MV8

Much to consider. I don't know your chassis size. If a 442, do you not have room for the oem Turbocoupe/SVO intercooler? Are you running enough boost that it is worth the trouble to fit an IC? Do you have the rocker switch to select the level of boost or some other type of waste gate controller? Engine driven fans are very effective at low speed but also make a lot of noise, especially at higher speed if there is no fan clutch and the parasitic power loss is considerable. There is an excess of airflow available at speed. Electric fans with a shroud are also restrictive at speed. That's why oem puller shrouds have rubber flaps overlapping holes in the back of the shroud that are normally closed and when the fan is on creating lower pressure behind the radiator and open when the pressure inside the shroud exceeds the air pressure behind the shroud. I'd probably run no more than 7 psi to keep it tidy, no throttle delay, less heat to cool, then fit a high amp electric fan with a relay, thermo switch, and toggle back up.

Interesting fixer upper asking $9500. My take with opinion added: 442 well built and registered 2017 by previous owner. Mustang II ifs, live axle rear, and a good poly tank fitted with oem type fuel pump assy (return line), oem nylon and steel fuel lines may need rerouting. Had lima 2.3l but current owner swapped in a duratec 2.5 using the caterham wet sump pan (removed balance shaft), UK sourced T5 bell adapter with hydraulic release bearing, early megasquirt using the lima edis (expect to need a tune), bike TBs adapted with a duratec 2.3 intake flange further adapted to fit the 2.5 (vac leakage problems), copper pipes and fabbed pipes to make coolant connections, throttle cable system should and can easily be improved to stop breaking cables, Crower cams and no vvt, early cover to eliminate vvt holes, dip stick direct into pan, mini alternator, driveshaft angles are 1.9deg and should be reduced. This is the second used engine in four years due to multiple Bosch injector failures from running e85 that caused wash down of the cylinder walls with fuel and needed a valve job and megasquirt tune. I'd plan on a compression/leak down check. Much invested in the cams and Uk adapters. Could be made very reliable with a little work.

Pegasus has stock type parts but they are still high. I think that Burton kit in your link (with the offset/curled tip levers) will work. A '75-81 Escort mk2 with a 1.3 or 1.6 kent should have a 190x22.5-20T clutch, unless it is a '78-80 that is equipped with an RS2000 trans that also included a larger disc (215x25.4-23T).

I don't see a kit for this. The clutch in a kit for a cross flow will most likely be for a 1"x23T input shaft instead of 7/8"x20T. In general, diaphragm PPs are thinner than B&B (smaller opening, three wide levers with adjustment screws) which are thinner than "Long" (larger opening/less shrouded, usually three thin levers, adjust with shims). A diaphragm pp with a platen/thrust ring should accept your existing B&B pp equipped "flat face" release bearing and eliminate the need for a 1/2" spacer. Appears to be the correct PP to swap (no thrust pad/platen): https://www.burtonpower.com/clutch-cover-7-5-flat-fingers-190mm-fp260c.html This looks to be the correct disc for a pre-cross flow 7/8x20T when using a 7-1/2" flywheel and pp (B&B or diaphragm): https://www.burtonpower.com/std-clutch-plate-x-flow-c752af.html The spacer if no thrust pad/platen: https://www.burtonpower.com/adaptor-spacer-clutch-carrier-apc1.html Round face bearing for diaphragm pp without thrust pad: https://www.burtonpower.com/clutch-release-brg-mk2-ford-cortina-lotus-mp315-hd3259.html Here is a pic of a couple different flange height carriers. All these methods try to maintain the intended fork angle on the ball stud. Replacement ball studs are threaded where the originals slip in (bell must be tapped) and offer adjustment of the stud height as another method.

You can get parts from Burton Power, ebay here and in the uk if they will ship here, cortina mk2 and escort restoration sites and clubs, pegasus for the parts that are the same as FF1600, and rock auto when they have the right parts available for a 1971 pinto 1.6l with a 7/8x20T clutch. It looks like you have standard cortina clutch components versus what was available from Lotus.

The trans bearing retainer sleeve keeps it together. The release bearing collar must slide inboard and outboard on the end of the fork as the fork pivots. Ideally, the fork hole should have a close fit to the ball stud but it isn't critical.

It was a suggestion for a check if you were still concerned about the linkage. A bit more than 0.25" at the slave is needed but it sounds like you have plenty. .040" disc air gap x 6:1 (typical borg&beck) plus the release bearing to PP clearance that must be taken up x the effective fork ratio of 0.81:1. I expect the sticky coating was applied by the installer. With Senc's pics I can see the ring gear is not reversable and the starter design selected must be compatible with the ring gears that are available in two different versions.

