Ian7

absolutely ! http://usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/306696180_iphone xfer 004.jpg

Having done various paint/epoxy/etc treatments to home and race shop floors, at all price levels, my 2 cents is - DON'T BOTHER! Get the snap-lock tiles, there are various brands available, some as little as $2.99 sqft. Super durable, and better, you take them when you move. Few pieces of tile advice: 1) don't get anything with "texture" (like the treadplate style), they are murder on the knees when you're working, and make rolling/sliding stuff around the garage a b*tch. 2) think about the smallest pieces you work with in the garage (small bolts and washers), and buy your tile "open area" size accordingly.

Nice but gotta agree - seems overpriced. Several versions available, try a road race supply house like Hoerr, Pegasus, etc.

Here's a less-than-complete answer, but I found out the hard way that NPT and BSP aren't the same... :ack: wish I could remember the details though. For what its worth, don't force anything that won't spin in with light finger torque

Nice photos... but seeing them again, (and I'm more than happy to be proven wrong), that gearbox and unreinforced axle are never going to survive BDA power levels. There are numerous websites where you could post that BDA for sale and realize its proper value. (No, I CANT afford it :cry: just trying to help)

Yeah, I've got the series 3 style A frame; pretty hard to generate a lateral shift unless one or more of the bushes are worn out, that would be the first thing I'd check. If its a high lateral load car, think about a switch to rod ends...

Hi Dean, Got me curious, what's your basic rear suspension design? Ian

http://usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/475533089_scotland7.jpg Not my car, but one of my favorite 7 photo's...

I've had two magazines fold during my subscription. Both offered an alternative, but equally, both very willing to refund my subscription $ balance as I preferred.

My [1600 with clamshells ] wouldn't do 100 falling out of an airplane :lol:

Trade offs for sure... ... self centering and stability I like in my Hyundai; 'quickness' in the Caterham is my goal

Yup, effort is inversely linearly proportional to steering wheel diameter. Don't know what options you are willing to explore, but if your car has adjustable caster, try reducing the caster a bit to lighten up the steering.

Seconded !! how about a pair of SS panels that butt together in the middle to form two small openings, one for the front pair and another for the rear pair?

What we do on the vintage race cars is to use the system you identified, with the mechanical pull-to-activate T-handle rather than the electrical push button. To this we add a "electrical master switch" that is also pulled to 'OFF' by the same movement that activates the fire bottle. Also want to second the above opinion that you do NOT want to pull the bonnet in a fire. Grab a hand extinguisher and shoot it through the louvers on the carb side. knock on wood, all this is never an issue. cheers

Well, here's my other side of the coin... Had a leather wheel, but quickly swapped it for suede; found the leather wheel too hot to handle when parked outside in the sun. No grip trouble with the suede, very happy. Mine's a "Racetech" if I recall. cheers

Sorry guys, 'claimed' via PM same day as posted. En route to NY shortly.

I have a pair of 'british flag' full color cloisonne metal badges, 35mm x 58mm, mounts with two small screws. Free to good home(s), :hurray: you figure out how to get them :ack:

Friend of mine briefly considered the Brock trailer, then did the math on how far he had to drive to offset a $10k price difference, never mine the reduced internal capacity... Steep price to pay to look "swishy". Besides, trailer shouldn't have more "wow" than the contents :lol:

yeah yeah yeah, but what did you buy ??

Yeah, that number by itself is pretty 'standard'. I paid $1100 texas to vermont, dedicated pick-up-and-delivery. Just thinking that if the carrier knew he had a confirmed full load, all going to the same place, at a time of reduced income possibilities, he might be willing to negotiate substantially.

there's that TOW word again... I'll jump in and say I want to be part of this somehow, pending work, race schedules, etc. Worth looking into a group share of a 6 or 7 car dedicated transporter from a common location? ... or a logical progression of pickups along the way?

:ack: :ack: :ack: :ack: :ack: Only $15k for the WHOLE thing ??? shame I'm $14k short Back in the 90's we were paying $20k EACH just for our F-Atlantic BDA's ...... (good times!)

What are these words "towing" and "trailer" :confused: Myself and a friend (who lurks on this board occasionally) drove a pair of Caterham's from Montreal to Road Atlanta and back for Log xx about a decade ago. Best part of 4500km, 2+ days each way. Won ourselves the iron butt award for it... Near as I figure, Barber is an excellent reason to beat that record. Maybe we pick you up on the way by?

Football ? BAH ! some of us prefer the 'beautiful game' :thumbs:

I'd be surprised if you could feel as little as .010" radial runout on the wheel mount pilot diameter. These are pretty 'harsh' cars with a million sensory inputs per second. Tires alone typically have more than that error on their moulded tread... Curious why you made your own rotor hats? that's a pretty serious piece, with nasty a failure mode. No commercial item available? Regards