MV8

I would expect the Rotus '80s Tercel manual rack to be about 20:1 and four turns lock to lock. I expect the power rack version would be a direct fit and have a quicker/lower ratio, but it should be "depowered" and will have a torsion valve for the power system that might cause a slight delay in pinion gear rotation. Another option would be to fit the spitfire rack. I suspect this was the rack used on early Cats. A new spitfire rack is available with a quicker ratio. Another option is to install a "quickener" typically used for racing along the intermediate steering input shaft. They can be sprockets and chain or gear to gear in a machined housing. Either way there will be a slightly delay in rotation depending on tolerances and may not have any built-in adjustability. Another option is the old spinner knob on the rim. A joke yes, but very useful in some maneuvering competitions in the UK. I'll look for a video...

Like many sites, it is not entirely accurate. To use tire tread width as the only reference for determining acceptable rim width is misleading. Tire mfgs list specifications for each offering and they are not always the same rec for the same tire size. I find a 1/2 inch wider than the spec'd nominal rim width to be a good compromise for fitting, bead retention (low tire pressure works against this), and handling. For a manual steer, street driven seven that may encounter pot holes, I suggest a 6 inch rim for less unsprung weight with a higher cold pressure and more offset/ET for the scrub and still a 15 for upper ball joint clearance.

They seem to have all gone to 5 bolts. I don't expect the bolt circle is the same either. I like the stainless marine cylinder type with only the float exposed to water/fuel. Limited options on matching the resistance to your original gauge but there are converters. Consider adding a vent port to the cap neck or a tee between the tank and cap, then it should never be under pressure to push through the sender flange hole. If you must weld or braze the sender flange, it will lose the fuel resistant rust prevention. Another option is to cut a 1/8-1/4 thick aluminum ring the od of the sender flange, then mill a clearance groove for the original flange, making a flat flange above the gasket, but it might require longer screws.

I'd never recommend Hither or Thither. I hardly know those guys. If they get a hold of an aersol, the paint may lift and fall off!

I'd pickup cork gasket material from online or the local auto parts store if they have it 1/4" thick (though thinner may be acceptable), then trace and cut out with an exacto blade. Doesn't need to be any larger than the sender flange. Looks like a curious cat pulled on that one. Make the gasket id as small or a little smaller than the tank opening.

Another consideration (several actually). Don't have to have an accident; just have an alt charging regulator fail.

Technique is very important. With no more info than you've provided, I would put the link in a bench vice between soft material or rags to hold it, use a 12 inch adjustable set to the width of the eye body, wrap a wet rag around the rod end shank protruding from the tube, then heat with a propane torch the tube a couple inches away from the shank, moving the torch around the tube for even heating for a minute, then slip the wrench over the eye and apply light pressure while continuing to heat the same area. If that did not work, I'd use a penetrant and try rotating it deeper into the tube instead of out initially, then back out. If it still doesn't work, I would use a gas welding torch careful not to over heat the tube but I think a propane torch could do it if you apply it long enough. Don't compensate for too little heat by applying extra pressure to the rod end. Enough heat and it will let go. Keep the rag wet to keep from softening the rod end shank so it snaps off. Chase the threads in the tube. You might take it to a machine shop before breaking off anything.

I've not seen a VC for this engine that was smooth on top (no ribs) before. Maybe it was machined to add lightness. You may need to mill for the standard, three ear oil fill cap or fill via a bolt-on, engine mounted breather canister (if there is no material inside to aid oil-air separation). A new steel pan and pickup could be made that addresses potential problems with ground clearance and armor at the front and bottom plus add baffling, a scraper flange, and trap doors around the pickup. Rail flanges can be cnc cut and provide a convenient straight edge for the sides. The tube for the oil relief valve helps to reduce oil air entrainment (whenever the valve happens to bypass). The pickup does not need to be spring loaded or have screened area up the sides which can pickup air.

JB's reference is what I was referring to as being easier to find, but each of these are from different, period articles that show the pivot base. Pivot or fixed low mount telescopic is unlikely to be of much use or stable when extended compared to a high cup mount.

I've seen this one installed on vintage photos but I don't think it is still produced. Are you looking for a fixed height and angle type? Those are easier to find.

If one can't be sourced, spitfire heaters are still easy to find used for about $100. A new box can be made and the parts rearranged to look like an original cat heater. Some info:

You could remove the bowl tops, drain and clean the bowls, remove the needles, then with a rubber tipped air hose nozzle and a small air tank and/or mini-compressor, blow from the needle side back into the bowl, then clean the bowls again. I always add filters to small engines and valves to shut off the fuel flow so they can burn most of the gas out of the bowls instead of shutting them off electrically. Minimizes ethanol problems.

