Ian7

Mick, if I'm there, you're welcome to try my live-axle Classic series 3. (Trick will be getting me out of the Exige.... )

Well, easiest way for you guys down there is to buy a car more than 25 years old, and it's a no-brainer. Younger than that I can't comment with certainty.... (up here its only 15 years). Shipping is WAY less than your number if you can tolerate an "at their convenience" schedule. I had a car shipped in 2003-ish for just over a grand canadian (137.52 us back then?), including drive-to dock, plus shipping, plus train from east coast to Montreal (600 miles). Maybe a month total, but not sure how wide that window could be, maybe I got lucky?

A thought on lighter, possibly cheaper, and likely even easier to deal with.... how about the Jabrock we use under the formula cars?

Well, you have to put that advert in context... It's NewEnglandClassicCar; there's been SO MUCH stuff written and spoken about this .... dealer? ... by people who have dealt, or thankfully not dealt with him.

"I have to talk my wife out of going to Jacques' restaurant every time we're in Montreal" Won't name-drop on this, but VERY close connections tell me that Jacques has sold the restaurant... Haven't been by in a few weeks though, so can't confirm if its a visible change yet.

Yup, there's no shortage of stuff in central Florida to poke fun at, (I've spent LOTS of time at Sebring and Brooksville), but the bottom line is he's drivin' his toys today, and I'm shoveling snow :ack: :cry:

Hi Kiwi Don't want to sound "unhelpful", but there really is no way to answer that question with that little amount of data. There is way more science in exhaust design and tuning than most people realize. Whoever designs your exhaust needs to know - - > the state of engine tune, rpm you want it optimized for, length and diameter of the primary headers, (they alone could be far from optimum), length and diameter of any intermediate piping, back pressure in the intended 'muffler' (if any) at different volume flow rates, etc etc for street use, you can't go far wrong with sticking with the collector outlet dia of 2.5 inches for the remaining pipe; I wouldn't think you should step back down to 2" after the 2.5 collector. cheers

Not sure what those are, but had a set of Yoko's back in the early 90's , maybe A509's?, had a similar asymmetric tread; wore out unevenly very quickly.

Cool! curious though, whats bottom-center in pic #2 ? Not a trailer hitch is it :ack: ?

Jeez, everyone and their brother is on our bandwagon, but this is too much... yuch! http://www.autoblog.com/2009/02/10/supercharged-supercar-hulme-to-offer-zr1s-ls9-v8/

FWIW, in the interests of "adding lightness", I've used a lawn tractor battery from sears in all my 7's, about half the sizer of a normal car battery. Most people don't realize that that the 750 or so cranking amps of the big batteries are there to crank over big engines at stupidly low ambient temperatures.... .... which my Caterham never sees. Sixty bucks, lasts for years. (Your mileage may vary.....)

Dingo has the answer, and DaveW the solution. Exactly same thing happened to me, wiped out the mushrooms in under 200 miles. Rebuilt and running Rotella, 1500 miles + and no problem.

Hopefully (80%) one driving 7 to LOG; wasn't likely going to make Branson...

Agreed, another case of people who have NO IDEA how public the internet is, and how effective the law can be tracking down stuff like this when it matters.... What a dip$h*t :rant:

Pretty sure there's a Donkevroot (sp?) running endurance events in Europe, not sure if they run 24 hours though...

How about this one? Engine in front for those that insist, but WAY too much technology for me, and never mind its $150k. http://www.evo.co.uk/carreviews/evocarreviews/232014/ifr-aspid-supersport.html

I seem to recall reading many moons ago that the car itself is the same length, but they got the extra legroom by making the bulkhead in front of the fuel tank more vertical. Kept the top in the same place, "pushed" the bottom rearwards (now 'steeper') to give longer legroom. Could be nonsense, but thats what I heard; seems a simple low cost change, in keeping with the theme back then.

Did I misread the event? I thought the on-track was at Talledaga... :ack: Much prefer Barber if true :hurray:

Although you didn't specify what type of LSD you have, its still the first place I'd look, especially if the diff is 28 years old !! Possible that the internal components are worn or worse, broken loose, inside the housing. Cheers

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :hurray: words fail me

Well, I think I sent you an email. Once I hit "send", nothing else happened, no confirmation, no default back to previous screen, so not 100% sure....

I will, stand by...

I vote for the second one !! love the idea of torquing up the "pose-ers" reminds me of when Burt Levy published "Montezuma's Ferrari" with his chili pepper logo.... had Maranello's lawyers onn their rev limiters :hurray:

Godspeed number 6, "be seeing you" sometime....

Possible cause of slip might be a mismatch in "stack up" dimensions of all the components at your engine/bellhousing/tranny interfaces. Any chance that you are preloading the throwout bearing a little at assy, and it never fully releases? Tedious to check, but might be worth it... cheers