EdWills

Hi MV8. Thank you. The article is from the Triumph Owners' Club of New Zealand (Christchurch) and has been written by Alex Miller. There are 5 downloads pertaining to the Smiths tachometers along with a guide to other Smiths instruments. see: https://triumphclub.co.nz He has titled the papers "A Gentleman's Guide to Smiths Tachometers" and also "A Gentleman's Guide to Classic Smiths Automotive Gauges". A ton of detail is provided with diagrams and identification of the various instruments Smiths produced for car manufacturers (OEM) and also for aftermarket use circa 1960s to 1970s. Cheers W.

My Lotus Seven Series 3 is fitted with an original working Smiths electronic tachometer and is in the RVI series 1003/00. I found an excellent web site from New Zealand where the author describes this model of tach and also the RVC type manufactured by Smiths. In the article, the author notes that the RVI tach can only be used with points in the distributor, not electronic ignition (another site noted not without modifying the tach internals - which is expensive - using a kit from the U.K.). Not having had any experience of electronic ignition, would a Lucas distributor that has been converted to pointless operation still be considered 'electronic' and prohibit the use of the tach that I have? I have a Lucas pointless distributor and a Bosch Blue Coil set originally from Burton U.K., but I have not installed them yet. I am rewiring the connections to the tach (external wiring) and have the wiring diagram for the correct connections (+12v power, negative earth/ground, connection to the coil etc.). I also have 2 original good condition Ford Mopar distributors fitted with points and with extra spares for both. I may end up using one of these sans advance mechanism. I read that Formula Ford rules require distributors with points, and the series runs very well using these apparently (Bosch/Mopar/possibly Lucas), but with constant attention given to wear on the points and adjustment of the timing. Any electronic whizzes (digital or analog) on the forum with sage advice please? W.

It is possible that hot glue from a glue gun has been used due to the 'string' across the plastic surface. If the glass is not attached quick enough and the glue is left to cool, the holding strength is diminished. Hot glue looks like the above, and don't touch it when it is hot, as it does cause painful burns. It can be removed easily with isopropyl alcohol (an original fix from the great Norm Abrams on the PBS programme 'This Old House'). W You can pick your friends and you can pick your nose, but you can't pick your friends' nose!

Right on Scott. In an interview posted on YouTube (as well as interviews for magazines), Colin Chapman notes that the Seven was a 'bread and butter line', which allowed Lotus (and of course Chapman) to venture into Formula 1 and other racing categories. Lotus lost money on the Elite Type 14, cut down build expenses on the Seven Series 2 by removing metal, but gained a profit when they went to DIY kit construction for the Seven. It became a reliable source of income for lotus. Chapman had started out with trials cars for his first builds based on Austin 7 parts, so it shows that he was always interested in motor sports from the get go. With his aeronautical background plus those of his original associates, his fondness for lightness was apparent from the very beginning. Fitting a Lotus twin cam engine, the Seven chassis frame had to be beefed up to take the power, but the Standard Triumph rear axle was still the weak spot for the car. Unfortunately for the Series 3, a stronger axle was incorporated, but the chassis frame remained the same as the Series 2 with which it was almost identical, and suffered the same frame failures. On SimpleSevens.org, John D. has an article from Mac McIntosh (Lotus 11 designer) who breaks down the problems with the Seven chassis weaknesses. The Seven Series 4 was no stronger than the Series 2 and 3, and the fibreglass body took the brunt of the failures and hid rust prone areas that were not accessible or noticeable. Caterham of course corrected all this on their Series 3, but it is a whole different car from the original Lotus model (and dare I say it, a whole lot better?) W.

Hi @hahuang65 Just watched a few of your YouTube videos. You keep your garage very clean and orderly for the build. Any chance you can lower the camera (for a close up) when you take the engine out to investigate the fluid leak and show us what happened? Cheers Harold. W.

A company in the U.K. producing parts for the Lotus Elite type 14, (enquiries@mk14components.com part #FS02) has just finished machining a batch of reconditioned track arms for some of their customers on an exchange basis. As suggested by MV8, they machine out the old ball joint, but replace it with a new removable ball joint assembly that can be changed for future repair. However, they advise that this process is very expensive, and they have been losing money by doing this. They are considering remanufacturing the cast part themselves, but prices will rise. Right now, they charge 375.00 U.K. Pounds Sterling (without tax) on an exchange basis for a pair of reconditioned arms. Regarding @7Westfield's accurate assessment (thumbs up to you), they are producing arms as shown in this attachment. They feel that it will be aesthetically o.k. for an Elite, as the bodywork covers the front suspension, but on full view for a Seven if authenticity is not a problem. Also, cheers MV8 for the diagram. W

