MV8

A few years ago,I thought it would be interesting to compared all the plans I could find for a few basic dims, but I don't think I ever posted it:

I found the Gibbs plans to be the same length as the 442 in overall chassis length. Have all the chassis dims compared in my sig on locostusa, which has once again crashed.

I would not assume. It is true that black was usually just for ground around 1991. It may be a mistake in the harness as an extra ground or something else. If it stays grounded when the key is in all other positions, it is probably a ground. If everything works as it should, there is no harm in cutting it out. I'd leave it, tape the end and stow.

It looks like a cleaner was dripped on the hot exhaust and removed some of the finish. The gold color is a coating.

Ditto. A mini fuse block is a buss bar. Grounds at the accessory can be eyelets on the hardware attachment to the chassis. The chassis is also a buss bar, but for ground. You can also add a 1/4 inch bolt through the chassis as a ground stud for 4 or so eyelets for grounding. There are also insulated studs available for positive distribution.

Buy two replacement dip sticks. Add length as needed for the level to align with the FULL mark. Cut at least five inches from the plastic handle yet above any significant bending that may be required for insertion in the tube. Wrap the stick between the handle and cut with a wet rag. Butt weld with a MIG, belt sand or flap wheel to smooth area if needed but don't grind weld level with the unwelded stick. This is something you can order to be done remotely if you know how long it needs to be overall. Avoid converting to a wire rope "stick" as they usually need longer tubes in the pan to ensure running oil flow does not cause the rope end to make contact with the spinning bits.

The negative cable is always disconnected first on negative ground vehicles to prevent damage, so you would disconnect the negative, not the positive. I would measure the current draw to see if it is reasonable (0.025 amps or less for something like this) or needs to be addressed. The immobilizer is probably about 15ma by itself. You could also install a standard automotive battery with more reserve for much longer storage time without a charger. Yes, jump starting is not good for the electrical system but necessary some times. If done improperly, (like connecting the positive last), alternator regulator failure is likely.

There have been many different methods to control pressure. I don't have any info on that valve, but it looks like a safety relief to prevent pressurizing the plastic assembly above 90 psi/625kpa and the blue wires just ground in parallel to the pump ground. Something designed to have some flow under normal conditions would minimize the splash that causes foaming/aeration. This system looks like pressure would be regulated with voltage level across the pump, not basic hydraulics.

Fuel pressure must be stable enough for open loop tune to prevent washing down the cylinder walls with fuel from being too rich or running problems from being too lean. Pump output varies with voltage and wear. The Bosch design return systems have excess capacity pumps for a long service life and the regulator maintains the pressure so the tune can be effective and the injectors sized for idle and low speed control with a vacuum reference to reduce the pressure. It would be odd for Cat to use the ford ecu and not have the necessary sensors on the fuel line on the chassis (not on the engine) but I don't have one to inspect, so I will take your word for it. The simple solution is to add a return fitting to the tank (they sell them as a bolt-on or the pump assy can be modified without modding the tank) and nicopp line with addel clamps parallel to the existing line, then fit a vac ref, ethanol compatible FPR like Aeromotive sells. The existing pump can be reused.

I'm trying to follow the logic. You don't have a fordflex or oem ecu, but because this guy could not tell any difference with his current pump condition and no wideband, it's ok?

Oh no, I'm far too tight for such things. I believe you are thinking of Bruce K.

As long as they float, either is fine.

Also, separating the ethanol results in around 80 octane fuel. Running e10 or worse with no changes leans the mixture and reduces the range. Never use it in a 2 stroke or a rotary.

Float level checked?

If it doesn't have a speedometer cable, here is one way. I used one to adapt my fiero speedo to work with a chevy cobalt transmission and speed sensor: https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/category_id=287/mode=cat/cat287.htm

Fuel filter as close as practical to the carbs? I suspect you've picked up some trash in the carbs or have a low fuel pressure condition. Ignition modules and coils typically work or they don't, or they don't work when hot. Since it is both carbs because the plugs were "ok"/all looked the same, I suspect fuel delivery. No new rhythms or new sounds while cranking?

I believe the slack was a general recommendation from Tony Weale for older cats. Also, a bushing on the "ball stud"/pivot end of the fork seems odd to me. Just make sure not to preload/too tight and adjust as the clutch wears and the pedal clutch release point moves.

If there is no spring to pull or push the fork toward the trans to create a gap when the pedal is not being pressed and the bearing is correct for the transmission, then I would adjust the cable for zero slack.

https://classicpartsltd.com/product-category/default-category/classic-car-products/classic-car-apparel/

I expect it has higher nickel content (stronger and heavier) plus it can be bored larger than a 711 safely.

Install the flange fitting and hose fitting with the flat toward the block, then install the pump assy to the block. Looks like there is just enough space to do that. Better to have an elbow fitting machined or cut and tig weld to make the fitting longer to drop the threads below the pan rail.

South African diesel block.

59-1/2 days? Even if you ordered from the Pope and he replied to you every day? Dispute with credit card company. If it is just delayed and poor service, it will work itself out eventually. Otherwise, move on and hope it shows up eventually. https://www.nerdwallet.com/article/credit-cards/how-long-do-you-have-to-dispute-a-credit-card-charge

To modify or basic parts: http://www.brdracing.com/2tc_3tc_exhaust.htm https://www.jtoutfitters.com/product/trimill-manifold-exhaust-header-for-70-73-toyota-corolla-2t-2tc-1-6/ https://www.lmperformance.com/shop.asp?make=toyota&model=corolla&category=exhaust&type=headers-manifolds&su=Y&sort=popularity

I have all Smith's books except for the pocket laminated book. Good stuff... You can check if the threads are npt or bspt with a known same size fitting, point them in opposite directions and try to see the light between the meshed threads. Hoping they are npt. Can't tell just screwing them in, only if they leak.