MV8

They are not always correct and not a "fix all". There is more going on than how much 02 is in the pipe at any given moment. They can be dialed in but many have had a decent map, then used closed loop which quickly ran worse and worse with untimely feedback and/or under the wrong conditions. It can be made to work well. I'm sure Tom has all that covered.

A skid plate that is 1/8 thick steel and say 14"x16" would be under 8 lbs. A sump could have guards plug welded on. A little more ground clearance or donut bump stops on the coilover shafts to reduce the bump travel a bit?

Used to be able to pull up letters from mfgs to NHTSA with a complete vin break down of all options. Not so easy now.

Not mine. The slab is too flat. Just fyi.

I did not. I'm guessing no Caterham in that.

$99 for a member to look? Generally the cost is a percentage of the bid with a minimum of $700 or so plus other fees that copart charges where others do not. Then there is the transportation cost (est $1000 for me). If it can't be picked up quickly for any reason, daily storage fees begin. May or may not end up as a salvage title, which can require a license just to be inspected depending on the state.

If the grip fails later, it can be recast in urethane or epoxy resin if you keep the pieces for a mold. Easier than bakelite (phenol/formaldehyde/acids in a pressure pot). Same goes for rubber bits and lenses but the chems are fairly expensive. 3D print and wood are also options.

No. A bit more formal back then.

Install/load the backup copy on to the ecu hardware via the emerald software. It sounds like you have the documentation on how to do that. No dyno or tuning to switch back, just computer skills.

I'm sure turbofocus in NC can help you and he has experience with emerald. Your first focus should not be more power on a dyno sheet but proper afr for the loading and no detonation from too much timing for the load site. Closed loop automatic adjustment should be locked out until you get the base line acceptable. Just use the wide band for real time and datalog monitoring for feedback on what to change. Bike tuners may not be able to strap the birkin into the dyno but they may be more receptive to learning about emerald. They can sit in the pax seat with a lap top and make changes while you drive. Plenty of bike shop tuners in FL that could use a side hustle. Good thing the first tuner guy didn't get to touch anything.

Just following the discussion, but I was just curious about "replaced o2 and associated wiring". Did you replace the narrow band with a wide band input to the ecu? I assume you are running the Emerald software.

#6: "K-A-R-120-C! What's the engine number?" #2: "Do tell me." #6: "461034TZed" #2: "Marvelous!" #6: " I know every nut and bolt and cog! I built it with my own hands!" #2: "Then you are just the man I want to see. I've been having a good deal of overheating in traffic. Perhaps you'd care to advise me?"

There is a discussion topic here about the change back to subbie with the previous owner in Hunstville. I don't know about the original links, but the optional upgrade links are adjustable length; 5/8" aluminum hex tubes with spherical ends. I don't remember what was driving the push to revert. With all the original parts (including the correct length axles) installed, I would jig the hubs to ride height at the original track width (tire center to tire center) and camber with zero toe-in (because it is easier and not critical right now), then adjust each link eye-to-eye to fit without moving the hubs at all. If a tube is too long or short, it can be replaced or trimmed and the threads chased.

For those interested (I understand it doesn't quite fit lengthwise). Uncle Brent "living the dream". To hear it run, fwd to about 8:50. EFI build pull without turbo, 38:30.

He said there was much disappointment since people were expecting it to be like the Bond films with a mystery man unveiled at the end, but it was not about that at all. It was about the evil within. That's why he unmasked himself as #1.

The "Prisoner" edition Cats were offered from '90 to '01. They have a special chassis number prefix, steering wheel center cap, and a dash plaque. They were available in all configs from engine-less kits to an R500 turn key. There were 47 produced. Patrick McGoohan received #6 at the 1990 Birmingham Motor Show.

A great variety of expansion and overflow recovery tanks have been fitted to various models with different engines over the years. However, I've seen three BDA Cats with the same overflow tank in the same location, plus it is ideally sized and located for the space, so I think the odds are very good that it is oem. Rubber hose through a hole drilled in the top of the tank, forward of the cap and the hose will reach the bottom. Vented tank. May be a small hole in the cap.

That's impressive with interesting details. No wasted space. Floating rear wings attached to the quick change axle with a bottom watts link. Power steering.

Awshucks, Scott, make these guys work a little! Fwiw, in my experience, sellers often don't except the winning bid after the auction and come back with a counter or simply relist.

You could: 1) use two standard graphite gaskets cut across the center bolt hole to butt together. 2) use copper or aluminum .050" sheet to make a reusable gasket.

I won't debate semantics and will use some of your terms. The height of an expansion tank, which is part of the "pressure zone", is important if it is to be the fill point. An overflow recovery tank's height, which is what you are describing, is not a factor. They also pull from the bottom of the tank with a straw. As I said, no seal and it doesn't work very well but it will flow back to a degree, just as I can do the same by blowing across the top of a straw in a glass of water. I agree a system with an overflow recovery tank should have an outer seal to be fully effective. You didn't answer my other questions but that's ok. Moving on.... If the neck depth is 20mm/0.787", then standard, domestic caps should fit fine for depth, since they are made for 3/4" but to fit a 2-1/8 od neck (SAE "A" standard). I don't know your neck id. '60's Austin Healey, some Mercedes, and British Fords had 1 inch deep necks with 7 lb caps. I don't think they had recovery tanks or outer seals. Edit: So you may need a stant 10237 or a 10337 if you want a lever pressure release.

Well said, Yoram. I wish you a speedy recovery. Happy Thanksgiving.

Looks like an extra long, ball-end /"wobble" allen key would help. Also installing the outer, lower header bolts finger tight, then a strap from across the valve cover could help support the intake weight while trying to get the center bolts started.

The caps do work better with a rubber upper ring seal at the radiator neck rim for when the center disc is pulled down on it own little spring during cool down, but many caps do not have one. Bubbling in the neck during warm up? Cooling fan ever come on? Temp indication? Bonnet and nose off generally improve cooling efficiency.

Nice. I have a small, cheap bench metal lathe. I've been looking for a second-hand bench knee mill under 500 lbs and a 6 inch or bigger rotary table or power feed with DRO. Not worried if 3 phase. Maybe an Enco?