Hi MV8. Brilliant idea to renew the ball joint. Didn't think of that, but it would work. It would make a sound unit that could be renewed as necessary. W

Hi Joe. Hopefully someone on this forum will grab them before too long, if not, perhaps try another Lotus forum. I understand that the Lotus Elite type 14 owners have a dedicated site that can be reached at http://EWROwners@comcast.net W

What is a suggested replacement when the ball joint in the cast track control/top arm/top link (all names used by Lotus for the same part in the Series 2 manual) wear out? The same goes for owners of the 1000+ Lotus Type 14 Elites, which used the same track arm. On the Mk.12/Type 12 racing car, Lotus modified the Ford tubular lower track arm from the 100E and Consul by cutting off the end and welding in a threaded sleeve to take an adjustable ball joint. Ford then produced a cast part for the 100E/Consul, so Lotus produced their own cast top arm for the Elite Type 14 and the Seven (Tony Weale advises that this part is one of the few original parts for the Seven from 1957 and his book details the above). I checked on-line with the Lotus Elite 14 forums, but no one mentioned the part. A company in the U.K. somehow manages to replace the ball joint inside the original housing, but they only do this once a year according to their site. Lee Chapman used to carry this item, but no longer on the web site, same as Tony Ingram, and others (Bean, Caterham, Kelvedon Motors U.K.). Recently on ebay.com, a pair of very used Lotus Super 7 top links was selling for $445.00 U.S. or $613.00 Canadian. The rubber gaiter or sleeve was missing from the ball joint, and the arms looked rusty and well worn. The item sold with an offer, but the sale price is not known. What will owners of Sevens/7s do when the ball joints in these arms wear out and become a possible driving hazard? Perhaps the purchaser of the used arms has a plan to go back to the drawing board and manufacture some tubular replacements? It could make sense if the arms are well made. There is not much space between the ball joint and the opening that allows the anti-roll bar to fit inside with the rubber bushings, so any threaded ball joint would only have so much thread to allow adjustment, or to be welded/brazed inside the extended tubing. Food for thought? W.

Very, Very N Very, Very, Nice. I'm Lotus British Racing Green with envy. Great job, and so clean! W

Hi @tgentry. Always good to source locally/in country if possible, but if you need the entire bonnet catch in the future, Holden.co.uk carry the exact model you have number SD/060.060. I have an old catalogue/catalog and it shows it as 'lockable over centre clip chrome plated'. I remember on another U.K. Lotus Seven forum where a contributor asked about these clips. Lotus, like other manufacturers of the time, would source parts for their early cars from various companies. The bonnet catches on my 1969 Lotus Seven Series 3 are the exact same type as my father had on an old tool box he used at his workplace. They were a common latch in the day. The one you have can be padlocked, but the ones I have cannot. If you just need the top clip, then Pegasus has come through yet again. Cheers W.

@perrysdad. Message left for you last night. W

The bushings I have are mild steel. I will check to see if I have anything close. W.

Hi. I agree with your findings regarding the pin.. Sometimes the mandrel stays in the nose and the next rivet is required to push it through to be ejected either into the mandrel receptacle or on the ground. I also have a brand new/unused U.S.M./Stanley PRG540 air hydraulic (now out of production, manufactured in the U.S. and the last one in stock at my local compressor spares company). A fantastic piece of machinery, but an aging compressor bit the dust, so I deferred to the Milwaukee. The PRG540 will handle stainless rivets up to 1/4" with a hefty pull as demonstrated by the shop manager where I purchased it from. W.

I have a number of bushes originally from Arch and also Xtra Special Sevens that are spare. Mine are in Imperial measurement, but if you can send me the o.d. and i.d plus length , I can determine if 3 of these will do for you. W

Needing to reattach some aluminium panels to my chassis, I checked some on-line videos and a popular alternative for riveting (than air/hydraulic) was the Milwaukee M12 electric riveter, which is designed to pull up to 3/16" stainless steel rivets. My local Home Depot showed that the riveter tool was on sale (no battery or charger), plus a reduced price pair of 3 amp/h batteries, and a reduced price 2 amp/h battery with charger. The entire package was sold as separate items that you could add or delete, and was very reasonable. The M12 will easily pull 5/32" Monel rivets, and also the quoted stainless steel. I had obtained my Gesipa rivets from a U.K. rivet company 2 years ago,, but Gesipa does not show Monel in their latest catalogue. The rivets I have use stainless steel 'nails' and make a good job, as the nail pulls almost flush with the head of the rivet making them more or less structural depending on the material thicknesses being joined.. Three different lengths covers all the thicknesses of ally that Lotus/Caterham/Arch use along with the 18 gauge mild steel chassis frame. Caterham/Arch used aluminium rivets on some of their frames and body parts almost entirely, but Tony Weale in his book only mentions Monel for the rivets on both Lotus and Caterham frames. Gesipa (of Germany) does manufacture an electric riveter, but it is quite expensive. Gesipa does have a U.S. distribution centre and they offer good advice. Home Depot offer a 90 day full refund/replacement if the tool or accessories fail within this time period. The batteries are also compatible with the Milwaukee extensive line of electric hand tools. Removing the 'nail catcher' allows the riveter to get into most small spaces on a Seven chassis. If using this tool in the garage where vehicles are parked or are planned to be parked, make sure that you recover all of the nails before parking - if the 'catcher' is not used, as the riveting action does tend to gently fire them out of the back of the tool. Safety glasses are also essential if you don't want one in the eye! The tool is about the same weight as an air/hydraulic riveter. It is working great so far.

