Alex-Ks1

That might be a BRAKE FAILURE switch , not stop lite switch

Check across the terminals with a test light probe , one side will always be hot , press on the peddle the other terminal should lite up . If not , switch is bad or no fluid . The brake lights normally run through the turn signals switch

Look on the master cylinder for a button looking thing with 2 wires ,that will be the brake light switch ,if it has a hyd switch

It's probably all about ratings , or it doesn't generate readers or Viewers It's not reported or pushed back on page 35 next to used lawn mowers . News agency's run on advertising money , and viewers and readers buy their products . Just look at the Ukraine war ,it's filled all news head lines, now after long fighting, it's lost interest . Like just now , Fox reported Russia hit a govt building in Kiev . 32 seconds . Then spent 6 minutes on a foot ball team winning their first game . whoop de do . It's all about the money .As I see it

What ever you do , don't buy Chinese crap , they all degrade in time , they might look good and are cheap as dirt but junk

for what it's worth . When I built my 7 ,service was #1 with me , . I built the dash assembly off the car, all the electrical was with 4 disconnect plugs ,1 bolt for steering , 6 ,1/4 inch pop rivets ,3 on each side holding it to the body . It was even painted before I installed it If I ever have to pull the engine ,trans, take off the dash, 10 minutes . Then unbolt the engine and if comes out with out lifting the car .Every bolt is easy to get to and no ultra tight fitting

Question , and don't jump down my neck , Is your car actually running hot to cool to hot . Computer cars love to give false info . Try this .. disconnect the NEG side of the battery , hold the brake pedal down with a rod or something for about 10 minutes , this will drain all the capacitors in the ECM . Turn the KEY TO ON .reconnect the battery . This will reset the factory settings to default . I had to do this a lot when I had my shop . Using a scanner to clear codes sometimes does not work . Or they keep coming back, change a quoted device and the problem comes back ?. Non computer vehicles brake down. Easy fix .computers degrade in time and have nervous brake downs..... Just a thought

First things first, pipes , lots of pipes ,and a hands on set of plans

My 7 has Gen 1 GPS ... It's called a map .it too has no computers , V-6 ,Holly carb ,T5 , 5 speed . Dirt simple , it works

Got it thanks ...

Any one out there know of any black market Aerial Atom plans . I have the itch to build one .

I own a 83 S-10 Chevy , it has never let me down , I just change the oil every 3,000 miles , trans fluid every year . When I restored it as a frame off . I put the engine I wanted in it , the trans I wanted , even re did the interior the way I wanted it . No computers any where in it . It's running about 250 HP. And still gets about 22 MPG . the paint is what I wanted . Rear end is my choice .3.08 posi . And it's fully rust free . All of this was about 1/10 the price of a new POS . When I was doing it nothing came from china .I made sure of that

Mine was always over heating , only fix with out spending tons of money for a customer radiator was to weld two Rads together , simple job for me . I ran it untill it reached op temp then let it cool down .then added coolant , I did this about 4 times until it was full when I took the rad cap off . After I ran it and let it cool back down Now the temp on driving hard reaches 180 then drops to 160. Mostly stays in the 160 range while driving . But that's just my fix.

Lotus was over heating all the time , a V 6 with 10.5 to 1 compression. Radical cam and lifters , heavy duty valve springs, aluminum heads ,headers . The radiator was a new Honda V6 . Only one that would fit my build . I couldn't go taller , wider so fatter was the choice. 3,000$ for a customer built Rad. Screw that . I bought another Rad and welded them together using 1 inch aluminum tubing on the top and bottom. My welder would not support a TIG torch. But I have a spool gun . Then smeared JB weld on the joints for extra protection. It worked and works fine as frogs fur .always in the 160° range . Now I can use it as built, under full throttle this thing screams

with that much weight in one place on your wheel, the tire is probably out of round . or slip it 180 degrees on the rim, re balance . with that much weight in one place on the rim, at speed the car will shake the pain off the body. Who ever did this for you, does not know how to balance tires and wheels . PS. I bought black market plans for a Aerial Atom . thats the next project, V8, twin turbo . cant live for ever

Your correct to a point ,, when this EFI crap brakes down then what ? Take a every day car on the road ,if it brakes down the repair cost is so high ,I have personally known people that just let them there , I also know 2 mechanics that left the ford dealership where I live , they are sick and tired of seeing the crap that comes out of the factory's . For fuel economy it may be just great , I don't care if gas goes to 10$ a gal , if you need it your going to pay the price ,

Most engineers forgot the pointy end of the screw driver goes to the screw. Example ,,, simple has few letters , complexity has a lot ,,,, simple isn't it

just remember,,, complexity is the mother of all screw ups , simple always works

15 grand $ and you take it away

the rad 2 inches , the fan blows like a whore on navy day . my fork lift Rad is much larger than this honda thing by a long shot .the grill is a aluminum mesh , very thin webbing . no heater at all, both pump and heads are blocked off. Even with my tornado shop fan it started running hot just sitting . . Its simple the radiator is just to small for the engine, it has 10.5 to 1 comp ratio, high lift cam, even my own built headers, The mox nix fitting of cardboard wont fix anything. and the electric fan will blow the paint off the hood, its none of what your telling me, . I need a 4 inch thick rad. no one has any for sale this size and im not going to spend 2,000$ on a custom rad. Ill sell it first

HA. I see its my car, any way I have a 12 inch electric fan on the out side, it runs at 30 amp, I did call a large radiator place in Wichita, they do a lot of race car and NASCAR stuff, he said he could come out and look at my car, He could make any size radiator and as many rows as it could fit.. I sent him all the info, with measurements and photos, his price,, 1500$ to start and 300 $ an hour plus parts and material. I think its time to get rid of it. I will look closely at your baffle set up. I still have the S-10 radiator the engine came out of, its twice as big as this radiator on my 7.

mine is having a heat problem . I have the largest radiator I could find to fit the front frame, . I have a V-6 , it gets got fast. I tried different thermostats and even made a water restrictor . A round plate with a 3/16 inch hole where a thermostat would go, Still runs hot. My last effort will to buy another radiator like I have now and hole out the upper and lower tanks and TIG weld a 2nd radiator in front of the first Rad. twice the water cooling in the same outer diameter , I have lots of room in front of the now existing radiator

is what a kit car ?

i say, Its a lotus 7, its fast as hell, at lease mine is, and its totally unsafe. but its a ball to drive, that always wins the convo