KnifeySpoony

I hadn't considered that the ECU hardware itself could be faulty. Caterham mentioned me sending the tach itself back...

I just realized my sticker doesn't say SPCNS on it- is that gonna be an issue with regards to smog testing?

My 2021 build 420R still has a misreading tachometer. Apparently there are 2 possible calibrations, according to Caterham. Unfortunately, one reads high, and one reads low. With one calibration, the tach reads high by about 50%. With the other calibration, the tach reads low by about 1/3 (ie with actual RPMs at 3000, tach shows 1000). I have read about older Caterham tachs having internal dipswitches, but my understanding is the newer ones don't. I am still working this issue out with Caterham, but has anyone heard of this issue? Thanks

Just got back from BAR referee in Livermore...

item is sold

This is $265 plus shipping new; how about $200 shipped?

Yeah, I'm hoping for a less than detailed inspector... I'm going to Alameda.

Congrats!

Caterham accidentally sent my kit with the older style oil cooler mounting brackets, so I don't need them. https://caterhamparts.co.uk/oil-system/2842-mounting-bracket-for-duratec-oil-cooler.html?search_query=oil+cooler&results=216 These are free to a good home - just pay shipping

This is the Beachman racing product: http://www.beachmanracing.com/rollbar-mounted-light This is super nice - has a custom machined aluminum mount for the LED strip that sits flush on the rollbar. I decided not to install it on my newly built 7. Has never been installed or used. SOLD

There is the screw to tighten up slack in the rack. Have you checked that to make sure it's not overtightened? Seems like the simplest thing of all.

I never got rollers and didn't miss them at all during my build, fwiw.

All good points!

Correct. I'll take a closer look and see if there is any irregularity there. After thinking about this, I realize that after assembly, I had the car aligned, and the nut came loose on a trackday after that (I think the 2nd trackday after alignment). So it's likely that they undertorqued it, not me. Still, it'd be nice to have a target tightness.

It was "good and tight" before and came loose so I'm hoping to get at least a ballpark true torque setting to prevent destroying my control arm.

Not the nut that holds the upright to the balljoint, but the locknut that holds the upper balljoint to the upper control arm. I had one go loose on me and hopefully I didn't damage the threads too bad. I can't find the prescribed torque value anywhere. Thanks

I did the twist thing and it seems to have done the trick. I don't know why it never occurred to me before... (rightytighty)

Or just don't install them at all. I failed to see what benefit they gave so I didn't install them. Seemed it would only make for headaches later.

Yep, there's another set of unused wires on the left side of the engine near the oil filter as well. I just ziptied em somewhere out of the way. Nice progress. Everything is still fresh in my mind from my build so any other questions, ask away.

Will try!

My center (rearview) mirror on my aeroscreen doesn't want to be tight. The base is tight, so it's not tilting, but it rotates easily about its axis. The hex fastener on top is very tight but the mirror turns easily enough that at track speeds it won't stay put. I thought maybe the top bolt needed a little more downward pressure on the mirror so I added a thin plastic washer, but it didn't seem to do anything. What am I doing wrong? Thanks

I still don't know what they expect on cars with without an intake manifold/plenum (ie direct to head throttle bodies). My dry sumped duratec on roller barrels has no way to implement a pcv that I am aware of. Hopefully just routing the oil breather from the tank to the airbox will be adequate.

I believe the Euro 5 cars are closed system. I know that my 420R is not. Not sure about the Sigma-engined cars. I am very pleased to hear that the roadblock against Caterhams may have been lifted. Maybe I'll get a plate someday after all.

Ok that makes sense

App is RaceChrono. It can use the cellphone GPS, but at 1Hz, the performance is not ideal. I'm using a standalone Garmin 10Hz GPS unit via bluetooth.