Well, there is a proper way to do it, and then there is your method I guess. What would be wrong in slightly undoing all of the bolts that hold the diff, and then perhaps using a dowel pin or a bolt with no thread and rounded off at the end, or possibly the non pointed end of a correct size drill bit, using them to align all of the holes. Then with the correct sized bolt, slide the bolt in displacing the dowel pin(s)? When the chassis frame is built, there is no guarantee that the welder snugs up the jig tight enough, or perhaps moves the frame pieces slightly? Presumably the bolts were correctly installed in the first place, so why use brute force to replace them? W. 'Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you do criticize them, you're a mile away and you have their shoes'.

John, Not the greatest photos, but if you need anymore info, just drop a line. The strip is probably 28+ inches long. Not sure if Fanny's Fabrics sells it though!! I am curious about what other application it would be originally used for? W.

Hi John. Pics from my top

I was at a small racing car shop in my city a number of years ago, and I watched in horror as a so called mechanic attempted to install the Hewland gearbox and bellhousing assembly into the Lotus twin-cam engine of an immaculate Lotus 23C. He was using what we used to call a Birmingham screwdriver (a large mallet with steel head) to attempt to drive the input shaft into the end of the crankshaft by hammering on the rear of the gearbox. He had not properly aligned the clutch plate with the flywheel, and the install was not going well. The car owner was trying to help, but seemed oblivious to the damage that could be caused to his car, trusting that the mechanic knew what he was doing. I got both their attention with a few choice words, and inquired if the clutch plate had been aligned correctly. A check proved that it hadn't, but the mechanic insisted that he could have jogged it into place. The mechanic did finally adjust the clutch plate. I'm hoping that the above quoted response is meant to be humorous, but please don't try and force any bolts with a steel headed hammer. A rubber mallet can be used to budge some components into place, but if something doesn't line up, please find out why before resorting to brute force and ignorance. Cheers W.

Hi John. Just dug out the original soft top as fitted to my 1969 Series 3. It is exactly the same material as you describe, with the thick-wall hollow rubber hose inside (3/8 inch diameter possibly?). Mine is a claret colour, but probably whatever the Lotus supplier could get their hands on. It is stitched in place on the front of the soft top, but 5 snaps that clip the soft top to the upper edge of the windscreen are also fitted into the material further securing it. Will send a photo with measurements as soon as my battery charges up. W.

Gone. W

My Seven windscreen was fitted with a gasket by the previous owner. It consists of a bicycle inner tube cut to fit! It works very well, and makes a nice fit for the new glass to prevent unnecessary movement due to vibration. Make sure you use the original screws (or same screw lengths if replacing the old ones) to put the frame back together, as they shouldn't be too long to prevent them digging into the new glass and causing a new crack. W

If anyone missed this edition of C&SC which contained an article regarding 2 Lotus 6 cars, plus an 8 page spread on 5 decades of Caterham cars covering test drives of 7 vehicles from a 1977 Lotus Twin-Cam sprint car to the R500, I have one in good condition to give away just for the cost of postage to your location. W

Hi WB. I checked the part number of your caliper with my Girling reference, and your caliper is exactly the same part number as the caliper fitted to my 1968 built, 1969 registered Lotus factory constructed Seven Series 3. There must have been a very adequate supply of these items coming out of Girling/Lucas for Standard Triumph, Lotus, Caterham, Marcos, Formula Ford constructors, plus various kit-car producers of the time. You have the 14LF 111B type calipers. Pegasus of New Berlin, Wisconsin carry the 14LF repair kits, and the seal that fits between the halves if necessary, plus pistons and various pad compounds for the 14LF. I have no connection to Pegasus (I wish I did!), but I have always found this company to be very helpful, and they carry a lot of parts that are suitable for a 7. They also have a kit for the Girling 12P caliper and pistons etc. Good luck with your rebuild. W.