MV8

That's great news on the trans. No pics but I am assuming that is the outside diameter that is 1-1/4 and may just be a very thick wall. If you wish to reuse the fittings and replace just the hose, the crimped shell can be cut straight across with a die grinder (just deep enough to see the rubber) to use a screw driver to split it off, releasing the hose and making the fittings reusable and indexable (with the clamps loose). It can be difficult to remove the crimp collar so remove the hose from the car and cooler and put the fitting nut in a vice to hold it (not too tight). Once removed, you can measure the fittings for the right size hose. The hose can then be replaced and a radiator hose clamp or a crimp collar/oeticker can be used. Sae30R7 fuel/evap/oil hose comes up to 3/4 ID (heavy truck supplier).

Probably 3/4 thread on the cooler for AN8 full flow elbow fittings and 1/2 inch hose but check. https://www.ebay.com/itm/390612527352?hash=item5af25228f8:g:bMEAAOSwC7FiXrhw&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwJ%2F2ZfTaOFnZEHLwSg%2BNa%2F%2BodfRpfJchWlpHsX4tg%2FJBQ1B1rmiI8fcG3UKUHJ1uv%2F7rfxjbJG9mAqOGpIxSNJryIT7f50RJfhn8pctTvnR%2F9J7ZG%2BunLR1f9zbblFoU77nTGtaYkdHHwvWyrhQ5E%2Bu8Z%2BXHxChX4t3ih2bOc16zzFSco0KiOIbJRhdyz0fMBW7xOf6FiegcGRhY6vqtucIMNHONkrw0DMaCNQXVjhaZAXlzjkoMFwuBSnCCALmoIQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR9TQ_f31Yg

A debate? I had no idea... I suppose if they were leaking they would not be allowed, but I've never had any leak. Not sure what rule would be broken on a track.

In general, no for the oil lines, but I've used pushloc hoses (they have no external clamps) many times for remote oil filters and coolers. They last a long time. You can get what you need on ebay for the hose ends and hose. It's also possible to cut the crimp ring off what you have to replace the hoses with the appropriate rated rubber hose, then fit crimp rings to reuse the existing fittings but it looks like yours are kinda beat up in the pics.

No. In this case, it is only a couple mph faster than indicated (varies with speed), but this assumes the speedo was corrected for the tires you have now.

Those will cause the speedo to read slower for a given speed, might bottom out in the fender at full bump, and will raise the ground clearance a bit, but it will be more dish and will probably clear the outer fender lip.

FWIW, the blue tape is good but it still needs to be pulled back on itself (as much as possible) to keep from lifting paint. (I've painted a few cars and helped at my high school buddies autobody shop over the years).

I'm confused by your earlier post. You said that you were incorrect and that the wheels are 15x7, et19. Were you referring to what you have is not a 16" or what you want is a 15x7, et19? Nice link Drakman. That will help to keep the math straight if it is accurate.

One inch wider with the same offset should put a 1/2 inch outboard and inboard, so it MIGHT fit. Assuming the actual tire size is 205-45-15, the tire with the closest outside diameter (0.4" larger/ 0.2" radius) that is available/common enough is 245-40-15. Eight inches is the minimum width for this tire. A 225/45-15 would be a better fit for the width but would be 0.7" larger (0.35" radius increase). These are the mfg specs and more accurate than calculating what it should be based just on the size number. I recommend a wheel with zero or slightly negative offset (this dishes the center by pushing the rim/hoop outboard) and a narrower rim/hoop as needed so the tire does not make contact with the outer fender. There are wheels that have a thinner center and spokes and appear to be a different offset but are the same size. They tend to be steel or forged without covered lugs. A high-end tire shop will have a tool for hanging a tire without a rim to check fit and determine what wheel offset is needed. Another alternative is narrowing the axle housing and shafts or widening the rear fenders. I could not find a 205/45-15 currently offered. Is that driving the change so you might as well have the dish look?

You have a PM.

