Alex-Ks1

I build electric conversions have been since 1974 during the first oil embargo , what I can tell you is here no one will take a dead LiOnP4 battery , or a car size Ni Cad battery , so your stuck with them .No recycled batts on that line

This is your government at work , a collection of nitwits and idiots who know nothing about electric vehicles or the power grid . Just wait till one of these clowns tries to sell or buy a older gas powered car ,, the law will hit the trash bucket real fast

Did some more work on my 7 first I installed a master clutch cylinder that lad a longer stroke , the old one was on the floor to release the clutch , re did the timing , and went for another ride , temp never got to the middle of the gauge , oil pressure stayed at 70PSI all the time . It ran great even at 75 it was smooth and still responding to more gas . I'm gonna put some more miles on it then put it up for sale , It was to see if and how long it would take to build . Given the fact I had to do everything , rebuild the engine , trans , rear end . Bla bla bla, paint it , do the sheet metal work , make seats , and all wiring , I can guess it would take about a month to do another one . The hard thing is finding NON CHI COM auto parts , you get what you pay for ,,

This is very interesting, a few years ago I belonged to an Electric vehicle fourm , like this thread it went on for a years or so . It's was about weather a tail gate up or down would be better for driving with regards of wind resistant, so some said , Up some said Down , no one was sure if it made any difference, So an aerodynamic engineer was asked to put it to bed once and for all. He took a members converted S10 all battery power and did as much testing as he could , then he finally got permission to use a wind tunnel , some place in California, where he is located , test after test built up reams of paper work .... Now he posted his results ..... IT Doesn't Matter, ......up or down the results were the same ,so range was the same and speed was the same as with the tail gate up or down , just a lot of wasted battling back and forth ,,,,, like here now , does it really matter ? ... You are not storing the car for two hundred years . But it's your car do what ever makes you happy

either way you wont notice any difference. there are simple rules to follow, 1. just build it and drive it 2. If the enemy is range, so are you 3. if it works, don't fix it 4. parts that go together are shipped separately

in my shop if needed I have a 5,000 lb forklift, I had fork extensions made to lift the 7 in the center. then I can move it anywhere. Even outside if I need to . I works very well for my APP. If need be I can lift it 14 foot up LOLOLOL. I only used this a few times, the shop is large and can hold the 2 delivery trucks were converting and 4 other cars

So , it drives great noisy as hell ,flames shoot out of the exhaust pipes that's because of the cam size overlap, no big thing ,looks cool at night , and I'm doing the fenders now , I'll have them shaped and painted this week end , this photo is in the ruff , the fenders still have to be rounded on the edges ,.

Got my new cable , works great and it's not chi com , that's why it works , no sticky peddels any more , runs even better than before And you can controll the carb lololol I was stopped and some one came over and asked me a lot of questions, so I parked it , safer than in the middle of the street . He wanted to know If I could do one with a automatic trans , Sure that's even easier than the five speed stick , and much more room in the peddle box area . He also asked about a 4 cylinder engine , even easier , I shot him a price and probley will never hear from him again . Tire kickers are every where .

Called an aircraft service center in our area , they make cables for light aircraft , they have to be replaced with hours use , and they can't use any Chi Com garbage FFA ruling .so I'm going there today get a core length and a slightly larger outer casing .All US made material I will overcome , adapt , and improvise ...... And I have my front fenders made then paint the hood and fenders

I found the problem ,,nothing I did ,, crap , junk , trash ,garbage , worthless Chi Com junk. With the cable out on a bench , straight, it's smooth , pit the least bend in it , and I'm saying a small radius ,it binds not even a 10° bend . So I'll see what comes to me ,probley more Chi Com crap

All good points , as I'm reading at 2AM , the peddels pivot is totally free and fully floppy The outer cable had a rubber bushing it sits on at the bulk head . There is no burr on rather end The CARB return spring is easy moving with little reverse pull The peddels attachment is no binding fully floppy There's no burr at a cut end , pulled the center out and ran a small drill ti clean any burrs Attached to the foot feed and can It is sticky , unattached it's completely free . Asked a guy at a farm tractor repair this , he said get a larger diameter casing and use the old inner cable core . He said he seen this on older tractors , this fix works and the larger outer csseing uses less friction .. I have to wait 3 to 5 days for a new cable to arrive here

I can take the cable hold it up and the inner core will fall to the floor. no kinks any where, no bends, free as a bird when its not hooked up . reinstall it and it binds, only 2 slight bends on the cable housing, and there not hard bends, I know better. Like I posted, its a small diameter cable housing, maybe a larger diameter will do the trick, already ordered one.

It does it when it's not running or when it's running . I ordered a larger diameter cable , maybe that will help

The car has a weird problem , when you push on the gas peddels it's not really smooth so the car leaps forward , when I take the cable out from the gas peddle it's as smooth as silk , put backing and it's hard pushing , and every time I do this I have to remove the steering wheel. The cable has one bend coming from the bulk head then a turn going between the clutch and brake masters then along the side to the carb. take the cable all the way apart and the inner core falls out , nice and smooth , put it back together and it's sticky , people I have talked with this about haven't a clue what is wrong .Neither do I , maybe a larger diameter cable , this one is very small in diameter .

did you see my build and what I went through?

I'm very curious, what come in a KIT , A fully assembled frame and body panels or is it like what I had to do , make everything my self from scratch I didn't even know there was a kit order option

For what's it's worth ,I have seen this a lot , the engines runs well in low RPMs and at higher RPMS but if a pump runs dry it can have damage that can't be measured unless you know the flow rate .I,have seen pumps go dry then the owner refills turns the key , and the 1 second charge up to fill the lines and injectors kicks in , BUT !!! How can you tell if it had full flow rate at WOT , you can't I have never seen this info published . The car owner will hardly ever notice anything wrong , unless he hits WOT and then never gives it a second thought . After having this problem in my shop ,I always ask , did you run it dry ,, if they say yes I'll tell them it's time to get a replacement . Ford in tank pumps are notorious about this , some will run slow and you will never know it , they also get very hot IN SIDE THE TANK What I have done is remove the OEM pump assembly ,remove the garbage pump and install a out side the tank pump . Safer , easier to replace later . The original pump sender housing is still in use . Works every time . remember the auto manufacturers buy the cheapest parts they can find , use as little as possible people to building and charge the most they can .

This is how it looks now driving on the street , still working on the hood . carb is off for more closer re fitting

There is a formula for this engine with big cam performance valve job, a sort of header . I did all the engine rebuild , it was blue printed to very tight specks It's estimated at 265 HP rebuilt the T 5 trans and rear end it has a 3.08 gear . I through more Chinese crap in the trash that actually went on it , so much was just no good ,

More photos the one showing the hood upside down has a frame work in place and the wood is the matching upper contour of the sheet metal when it's rolled and welded in place . Must have had that on and off 20 times to get it right , then 1/2 inch square tubing is welded to the sheet metal then the long Steele lower hood braces , this makes it very rigid , think I gonna hold it down with leather belts and buckles .

A few more

A few more ,

Ok photos of this and that ...

What do you want to know I have about 200 photos

Took it out again and did city driving ,I could only use 1st gear , it's just to damn fast in any other up gearing , so around town I went . Stopped to fill the gas tank and had everyone asking this and that , and a few asked. HOW MUCH TO SELL IT lolol one day out and it's about to get sold , probley not , I'll keep it a while , After I gassed up and started it , with no mufflers at all , flames shot out of the pipes Two feet from the gas pump , have to think about refilling it ,,