MV8

Interesting data, but using an obd2 scanner adds a number of variables and the sensor/sender was used as a reference; not checked. To check the gauge, all you need is the sensor spec chart, a dvm, and a $5 potentiometer. Check at the sensor conn and the back of the gauge if it is off much. If it reads high, add resistance in parallel with a potentiometer to determine the necessary value to cal.

If the cable end clip on the chassis is not used, a typical hand brake could be used with an adapter to attach to the two existing fastener positions. The cable could be rerouted if needed to change which way the handle swings.

The fan control settings determine how hot it will get. The thermostat opening temp should be 5f or more degrees less than the fan OFF temp, to ensure the fan will cycle and not stay on. The fan ON temp should be 10f or more above the OFF to prevent short cycling the fan. The greater the coolant capacity and/or cooling efficiency, the slower the temp changes / cycling will be. These may be ecu controlled on your car or a standalone sensor. If it is ecu controlled and you can't change it, a standalone sensor could be used. I prefer a 180-192f stat temp.

I've bought various hella lights from these folks: https://www.rallylights.com/hella-5-3-4-round-e-code-hi-lo-conversion-headlamp-kit.html These look ok for lamps but may not have much of a low beam "cutoff" toward the centerline/on-coming traffic: https://www.ebay.com/itm/292716679385?hash=item44274610d9:g:kF8AAOSwWUBcQk6~&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwB09826FuxvWcy5b8gQ%2F7o1MkURoA1uHHslJonVQYpfdwLloexlWpc1CcYDtYDVsOkMEv0Y5y4hBnrtEmLtjjqqTwqSy%2BOHgLSk3IaBuqRhbsYIIlgV%2FdBNfwcCu9iaYPzT7YJqM%2FD4qpynhIiuXArXUyxtZN1eV6TC30Ww65Xm09v7fjFa0uvOzrwRIdUv1ZZEJnjx075LReL1JYTiH10CcxH1WJuRsXxbuOvPYXk2d5hWUMkLQqUz67cjgfRWFFA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4LoxtTmYg In glass but no apparent pattern judging from the back (more like an aux light than head): https://www.ebay.com/itm/175535853904?hash=item28dec09150:g:LjIAAOSwWq5jnDB-&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwFaJ%2F6M9nVn1X48cA%2FATE%2F3ebrfwKbFEZS%2B%2FkIbSobnGrE0cHm4k%2FiWWrVKCZt6u4DFaZ4m55UCzFNynF9gQANFcOrLiBXr7dii34lWQaRij3NP4yRCN%2BLCytDBIhLedS6WDNkZBZildpbA31159C%2BlCeVy9g0sPnGy43Qrk6TcdFT04qjQN8cB31gzXIIiFsucNPWMSZNaF085JTw%2BgI3kJCJPRTMKU7QKvzO2PT%2B%2FrgkyNxBX7ydxHBcfJFsbMNQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5LoxtTmYg I'd rattle-can clear these then make a mount block (aluminum blocks are about $17 each with a set scew): https://www.ebay.com/itm/145122577371?hash=item21c9facbdb:g:pGMAAOSwLVpjM~4Q&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwCMIRFqMDctSR2JPzjlaJOBvtAYIXnhcqxgCK6f6g2V0H2C23wqZpSNsgn9c0dndhqs0fdRSPinHK6M4Mht0%2Fvh2ABJ0Ou9HC3a8k9FV3G6r4XrHqNtophtED5JiCJ8FzC3%2BrLCBC4Irrc2o7uaPbvSMTAS8hG8vWs2NWRR0A8SvTn56EqY47DzS%2BH7%2Bc9cO5t5l29aLdug99F90zVOqQNeLGnUXkqJB0IkDN28Rt2Pxb7lcqvTd9XZd0mWkYJNFwg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6TG2NPmYg These look ok. Chrome may last a long time on a garaged machine: https://www.ebay.com/itm/125603065688?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110025%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.COMPOSITELISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20220405142716%26meid%3Da7764d38ff9142c8961fdc3f9f60a9f3%26pid%3D101506%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D25%26sd%3D233739723110%26itm%3D125603065688%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D3458402%26algv%3DAlgoIndex5SimRanker%26brand%3DUnited%2BPacific&_trksid=p3458402.c101506.m1851

It could be cost effective to repurpose components and make a new body if needed. From scratch is a bit more involved with the gear cutting but still doable for a working if not authentic handbrake.

