toyos I guess?

Never installed, new in box pair of 4 point harnesses, dated 2020. These are 200gbp each from Caterham (plus UK shipping). SOLD

Drove Sonoma yesterday. Had zero leakage. Between the thin paperboard ring and being careful not to overtighten, problem solved. I did a double thick towel over the top and a full diaper system underneath, and everything was bone dry.

I paid $7k to have my kit delivered in 2021... (to port of Long Beach, then trucked to a warehouse in Bay Area).

My fluid is rated for 617F boiling point. True, as pads wear thin, fluid will be more likely to boil. I would just expect to feel a change in pedal feel. But maybe that's an incorrect assumption.

Front locks up first. I put higher friction pads on rear to move the bias rearward, as the front were overbraked with the uprated front calipers/larger rotors. I previously did the calculations on brake bias but don't have the numbers anymore. The stock system is heavily front-biased. A prop valve will not help without first upgrading the rear setup to overbrake the rear. A dual master/balance bar setup is ideal for sure, but I'm not ready to take on that project at this time.

I think CC sells a kit to convert? I had intended to change to flexible lines soon after my build but haven't, as the rigid lines don't seem to cause any issues. The calipers are easy to lift up for pad changes (my calipers have been off at least half a dozen times for various reasons), and both pads wear evenly (something I read about as a potential issue with the solid lines). If a line fatigues/cracks/leaks someday, then I may change my tune lol...

Will do - Is this something that could change/develop over time? Or something intrinsic to the master cylinder?

No vibration. I did check hub/caliper temps with IR gun after several sessions on Thursday, as I had just replaced the RR caliper due to a leaking piston seal and wanted to make sure I was getting equal braking on both sides. Both rears were equal in temp- back of pads was about 450F on both sides hot off track iir. Fronts are less than half that but I figure that's to be expected with a solid disc and no airflow.

Fluid is fresh rbf 660. Pedal rock solid all day, don't think it's boiling.

I have the AP Racing "race" cap with the bellows and no sensor- installed from new, as recommended to reduce/eliminate leaking from stock cap. It didn't leak a drop until last trackday it was leaking something fierce. Not sure what changed. I have a towel zip-tied over the cap as a precautionary measure to absorb any seepage. After each session on track Thursday, the towel was fully saturated and there was mist/spray around the area under the bonnet (presumably flinging off the wet towel). Changing out for a new towel each session would just result in another saturated towel. Made sure it was quite tight (can it be too tight?). Made sure the bellows was well-seated into the cap before screwing it on. Tried putting the bellows down into the reservoir, and then applied the cap. Nothing helped. I know some people on some cars recommend running much less fluid in the reservoir (say, only 50% full) to minimize leaks. I have always kept it topped up to "full", however over the course of the day, it ran down to about 75% full with no less leaking. Just now I cut a small ring of paperboard (cereal box lol) to fit into the ring groove in the cap to give just a little more downward pressure on the bellows flange to see if it helps seal more. Maybe something thicker would be of more help. Won't know until next time out on track next Saturday. It doesn't leak with street driving. Anyone dealt with this issue? Any hot tips?

interesting