MV8

Thank you all for sharing your opinions, but Bruce is free to share his own under the terms of a forum. There is nothing to correct. Negative attempts drive discussion toward the politics of policing alternative points of view (a form of fascism). It then comes down to debate skills and ultimately nobody walks away happy or better educated. For example, don't mention steak either as some members may be semi-vegan on Tuesdays? Just about almost triggered? HA!

The articles mention of "nil vertical loads" makes a good point. The Mumford does not generate a vertical lifting force on one rear corner the way a panhard does under load whenever the chassis end is higher than the axle end. I think any RC movement should be minimized (practically with the overall compromise) for more dynamic stability/feedback to the driver. Lateral RC migration typically increases the distance to the CG (RC shifts inboard/away from the corner and CG), decreasing roll resistance as the cornering load increases because the CG has more leverage to act on the RC.

For those who don't know, a "dampened" gauge just means there is an adjustable restrictor in the line (like an aquarium valve) to reduce the needle swing. Smaller displacements, fewer cylinders, and cam specs all have an effect on the actual numbers but the nature of the chart is still useful. With separate runners, the lines could be tee'd (i.e. manifold) to a single gauge for an overall indication without restriction/damping instead of four "thumpers".

If it is one cylinder reading a bit lower steady vac, it could be that cylinder is not pumping as efficiently as the others. Timing would be suspect if it were a vac reading from a common manifold and not individual manifolds with the same ignition setting across them all. For those without a chart, see attached.

Thanks. I have not modeled the Mumford. I wonder if the roll center stability is both vertical and lateral. The height adjustment is nice to complement an existing IFS RC height. Here is the full page with the missing text. IRS components fitted to a three link version of a De Dion (two lower, one central short upper to a rigid rear tunnel) and located by a Mumford seems to be ideal all around, short of a five link IRS or semi-trailing config for heavier/higher power applications like the rx7.

Lots of potential here. "Book" width chassis of 42 inches though the front seems shorter than normal, 2nd gen rx7 turbo irs, mustang 2 ifs, '80s 14x6 ranger wheels, Nissan turbo four with 5 spd, haltech elite ecu, civic rad. Rework the rear fenders, make new front wing mounts, lower the upper control arm pivots on the chassis, bump steer, general spaghetti under the bonnet, flex pipe exhaust, fuel tank vent, and general housekeeping. I suspect the ground clearance to the oil pan is minimal. Looks like unusually long coilovers on the front got in the way of typical headlight mounting.

Sounds like the ital needs the center section pulled for housing repair anyway, so you have everything needed to figure this one out. The real fix imho would be to go with a ford. What is the distance between wheel mating surfaces (WMS) for these axles? I'm guessing about 55"? Probably the best thing to fix what you have the right way. Lots to consider with axle changes. If you can't grind out all the braze, I'd use alum/bronze rod to braze weld or just braze if sufficiently vee'd for surface area.

I've not seen any cats with a boot bat. I've seen some locosts where the bat was moved out of the engine bay but most regretted the decision due to terminal access (which can be addressed with a bulkhead positive stud and extra wiring). The scuttle shelf is about as close as it can be to zero polar moment but floor level in front of the pax side foot well is probably as good as it gets for cg height.

I'd been watching. Not much warning between listing an auction date and the actual sale. I also checked with shippers that normally pickup from auctions. One refused after looking at the condition. It's just as well to a good restorer, since I'd want to change everything mechanically.

Leakage at the slip yoke should be sealed within a few minutes of running (outer tube runs cooler) unless there is a really sloppy fit. I'd put it in the collector.

The typical order is to have an MSO for the product, titling as a motor vehicle after inspection, insuring for road use, then registering requirements specific to your county. It would need to be trailered/towed until after registration though I've heard of permits to drive (within your state) to an inspection for titling. I doubt Florida will provide a permit good for driving cross-country.

Both can be bent successfully. Reversing takes a few more steps.

Wemtd, I'm thinking that this is the haltech 1000 elite hardware since the 1000 nexis would use the latest software and the sport 1000 is a platinum for "plug and play". Oilteq, Make sure the fuel to coolant temp correction table is enabled/checked. The table should chart temp versus tps and not temp versus map (map is probably the default table). Make excel or word file notes of any changes you make to enable or adjust so you can easily go back.

I suggest not changing anything but temp/time correction factor. The mixture the engine wants doesn't change with temperature; just how much reaches the cylinder as vapor. There should be a percentage of enrichment based on the first 30-60 seconds of starting. An example would be a correction of 1.10 (10% richer) at 60F for the first 10-15 seconds (or 1.25 at 30F, etc), gradually decaying to nothing between 10-15 and 45-60 seconds. Percentage should also gradually decreases along the temp line as it approaches 180F or whatever your normal operating temp is. EDIT: Hooray! Look what I found:

Different versions. It may be easier to use an aftermarket screw-on sandwich based on the filter thread and size. https://www.therangerstation.com/ranger-tech/ford-ranger-2-3l-ecoboost-introduction/

Ditto. I'd just cannibalize the existing cable and replace it with new and add synthetic/red wheel bearing grease to the new one. When the cables get dry as the old grease breaks down, the speedo needle will jump for a while before something like this fails. Old cables can work indefinitely if re greased when the needle starts jumping.

Is this in the transmission or the adapter? Strip of .050 sheet metal drilled 1/8 and placed over the stem, then spot weld with a mig welder.

I remember you adding the baffling to the radiator and it being a very good heavy duty radiator but some bent fins on the right side that need to be straightened with a small flat screwdriver. What model cooling fan do you have? I think you may not have an appropriate cooling fan. There is a lot of junk out there and the list of good ones is very short. Oem fans are generally outstanding but don't retrofit well. If possible, for now, reduce the boost level until the cooling is under control. An ecoboost comes with a sandwich cooler, an aux pump, and a much larger surface area radiator. Make sure the cooler was not left off. Reducing the ambient intake air will just make more power=BTU to be cooled.

Step 17 in this process was to have the engine warmed up. You can snug the interconnections and start over using choke and/or throttle to get warmed up or instead of starting over, turn both throttle screws in a half turn or so, start, then back them off evenly as it warms up to the desired warm idle speed, chokes off.

I see. The PO could have made a shim plate and two gaskets like Joe; probably 0.250 thick to avoid removing the pot locating lip. The plate holes would be precisely drilled and locate on the pot center lip so the stability would be maintained but obviously not made to fit both the pot and a stat.

I've read that too, but coolant flowing at a greater rate will cycle more and improve cooling efficiency up to a point. The greater rate becomes an issue if it causes cavitation.

Sounds like the wrong thermostat was installed or the gasket was between the head and stat. The stat flange od should be 2.125", with 0.88" above the flange and 0.78" below. The flange should seat against the recess in the head. PN 13006 or 13356 should fit and open at 160f.

No pics in this topic. Look at this 116e head. Lotus may not have used a stat, but Ford used a thermostat with these engines. Wear is greatest when the engine is cold from tighter clearances and an overly rich mixture falling out of suspension, trying to reach the combustion chamber, with the excess fuel washing down the cylinder walls.

The head opening where the water neck /swirl pot/filler attaches should have a thin step so the thermostat flange can sit flush. If the head does not have the step and the neck swirl filler does not have a step, then it wasn't equipped. The pot or head could be flycut or two cork gaskets used with the id opened up to clear the flange on one gasket. If you have the heater valve open before warm up you might as well not bother with a stat. Stats do fail and can leave you on the side of the road when they stick closed.