I suspect you are in 5th or reverse since 1-2 and 3-4 are in neutral. Rotate the input shaft and watch the output to determine what gear it is in. There is a plunge action at the shifter to defeat the reverse lockout to engage (lump inside hole aligns with notch in side of shifter shaft). Some more info: https://usa7s.net/ips/topic/14314-gear-shifter-biased-to-5th-gear/page/2/

The rim size is typically under the center cap, in the voids between the stud holes on the hub side, or inboard on a spoke. You can also measure the size and offset with rulers. The rim flanges/lip thickness must be subtracted from the measurements. The first three digits are considered tread width to fit a standard rim width range for the number, then the next two digits are the sidewall height (aspect ratio) but they actually change the tire width to ensure the tire will still fit the rim width range. A 45 is wider than a 55 with the same tread width due to the reduced sidewall bulge. A tire mfg will list the rim width range for a given tire. Best to stay near the middle of the range for easier bead seating and prevent unseating if the pressure is run too low. The bigger the tire, the lower the pressure should be for a given curb weight.

I forgot about that. Once the column is out, it will be simple to make a new one rather than mod the old, using dom tubing. It may be easier for future work to use a tube od slightly less than the bushing id then slip on a sleeve in the bushing area and spot weld to the tube, then grind/sand/turn flat. It sounds like the lock will need to be removed and/or the wheel hub removed to slide it forward of the dash, then drop it below the dash to pull to the rear.

Stop. Take a pic from the footwell up, forward of the dash panel, showing the column and steering lock. Why do you want to remove the column?

Wow! It sounds like he bought it for an investment as a very special cat. Most are not by comparison. I'm guessing you could get $35k or more as a non-runner if it were to be auctioned, but I understand if that is not on the table and it is just a fun car to be driven.

Yes, you have a bucket with a hi beam indicator light on top (universal originally made for a motorcycle). It is likely the lights I listed are the same depth as what you have now if not a little thinner.

I thought you said 40,000 miles. I chuckle a bit when I see sales adverts that state "ran when parked". "mechanic's dream" is another side buster.

It doesn't look like you could go any deeper dished than you have now and still clear the outer fender lips. The size information should be embossed or etched into the existing wheels, so if the 15s are the same width, the offset should be the same for the same fender clearance. You could go with a 15x6 or 7 instead and have a different offset to keep the outer edge, dish, and fender clearance the same as you have now. The offset usually has an "ET" prefix.

I see from your pic an led lamp assembly and a typical headlight bucket ring. I can't tell from your pic angle if there is a bucket behind it or not. If the back side is smooth and domed, then you have a bucket. Usually, the bucket is what attaches to the car below the headlight with a single vertical stud or bolt. Take and post a pic of the back of the light that also shows the attachment to the car.

You guys are having too much fun. I doubt you have foam. Foam is an accessory for racing tanks but can cause more problems than it is worth, breaking down (from age or incompatibility with the fuel used) and clogging the fuel filter. I'd rather have slosh. I suggest removing the tank and fuel level sender to wash out the tank. Check that the float arm moves freely (not heavily rusted), the float still floats, and the resistance value changes smoothly and gradually with the arm position.

I don't see an exact replacement currently available but these look similar and come as a pair for $52, shipped. A potential issue with any is the depth clearance in the bucket. https://www.ebay.com/itm/354873373115?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20231102134756%26meid%3D314306d81b7f4a0c9b3ba41a7c6c232b%26pid%3D101506%26rk%3D24%26rkt%3D25%26sd%3D381006279335%26itm%3D354873373115%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D3458402%26algv%3DDefaultOrganicV9BertRefreshRankerWithKnnNlpV3RecallFitmentPromotionM2&_trksid=p3458402.c101506.m1851

I have tried many different led designs and housings and found many problems. I prefer to use H4 halogen bulbs in a Hella 6024 E-code lamp assembly for right hand drive countries. The ideal system imho is a projector with an led where low beam is partially blocked by a door. Selecting high beam actuates the servo, swinging the door out of the way of the full beam. The door is the shape of the cutoff. I've not seen anyone make this system to go in a 6024 7 inch housing. Do you want to match what you have or get a new pair of lights? Get DOT or E-code stamped lights; glass lenses if available.

It is tuned to make peak hp at 6000, but that is about as high as I would ever consider taking it, considering it is not OHC. I'd probably detune with a less radical cam and softer springs for longevity with pushrods and low-zinc oil.

This paint combo (blue cover, bare head, red block) is not unique among BDR 1600 Cats.

Here is a pic of the same engine with two different engine positions.