Sean

...a Mustardo?

I think I would find it easier to drive 70 in 25° weather than to drive 25 in 70° weather. Actually, I lived where there was 25° weather, and found what was nicest was to to drive a U-Haul outta there!

I haven't heard of Tata before, but somehow I imagine they have large headlights.

:confused: Your car name was mentioned in the first reply to this topic. Actually, it is the very first word of the first reply to this topic.

Good luck tomorrow, Mondo! :thumbs:

Those questions didn't seem that tough. Excuse me - I'm going to have a couple large glasses of milk and then do some silicone work around the house...

It is very uniformly applied, and each bolt is absolutely identical. It almost looks like a band of candle wax has been carefully melted on, or maybe a very thin heat-shrink tube, starting just past the first imperfect threads and continuing for half the length of the bolt. edit: After re-reading my original post, it sounds as though I was describing a Ny-loc patch (I wasn't). I should have attached a photo, so here's one now: http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1484075068_CIMG6396.jpg An engine builder in the U.K. answered my post on Blatchat this morning, and he (she?) tells me it is a thread sealer, used to prevent any oil from seeping through the threads and getting on the clutch, and that it is referred to as "patch locking". Hmmm...

Got my new flywheel bolts out of the bag today, ready to install the new flywheel on my Duratec engine, and there is some red stuff on about the first inch of threads. Now I'm apprehensive about applying Loctite to these threads until I find out what the red stuff is, and if applying threadlocker on it is necessary, optional, or maybe even harmful. Anybody know? Bolts are in a bag labeled Cosworth (called them, but they're closed until 2008). Thanks.

It's a good thing you did your recon up front and won't have to deal with that clerk again on this issue. You should find out if the smaller DMV office is doing the pre-register thing. It greatly increases your chance of getting a number. Good luck!

Mondo - I understand what you're going through because I went through the same thing last year. If you are building a kit or home-built vehicle, you will need the following: 1) the MSO 2) receipt for the engine 3) receipt for the gearbox 4) receipt for the chassis (kit) 5) a completed DMV form REG 243, Application for Title or Registration 6) a completed DMV form REG 5036, Statement of Construction 7) your checkbook When I did it, I left blank the line on REG 243 for the date the car first entered California, and when they asked me about it, I told them that the kit chassis was supposed to have been delivered before January 2nd, but that there had been some delay due to the (in)action of some third-party vendor and the kit was now expected to arrive later in January - which was the truth. I asked the clerk what I should put there, and she said to leave it blank for now; no big deal. It sounds as though you are in exactly the same position I was in last year, and I'm just trying to help you. Please accept my apology if the strong wording of a previous post here seemed too harsh. If there is anything else I can do to help, just ask. - Sean

So where is the pic of YOUR wheel, Mazda? I mean, c'mon, you started the thread!

In California, new cars must have all smog equipment that originally came with the engine original and intact. These days, that includes the fuel tank (and exhaust, and intake...). So if one wants to build a Seven replica kit with, say, an engine from a 2007 Honda S2000 for example, it is required to also have the stock exhaust, intake, and fuel tank from a 2006 Honda S2000 installed. Unless it is registered under SB100... Of course, none of this applies outside of California.

Sparco 270mm http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1360243110_7int01.jpg

Mondo - Try http://www.californiacaterhamclub.com/wiki7/pmwiki.php?n=Building.SPCNS100 instead. Just focus on the parts related to getting the SPCNS number and worry about the other Schlitz later. Excuse me, I don't want to come across as hostile or anything, but I think you need a couple of virtual slaps across the face here to snap out of it: Wrong approach. You need to find out what it takes to get the number, and then do it. It's not brain surgery. You will need the MSO, receipts for the engine, gearbox, and chassis, the two completed forms, and your checkbook. Just do your homework before you take the test. Learn exactly what you will need to give them so that they will give you your SPCNS number, and give them just that - nothing more, nothing less. After all, as I understand it, your chassis is on its way, but just got held up waiting for some part, right? Oh, and try not to get to worked up about running into some butt-head working in a government office. This kind of thing tends to happen every now and then. Sorry - it had to be done.

They did it for me, and for everybody else in line for SB100 that day at my local DMV. I think this is dependent on which office you use.

The Seven is the kind of car that has, what, five non-essential components? You are quite fortunate if only a headrest is missing!

Pushed my rolling chassis while turning the wheel, and ran (pushed) over my own toes of my right foot just a couple of weeks back.

Congratulations!

* Copper "grease" - McMaster Carr, Grainger, local auto supply... search for "Lubricants, copper-based" * Torque wrench - Not abused, not a problem. Unless it is inscribed with "property of Rutherford B. Hayes", or something like that. You'd want to think about recalibrating that one. * Fuel cell - ? * Wings - Mine are bonded to the stays; no fasteners. Have you discovered which parts are incorrect or missing yet? From what I understand, there is always something missing, unfortunately.

I recall reading threads on Blatchat about starter issues. It seems like it was almost always a heat-related issue due to the starter being so close to the exhaust or some other heat-generator, typically solved by a simple heat shield made from a thin sheet of aluminiunium, or whatever they call it over there. A search for "starter" or "click of death" or the like on Blatchat in the Tech Talk section will yield further details.

I noticed the article was originally published in July/August of 2005, which would explain the price difference.

Ansar Ali's original comments are on page 4 of the November "Caterham Life" e-publication, found on the Caterham web page -- or here: http://www.caterham.co.uk/assets/html/November_2007.pdf (1.4MB pdf file). When I read it, I thought some of the comments were a bit inappropriate, but I think the Blatchat community mostly overreacted. I saw Mr. Ali's comments as unfiltered sentiment from the head of an international company, and while I disagreed with some of what he said, I very much appreciated his straightforward honesty. His reply also surprised me, in that I did not expect one at all. I think it was a very good one, too. Ultimately, I see his original comments as only a misstep as opposed to a full-blown screw-up, and his reply as more than redeeming for that misstep. edit -- So, are you gettin' the Porsche?

I have always been told something similar. But then, my younger brother was working as a scuba instructor at a resort where he was once asked, "What time does the seven o'clock boat leave?". Now I normally try to give people the benefit of the doubt, but no matter how I look at it, that question is just plain dumb. For the record, without any hesitation my brother replied, "Four twenty-three a.m sharp -- don't be late, or you'll miss it!" He then turned and walked away while they pondered the answer. :ack:

Dry sump tank source link time: http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/ http://www.mocalinc.com/ http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/

Hey! We might be neighbors! I too am only a half mile from FedEx Freight!