DavidL

I'll add that there is a 1998 Caterham on BAT at the moment with stunning drone-video footage that has made quite a splash (and the roads are in my neighborhood). https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1998-caterham-super-seven-2/ Obviously a driving video is irrelevant for your sale, but you can look at the BAT historical data for Sevens here: https://bringatrailer.com/lotus/seven/ good luck, David

the pictures

OK, I dug up the mirrors I used. they are from a UK motorcycle aftermarket vendor called Oberon http://www.oberon-performance.co.uk/acatalog/Oberon_Adjustable_Bar_End_Mirrors.html I wanted mirrors that did not require any additional holes. Oberon modified their mount so it just uses a single screw (instead of fitting a bike bar end), which replaced the middle screw in the windshield support. I'v got a couple of pictures, but having trouble figuring out how to post them. Cheers, -David

I solved this with a nice aluminum mirror made by a British company, made for motorcycles. They modified the mount very slightly for me, so that it mounts by replacing one of the M6 (I think) screws that holds the windscreen to the windscreen support. The mirror is a bit small, but fit the look of my car (polished aluminum, clamshells). Of course I can't remember the brand, but I'll try to dig it up. -David

I used to see Pat & John Kelly and her car at SCCA autocrosses about 10-15 years ago. Their Seven was a quick, but a well race-worn car. I wonder if a lot of work has been done to it since then. -David

Hi Andy, It was fun getting together, I'm looking forward to hearing about your search. -David

I bought my Caterham in 2008 based on a Seattle Craigslist ad which, I think, was listed here. I would not have spotted it since I'm near San Francisco. so good things can come from CL! -David

has anyone heard of this kit? It's new to me, but looks well designed. IRS, nice body work, is it British?

I run 195-50-15 Bridgestones (RE10s I think) on my 1990 Caterham. The first time I autocrossed it, I ran the street-recommended pressures, about 24 psi. Way too slippery. I now autocross at about 16 psi, which feels much better. I pumnp the tires back up for regular street use.

Agreed that fiberglass repair may be a reasonable option. Re fueling, I fuel my 1990 Caterham (also in California) by holding the gun essentially upside down. It usually dribbles some at the end, but I don't use a funnel. Good luck, and very pretty car!

I always liked this artist, who seems to like weird small cars. The Super 7 drawing is pretty cool, and I bought a T-shirt via Cafe Press: http://www.boogerballs.com/Lotus_01.htm -David

THe other twin engine attempt I know about is from Matra, where they built a prototype "U8", using two 4-cylinders with their own cranks, joined by a chain drive of some sort. Here's a link http://www.rootes-chrysler.co.uk/car-development/dev-u8.html

Thanks again for all the suggestions. I haven't gotten back into the garage yet to try. Cheers, -David

Thanks for the offer Skip, but I'm stuck(!) on the 0.75 inch forward bushes in the rear trailing arms, not the A-arm. I'm talking about the bushing labelled 7 on the Powerflex page (although I'm using the stock bushes): http://powerflexusa.com/7dedionwithoutwattslinkage.aspx I did successfully re-bushed the A-arm. I pressed out the two 1-inch bushes in the forward A-arm pivots using sockets, and the rear pivot bushes came out without tools. The problem with the 0.75" bushes is the very thin metal surrounding them, its hard to get enough purchase to press against. Thanks, -David

both good suggestions, thanks.

I'm trying to replace the rear suspension bushings on my 1990 Caterham S3/Dedion. Has anyone managed to press out the smaller (3/4" OD) bushings from the rear trailing arms? Any advice on how to do it? The problem is the metal surrounding the bush is only about 1.5 mm wide, so not much room for a puller to grab, or a socket to fit precisely. I've tried pressing against a washer that was about the right size (that I held in place using a 3D-printed little jig), but no luck, at least with a vice. I have an old Harbor Freight press, but the bottle jack died. My next move will be to fix the press so I can apply more force, and try t find a better sized washer (AN?) to press against. Thanks, -David

OK, so what is it (Duratec?), and what are the hp figures?

I enjoyed reading his book on chassis design, which I found in a used book store 20 years ago. I remember he had a cool idea for an anti-dive bar, like a sway bar, but connecting front and back wheels rather than L/R.

For those in the San Francisco Bay Area/Santa Cruz neck of the woods, A friend and I will be driving our Caterhams to the Canepa Design Cars and Coffee event Saturday 7/12. Canepa is an amazing classic car restoration shop/museum/race prep place, and they open it up so that you can walk through the garages. Canepa is in Scott's valley, just inland from Santa Cruz. we'll probably be there about 9:30 am. Cheers, -David

grab a mirror, or just your hand and have a look/feel at the underside of the Webers. I've got the same engine, and have seen the bottom cover plates on the carbs get loose, and even loose a screw, sometimes causing a fuel leak there. If they are wet, best to take the carbs off the engine and replace the bottom-cover gaskets. Good luck, -David

Nice looking car. Did it come from Chris T. at Sevens and Elans? I believe I looked at it there. thanks, -David

interestingly, Rich Kampena (California) seems to be back on the dealer list. I thought he had gone off the dealer list. Bu then why isn't the Superformance shop in Redwood City (just south of San Francisco) listed?! The website isn't very enlightening. Agree that the current prices are not going to help sales....

X-flows are prone to breaking piston rings, according to Chris Tchorznicki, a long long-time Caterham dealer in Massachussetts. So good news that the leak-down test didn't show that.

Glad you had a nice drive! 34 psi seems really really high. Factory rec for my 1990 Caterham is 22 psi, and I autocross at 15 psi on street tires. --David

thanks for sharing. A simple solution to getting in and out with the top up is to not ever put the top up! In 5 years I've never used mine!