IamScotticus

Any changes in front sway bar for these tracks?

Use this as a reference For 5/8 x 36 spline shaft vehicles https://www.moto-lita.co.uk/products/b20

Oh my goodness, that's beautiful work. At least CM gave you a reason. What axle do you have?

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Fuel stabilizer for those carbs and rubber fuel hoses. Sta-Bil and Enzyme are popular. I use it all year, every tank.

Have we set a bump record here? I consider the Slingshot to be the modern day 7. There is a current 7, buckets of them. But it's the idea. Fun, open top, open wheel, stick it to the tax man with the autocycle concept. I think it's the ultimate fun car, besides a dune buggy. But I never see buggies on the street. There's many things the Sling is not going to excel at, but for what it is, its much easier to daily than a 7. And just recently, this lot had a line up of Slings These are Vanderhalls, or Chinese knock-offs.

Interesting... I have been studying the manifold vs. port vac advance debate, watching all the popular Expert Tubers on it. Several of the creators mention the changeover from manifold to (carb) port is in response to new emissions regs, getting the cars to run hotter, burn carbons later in the burn cycle with no idle advance, yadda yadda. I have been looking for evidence of manifold or port vac connections in my various Cortina and Escort tech books, to see how they were hooking them up then, but the closest guidance I can find I'd a mention of disconnecting and plugging the port for the static timing setting. Something I knew from high school auto class. Anyway, we're talking Weber 23 DFM and 32/36 DG*. The 32/36 has a vac port. The 32 DFM does not. Both of my Cortina and Escort Manifolds have the 1/4 BSP tap that can be used for a port. Here's what I intended to share. Going through my english Autodata Cortina 2 manual, I noticed how the recommended idle RPMs increased: 1966-7 580-620 rpm 1968 700-740 rpm 1969 700-740 rpm 1970 830-870 rpm The same engine!

My Crossflow chassis (your DeDion may differ) is 1/2 front-back adjustable. This isn't much. My 30" inseam needed adjustable seats to reach. But I don't like having enough room behind my seat for luggage either. I'm looking to move my pedals back and build squabs to suit. Why squabs? I'm a purist snob now. Some buckets are too thick and I sit too high. IMNSHO, the 7 looks better in squabs. Have the squabs just to have. The 7 looks right with them. There were some folks here selling buckets recently. What's a 99 DeDion VX doing with squabs anyway? Perhaps the PO was too tall for buckets?

Negative. All the engines are unleaded, even the Cat built X-Flows, at least since the late 80s.

Happy B day

Its a really good question

Cold gap is a starting point to get you close so you are less likely to do any damage. Hot gap is the fine tune. The thing about Caterham's gaps is that the early Sprint builds were A2s but they later went to GT cam on the Sprints. My '95 manual does not specify but I suspect by '95 they were GTs, with the 1700s getting the 234 profile. Do different cam lifts require different gaps? I don't know. Assuming your pistons are pocketed correctly, maybe not. But since your head is built, your springs should be checked for binding and breaks at the least.

You also have the hot adjustment. Where are getting your gap numbers from?

One of the best ways to sell a car is to show all the wonderful things one can do in it. Like off-road drifting

Have a advert on Hemmings to get some of the $$$ looking at it. It may not be Robbery Report territory, but you want those high income offers if you can get them. advertise in the UK and Canada also. this is a complement to you. My 7 goes on BAT. Heck my 7 goes on Autotrader. Your 7 deserves much better.

This block has a lot of development (abuse) potential. I have to consider the future owner may want to put the primary there. I can use adapters for a gage sender or other.

Ok, is there a consensus on a particular tap size? I've asked the man himself, Roger King, who being English, is understandably a BSP fan, and why not, Dowdy washers! Straight pipe threads don't crack blocks. He suggested 1/2-14 BSP, (if they will fit) which is also what the Titan pump housing taps are. I will have to bring a washer from my pump to see but I'm already having my doubts that boss has enough shoulder for the washer. Any other suggestions?

Or is it 1 & 2? I forget. Doesn't matter, I can't do anything about it except bypass it. I will ask Ivey.

I agree the port is a good addition, simply because it's possible. But I question the necessity of it being used for the main oil supply when the FF cars run with the 5 port. Yes, the oil passage between 2&3 is thin, but I've never heard of it being inadequate for the competitive builds. I don't know. But, that port could be used for several things like an Accusump type priming device. Let's also remember the close proximity to the exhaust. Not a good place for rubber hose. Perhaps a hard line.

Did you get the left side oil port boss tapped?

Re-casting of the Kent 1600s had resumed. Back in 2020 the COVID situation shut down the foundry producing the special runs of classic Ford muscle. Then the government imposed new environmental standards that the foundry was not willing or able ($$$$) to comply with. It shut down. Apparently Ford Performance Parts is back in business with a new source for these lumps. Pegasus has them, I got one, and this is what you get. Pokey pokey Top Bottom Peek-a-boo There was a bag of plugs and dowels. Thsts it. No, I'm not ready to get it out on the stand yet for your engine porn. I will get around to that later. I am interested in showing the reliefs for the Pinto thrust bearings. According to the good people at Ivey, this is going to be a steady thing, not a limited run. There is a possibility of pausing the 8" deck to make a run of tall deck Lotus blocks, for the twinks I assume. FF blocks should resume after that. I suppose it should be asked, can a 1500 Pre-Xflow be made on this block?

Yea I've got oodles of VGs. They multiply like rabbits. Not as much as the 11/16 wrenches did. I have no idea how I ended up with so many totally useless wrenches.

Ok, you're doing the scuttle easy removal fastener swap. I did that on my last scuttle and will soon be on my current one. I was thinking of what I would do should I get a spinner there. It's tight, but my first trick will probably be to get a needle nose vice grip on the back side of a spinner. I can let that rotate till it hits something (protected with padding). Disconnect the battery!

My squab back wood panel has warped with age, and tension from shrinking vinyl. Needs replacing, which I could probably do myself. I just hope the foam isn't glued to the board. Does anyone know?

I get it. The minimal approach suits the car, and often the driver. I too am inclined to run the old squabs as well. The old BDR seats, while a nice upgrade in the 80s, seem rather overstuffed and ride high. As well as the extra 44 lbs they add. The problem with building squabs for others, squabs that fit within the frame tubes, is the high chance of a non-fit due to chassis variations. If cutting a squab base to fit on top of the tubes, they can be more universal, but one gives up an inch vertically and a method for movement prevention will be necessary. Velcro to the rescue! There are some advanced foam options available that can be layered to build an excellent squab. Squabs are so much easier to remove than bolted buckets when there is work to be done in the cockpit. For those of stature less than 6', the squabs can be a challenge, in a long cockpit and with the pedals set back. For them, and I am one, they will find the adjustable bucket to be the shortest path to a drivable 7. The head rests are included, and they make a 7 more tolerable for longer drives. I think I can build a bench set thicker to space me forward enough.