You could fit cheap, bottom mount motorbike 5-3/4 buckets (re-paint them or at least clear coat before installation if not stainless) then use DOT or EU lamps for a country where they drive on the "correct" side of the road. A glass lens with H4 socket would be nice. Checkout Hella for excellent quality lights.

I don't know if you missed this conversation:

Operating strobes when not acting in an official capacity is usually not legal. Equipping with strobes may also be an issue. It varies. Check your state code. Even if it is legal, you will probably be pulled over anyway. Make sure you are not acting in a way that would normally be accompanied by the use of strobes/flashing lights. If any traffic ahead gets a glimpse of a strobe flashing, expect it to drastically slow even if not speeding. Some states have low speed vehicles that are required to have strobes. As for monster trucks, there is no PC cure yet for Napoleon Syndrome. Why do I drive a tiny car? I'm compensating. How many clowns does it hold? At least one. Seriously though, sometimes it is better to get away from tailgaters or noticeably bad drivers by pulling over for a moment, don't cross railroad tracks, don't leave the house, etc. Like poo, keep it at a distance and try not to get any on you. Gas stations are another problem. I've approached drivers in suvs about to leave to ensure they know the tiny car is sitting at the pump behind them.

My perspective is different from most. I've been mounting and spin balancing my own tires and running these sizes daily (street only) for about 20 years. The "waterfall" tires are good. I also prefer a 13 to a 15 (more sidewall and generally less weight) for such a light car but bigger wheels look better parked and other folks while moving. If it came with 15's, I'd keep those on. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Waterfall-Eco-Dynamic-175-70R13-82-H-All-Season-Tire/210293704

Looks good. I've used similar (needed bed fender well clearance for modern ram wheels on a 70-80s D100) with no actual problems after years of use. The only issue I found is the spacer/adapter studs and nuts were not what they claim to be as for as size and pitch. The studs are non-standard so there is no oem stud I could replace them with (different shank od) and the nuts are also proprietary but the fastener material and quality was adequate. Just a consideration.

Based on the label, it looks like PN 73316 which is the "Ford Crossflow" listing and identical with the exception of no fan mount welded on: https://caterhamparts.co.uk/radiators/2653-radiator-aluminium-for-ford-crossflow-engine.html If your going to weld on mounts and use universal hoses, a racing civic rad popular with locosts would probably fit and cost about $120 for a three row unit. I have one sitting here for something else (not a civic) but not installed yet if you'd like pics and dimensions.

Hooray! Solder is all that really holds copper-brass together anyway. Totally serviceable if you can find parts. Just the fins are copper.

Looks like somebody was jumping on the seat at some point. For a mostly hidden repair, I'd drill a hole on each end an inch past the visible ends of the crack, then tig from drilled hole to drilled hole. If it cracks again, consider adding another layer/doubler of .050" on the inside, bottom leg one inch wide and the upper two inches, perforated with holes (floor not drilled, just the doubler), then plug weld the holes.

I won't use the word "buyer". My understanding is the "winner" of the auction purchases a reasonable obligation for the seller to communicate which could end up in debate of terms and events before a third party. Think of a telemarketer that the seller agreed to interact with for a period of time and it may come down to party stamina. Can't sufficiently vet who might win an auction. Just another consideration. I'd use emails versus phone calls or at least follow up every call with email (i.e., "meeting minutes") for documentation with reasonable deadlines repeated as a footer/signature in every dry, direct communication, converted to pdf/print and archive everything as a permanent record.

I'd use DOM (actually work hardened by the mandrel ERW). RHS (rectangular hollow section) is only in ERW. Metal recyclers often have "new" steel sales. I keep a variety of sizes and wall thicknesses on hand to best fit whatever I'm doing without extra fab work.