It looks like your control arms are correct for the traditional hardware shown. The bonded bush arm would add a longitudinal tube from chassis pivot to chassis pivot. To prevent dynamic caster changes from lateral anti-roll bar movement in bump and roll, some have added clamp collars around the anti-roll bar inboard of the chassis mounts and plastic thrust washers.

It sounds like someone swapped out the hardware (maybe to fit the older control arms?). Do you have the tube added across the legs of the control arms? Here is the correct trunnion with bonded bush from cat: https://caterhamparts.co.uk/other/3992-trunnion-rh-live-axle-1998-onwards.html

Those do look better. 185-60-13 versus 225-50-13? Spare hoop integral or does it slide off so you could fit new hoop for the new tires without chassis mods?

I expect you have bonded bushes in the front trunnions, located with set screws instead of the traditional triumph hardware. An indicator is a cross brace on the lower front control arm legs. The distance between the trunnion flanges on the arms is narrower. If water is not kept well displaced from the trunnion, the upright can rust to make a abrasive paste that can sand/wear down the trunnion threads a little with each turn of the steering wheel. Y16s on the live axle A frame have are supposed to have a 1/2x3/4 (x1/16?) washer between them. There should be a steel washer between the bushes and flanges if they are slotted to prevent the bushes from extruding and being cut by the flange slot.

Don't know. I expect it would be the small od of the Y16 bush, id of the inner sleeve, with length determined by taking the control arm tube length minus the depth measured with one bush held in place lightly, multiply that by two, minus 1/8-1/4 for some preload when installed.

A concentric hub pilot is usually more accurate but we are only talking about a very small amount of run out (more in the tires and some rims). It simplified wheel installation for emergency installation on the side of the road by less technically inclined folks and is usually lug centric with conical lugs. When a conical lug, concentric hub wheel is used on a hub without a pilot, it is not dangerous but it may have excess vibration (like a bad tire or bent rim) if not installed properly by lightly seating the lugs and rim to the hub, then raising the torque in steps to spec for the stud size in a cross-pattern. A concentric hub also provides some additional stability but if all the lugs are torqued, it isn't needed. I remember when lug centric aftermarket wheels had thick aluminum center sections and lugs with washers/no taper as well as unilug washers with slotted rims for multiple pcd. Tires were not great either. Some things are much better.

From what I can see, that is a well made spacer/adapter but the socket head hardware is too long or should have a fully threaded shank and likely damaged the threads in the hub, though that is not what failed. I'd determine if the threads cut into the bolts extend beyond the adapter face or if they were just repurposed for this (either way, replace with correct length). I think those strands are aluminum from inside the wheel hoop as it departed. I expect loose lug nuts and snapping of the two like Fastg suggested. I try to avoid spacer adapters, but I have a pair on the rear of a full size dodge d100 pickup for late model ram 17x7.5 stainless wheels to clear the d100 inner fender/bed. 3.55 axle, 727, 318 with long tube headers, no issues for the five or so years they've been installed. There are plenty of junk adapters, spacers, and improper selection and installations but it can be done properly. This is fine.

Based on recent events, I though it might be 60 going on 12.

Depending on how it goes, chocolates and nylons? (just a supply and demand joke) Interesting to hear them talk about their experience.

I don't see any down side to Terry's design. I like what I've seen with some Cats having a watts trailing arm system on the de dion for zero roll steer. For a live axle, I'd like to see three watts or two and a mumford with a sliding torque link next to the trans slip yoke, with the lower coilover attachments offset to the front and rear and lower for longer coilovers and springs, all attached to axle tubing with a hand full of bell cranks and a dozen sphericals. Definitely not as elegant and clean as the cortina trunion or spherical A frames though.

Looks good. A little phosphorus metal prep mixed with water in a spray bottle will slow the rust monster for less work later on. I see the four link trailing arms will be outboard of the chassis but short enough to be covered by the rear wings/fenders.

Under $10 each (for six consecutive issues) to your door or go digital: https://www.themagazineshop.com/classic-sports-car/

I've not seen that before; a telescopic upper link. I assume the thin diagonals off the lower uprights are the coilovers. The wheels would move laterally. Reminds me of a formula vee "zero roll" resistance system where the rates are just enough to keep it off the ground, though I'm not saying it would work that way.