Ian7

Yeah, sorry, previous post lacks info. This is a non-vacumm mechanical dizzy with an electronic trigger box inside it. Its a Lucas converted by Aldon in England. Aldon confirms it has only 12 degrees total advance PER CATERHAM SPEC !! which Aldon tells me they have advised Caterham is wrong but to no avail.... my intent is to recurve it so I get 12 idle 34 or so at 4000, but curious if its possible or even desirable to be non linear with rpm (if its just weights, then I guess its non linear with square of rpm due to basic centrifugal force physics)

Thanks. Mapping the existing was straight forward. I'm looking for a majority opinion of what might be the best compromise curve. I have a ridiculous curve in my Caterham-supplied dizzy; total advance in this thing is only 10 degrees !! the third party supplier of the dizzy to Caterham even confirmed that they told Caterham their spec was crap :-) ... so it either idles fine, runs like sh*t, or vice versa, depending on where I set it. Looking for opinions before the rebuild starts .

ok, Kent engine owners, any idea what advance curve is built in to your dizzy's? general wisdom suggests a street tuned engine wants about 14 degrees at idle and 36 at what upper rpm?; do we agree? is the ideal curve linear with rpm, or.... ? cheers

Agree, no LHD versions of the "thirteen" twincams, but I don't read his advert as suggesting it is. Original 13 had a 1558cc engine, this sounds to be a standard Kent with a twincam conversion (very popular, very easy) dropped in to an appropriate year chassis. Still nice, but still way too $$$$$$$$ for what it "isn't". my $0.02

see photo: these are the best way to strap a car down, no unusual suspension stresses, no impact loading on any parts, car effectively feels the same loading it would driving on the road.

While your observations about tongue weight in this configuration are valid, the longer the distance between the tow ball and the trailer tires the better the stability while towing. I think you find that the longer the trailer, the closer to "center" the axles are.

I've got a nearly new stock Caterham heat shield and band clamps I'm not using. Make me an offer?

Since Caterham sent me a bike-engine-installation manual with my Crossflow chassis kit, I wouldn't mind seeing if all my assumptions and guesses were correct. Any chance of a copy to : Ian Macpherson 735, 1re ave. #104 Lachine, QC H8S2S6 many thanks if so; no worries if international postage precludes it :-)

Considering the down$ide of running too lean, I'd go with an oversize car pump, with a pressure regulator and return-to-tank line. (imho)

Thx, I'd agree the ACB10's are likely an issue, no real circumferential stability in that tread pattern. Short of outright flex, what could the ears contribute to stability anyway? cheers

This live-axle owner will admit ignorance - - why do you need different ears? (clearance?) How can the ears affect dartiness? thanks in advance for the education :-)

Nice, but could any car ever be more gorgeous than this:

I guess to clarify my original post, my thought was that I have infinitely adjustable, data-overloaded race cars to tinker with; my Seven exists to offset all that and equalize the ... kharma? entropy?

http://www.autoblog.com/2009/07/28/spanish-supercar-company-working-on-infinitely-adjustable-vehicl/ I imagine Colin would be most offended by this "technology"; talk about overkill.

I think it was me that predicted unsuitability for street use; sorry! Best guy in your area is probably JR Mitchell at GMT Racing, give him a call. Tell him I said Hi.

thanks, that seems to match commonly available aftermarket size cheers

can someone save me driving 10 miles back to the garage... I forgot to measure the diameter of the stock Caterham oil P gauge; looking to replace it, need to know the hole diameter in the dash thanks

Sorry, I misread your note as suggesting weight transfer only occurred due to suspension. Moral - read twice, reply once :-)

Karts have suspension, just not "traditional"... :-)

Weight transfer takes place regardless of the type of suspension, or lack of. Since the center of gravity of the kart+driver is not down in the same plane as the tire contact patches, ANY acceleration forces (fore, aft, or lateral) will cause weight transfer in the relevant direction. Springs, antiroll bars, and dampers merely control the rate and distribution of the weight transferred and subsequent dynamic behavior.

I'm going to take issue with the "4 wheel lock up is shortest" comment, but on a theoretical vs practical basis. The coefficient of sliding (locked-up) friction is much less than the coefficient achieved through a properly functioning contact patch, and as such, if it were possible to maintain absolutely perfect on-the-limit threshold breaking, that would produce shorter stops. The fact that most drivers can't produce anywhere near that level is the reason that "locked up" is percieved to be better still exists. And as stated above, ABS is a stability system, not a minimum-stopping-distance system, as it actually cycles the brake pressure, it doesn't attempt to hold a threshold condition. And as for the thought of a bunch of untrained drivers consciously throwing their cars into uncontrolled broadslides... sheesh.

If you can wait until I get home on the weekend, I have a book by Tony Weale with a lot of serial number info as well.

Sorry, but can't let this go w/o comment. Springs don't 'settle', but the really cheap ones yield such that their free length (and hence working length) shortens, and they should be thrown out immediately. My Caterham also has an unsightly gap between the tire and fender which I could correct with shorter springs, but there are other tradeoffs to consider, so I live with it. Besides, I can't see the gap from the seat that matters once underway.... :-)

Hmmm.... a x-flow Caterham and a Bullitt Mustang.... a man after my own heart ! how on earth are you going to decide each morning ??????????????

NZ, something else to consider is that exhaust primary length has an influence on power and torque output. You might want to consult a few engine builders as well, and take advantage of their knowledge to better optimize the exhaust for your car application before committing to a pipe length.