On some bikes, the radiators curve around the wheel. Provides a little more core area than flat.

Probably not very helpful, but I've seen more spandex than I care to at Walmart (mostly big girls). Looks like a can of biscuits popped. How is your day going?

I'm experienced, but having another person to do just a few light duty tasks would have been able to offset my driver's incompetence to where I had enough time and energy to get it perfect. Even so, I'm satisfied with the outcome. Looking at the end result, it looks like they actually provided the 7.25 I ordered but charged me for 8.5 cuyds (closing the gap to #1's cost). I gave #2 a shot. One, and were done, so back to using #1.

How about an accessory upholstered panel that drops in between the tunnel and lower seat bolster? Easily removed and no mods to the original seats. The lower edge of the cushion matches the curve of the top of the seat bolster and the top of the cushion just clears the belt and hand brake. It can be as thick as it needs to be. There could be one on each side.

Story time. I ordered concrete from the #2 ready mix supplier in my area, mostly because they are significantly cheaper and I love to pinch and invest pennies (kids, that's the shiny things on the ground people are too lazy to bend over to pick up). I've not ordered ready mix in probably 10 years but it was always with #1 and has never been dramatic. I requested the ready mix last week. I had to wait until today to recieve the load in the AM. I get a call from #2, asking me what he told me and debating how much I was ordering for the slab. I checked three sites with calculators and also performed the math myself resulting in approx 7 cuyds. He insists on 8.75 yds. I compromise and say 8.5 thinking it might appease, but no. He says it's on the way, I say "thank you!", then he hangs up (standard practice for him but unusual in the South, bless his heart). When he answers the phone, he lets you know his name then the name of #2 which is the same. Did I mention this winner is running for mayor of our village (every village has one). So, my load arrives. The driver doesn't back up as well as he could so the truck chutes don't reach as far. He informs me that I cannot hang my chute on the truck chutes, along with a lesson in engineering, but it is their truck so no argument. I left it on the X brace, he starts the pour, then proceeds to completely over load it and dump out the sides (to be fair, it is hard for him to see sitting on the back of the truck). I expend considerable energy removing the chute as the clock ticks on the mix. I proceed to spread and level the remaining via wheelbarrow at around 300lbs a pass, trying to roll through the concrete he dumped across the center of the pad. Took about 20 loads to hit what the truck chute could not reach. Since time is of the essence, I return the wheelbarrow each time, then run back to what was dumped to rough level, then run back to grab the next load. The driver lifts the chute straight up to stop the remnants but does not swing it to the side, so I get ready mix on my head and down my back each time. Once the form was filled, I had another half yard or so, which I planned for, and made a pad under the water spigot behind the house. I managed to get everything placed and leveled by myself, but just because it was unusually cold this morning and the plastic vapor barrier slowed the cure. I would have liked to spend more time on the edges, but there was no time or energy left. The cost was about $1700 for over 33,000 lbs of ready mix. No charge for the customer service. So now I wait a month or so, then order my mostly enclosed carport, building a back and wall and front for a 16 foot door.

Thanks for sharing those pics!

I wonder if the gen may have a path parallel to the amp meter. Tim, is anything besides the starter switch and amp meter on the negative side of the battery?

Since you have a volt meter reading what it should, I would ignore the amp meter. Echoing JB, does it read zero with A battery terminal disconnected? What about when the key is off? Even if it does, it could still need calibration. It is a magnetic indicator with a single loop of wire. If the loop is not equidistant to the needle base, it could deflect more one way than the other. Looks like a post rotating in the gauge housing could do that. It could be safely tested out of the car, wired in series with an accessory (like an cooling or heater fan) and a battery. Do not place directly across a battery as it will melt the copper loop wire inside. Some good info with great pics: https://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?PHPSESSID=a62e89f5fe022a4e7051b0998baac507&topic=4840.0

The meter reads gen output amps (charging) versus the demand amps (load). Tim, are you checking volts at the gen or across the battery?

That it reads more negative with a greater load doesn't make sense if it were wired backward. Sounds like it is out of calibration.