The facings should not be tacky/sticky or oily. I've seen a facing stick due to rust. Materials for facings are similar to brake pads except for strands of copper and other materials to cope with the centrifugal force. I suggest a new clutch with your existing flywheel and PP if the contaminant has been absorbed into the facings. The ring gear is installed hot and cools in place for a shrink fit. This can be done with an oxy-acetylene torch and rose bud tip, moving around the ring for even expansion or the method Senc suggested. Consider taking it to an automotive machine shop to have it heated and flipped. They may also lighten the flywheel and balance the flywheel and PP together. In situations where slippage is a concern (such as very high compression engines and gear reduction starters), blind holes are drilled where the ring meets the flywheel and roll pins are pressed in and trimmed flush. Make the pushrod much shorter (slave piston still bottomed in the bore and fork within the limits of the bell fork window), then recheck the throw at the release bearing with a stroke of the pedal to see if you get more travel. You could also install everything but the transmission to test. The flywheel may have a minimum thickness specification embossed in the front side. They make crank shims for that or you could fit a spacer to the release bearing to position the fork to have a better ratio through the range of motion.

Assuming that is the right spacing release bearing, you could just put it back together if the clutch facings are not oily if you want. No grooves to check clutch wear against but it looks to be new. Apparently the preloaded test (pushrod adjusted too long) did not cause the clutch to unload/slip. That looks to be a correct, original type PP. The springs in the clutch hub should be tight/not rattle. Installed, each of the borg and beck PP levers should be the same height from the clutch hub. It also looks like the ring gear is very worn and may be flippable on the flywheel. Borg and beck PP is thicker than a modern diaphragm PP that is lower pedal effort for the same holding power. I expect driving in 3rd, pressing the clutch pedal, then flooring the throttle would release a disc stuck to a flywheel. It sounds like everything has been working as it should.

I do not. Those are Rimstock Rimstars. You could get a spare that doesn't match but will fit properly and put a vinyl cover on it. Very common pattern if 4x108 pcd but those specific wheels are rare now.

What information is embossed in the wheel under the center cap? If not there, look on the back side of the spokes.

Hi Paul, do you have that center cap off yet?

Dug out a pic you posted of your fuses. Added labels.

A pic of the wheel center with the center cap off should reveal the wheel specs. I'm guessing 14x6, 4x100, ET45.

FWIW, my understanding is that this is an MBE 959 ecu encrypted for CAT and for a 125hp variable cam sigma. Use a good light and digital camera to takes close, sharp pics of the ecu pin cavities, then zoom in with your camera/pc/phone. They should be numbered and may show more info molded in, like ground and power that you could back probe through the harness connector to find the path to power when the key is off. Does this fuse list align with what you have?

Hooray! Thank you for figuring it out or at least where it goes as the problem remains. What is the ecu part number? Oem late-model I assume. Perhaps ask Cat for the ecu pin out. They seem to be ok with providing bits of schematic for recent customers.

I spy yellow/green wire in the pic above. The module is next to the heater valve. See second page of pistonhead topic, 2019 , 2020 post for the wiring which includes yel/grn.

Is it not where John said his was? Next to the fuel tank?

I would determine if the ecu E connector pin 9 is getting power whenever the battery is connected and ensure the key is in the off position. You should be able to find this MRFU by touching the ground cable to the battery and listening for the click. The main and fuel pump relays are within the MRFU. It seems clear from the "pistonheads" discussion, so I don't know why you are performing unrelated tasks.

Why not make a new clutch pedal identical from the pivot-up, but with two 5/16 holes below for a bolt-on pedal that can be adjusted laterally with a bolt-on pad that can be moved around and narrowed easily?

It looks like a pre-1981 State vin assignment, not a chassis build number. I expect a chassis build number would be three digits or less. Check the transverse panel closely.

Racerwalsh black nylon looks identical to the quaife and not much more expensive than the materials to make it. Original merkur shift knob is an odd shape. https://www.ebay.com/itm/364307907232 https://racerwalsh.com/product/nylon-shift-knob-rwa3151/

Looks to be a Ford C-Max or Mazda 3 fuel pump assy listed by CAT for the sigma and duratec, but $40-100 (3M519H307AV) like the ones below instead of $500 plus shipping. ebay pump Another Ebay Fuel Pump

There are many reasons it could be more expensive but there are only four wires (including the fuel level and grounds), so an integral controller is very unlikely. It could be the ecu performs the controller task. I would determine if the ecu E connector pin 9 is getting power whenever the battery is connected and ensure the key is in the off position. You should be able to find this MRFU by touching theground cable to the battery and listening for the click.

It doesn't sound like you do. I'm not talking about worn bearings or PP fingers. Earlier, he said it was hitting. He also said the piston is protruding from the slave, so a falling fork ratio and not essentially the same as slave travel. Is the fork a 1:1 ratio? Room to swing but from what point? We don't know the push rod length either.