Alex-Ks1

Fiberglass is easy to repair , but sanding and grinding can be very dusty and hazardous to your breathing , I have done a lot of fiberglass work on different things , boats as well , and a few vettes , You can find a repair kit in most auto part stores , usually it had the glass matt ,hardener and of course the resin all in one can, either quart or gallon size . Getting the paint to match just right is like pulling gold out of a chickens ass with a straw

I bought a tube bender for 700$ , it was crap , so I made one , it's very simple and works every time and does not kink the square tubing at all . All you need is some common sense and simple math , I'm useing to make hood braces on my 7 . I machined a piece of aluminum to the under size of my bend radius , then used a serpentine belt pulley as the bending device attached to a 4 foot bar . Mount the one piece to a work table and attach both round pieces to the bar , insert the square tube ,,, after you make correct measurements . Put oil on oth rollers and clamp the tail end of the square tube to the table , then roll the long bar around to what ever radius you want ,, it works every time I did this for less then ten dollars , I sent the Pro Tube Bender back it was crap . I found this on U tube

It's simple, stretch it to what ever fits you comfortable. Make it wider too , I don't recall seeing any rules that state this has to be this and that has to be that , but , this is for building your own 7 , is not a bad project at all , actually very simple

How much does a " kit " cost plus shipping

I take it , it's a complete car , ready to roll

I have to finish the hood on my 7. then its going up for sale. I driven it about 15 miles. and have a few things to work out. It on this web site under my name. all the photos of the build. I build it to see if it was what I wanted, OK now It has to go. It has a GM V6, 2 brl carb and a T 5 trans with a 2,73 rear end everything was rebuilt, all new bearings in the trans . I have made the front fenders and there on the car, I have to make a square tube bender to make the hood bracing, easy new clutch assembly and slave and master cylinder, all new brakes front and rear, Mustang 2 front steering and suspension, all new. nothing from a junk yard, first word in JUNK YARD IS .... coil over shocks in rear all new , Its fast, real fast, If you want more info, contact me here or through e mail

You have to admit , they take ugly to a high level

I can't take this car any where with out a crowd of people standing around it asking questions , it's a good feeling .And most of the questions are ,, how much and where can I get one

Like all laws there ment to be broken , I for one don't think this will fly . I see to many people going against it and it may be reversed if it ever becomes a real law . Electric cars are not the answer ,my company builds electric vehicles and have been since 1974 . There just for a few people that really want them , there not fo every one , and the electrical grid could never Handel the charging load. It will fail and fail big time . recycling is a huge issue . No one will take LiOnP4 batteries or NiCad so now what ????? Like I said ,I build electric vehicles but I don't own one .nor do I want one....

Turn signals switches ,, I went through 5 or 6 , all garbage from China , after connection of small jumpers ,I knew better to wire it in with this crap. No flash either right or left , the lights would light but not flash on or off , the dash indicator would light up too , no flash . So by testing it with a test light ,I found it would flash when the tester was put on terminal P of the flasher , I was told by the person that writes all the soft ware for our electric vehicles says I induced a false ground to the switch unit , true , the flasher gets warm this way but will flash .I added a wire from chasis ground to the turn signal switch it's self ,, no luck , still wouldn't flash So , all these garbage chi com turn signal switches are no good they have no ground connection . Here's the good thing , E Bay had them for 26$ the auto part store here where I live sells them for 98$ . Same exact thing ,, junk , that one didn't work either . It's getting very hard to find reliable garbage

I build electric conversions have been since 1974 during the first oil embargo , what I can tell you is here no one will take a dead LiOnP4 battery , or a car size Ni Cad battery , so your stuck with them .No recycled batts on that line

This is your government at work , a collection of nitwits and idiots who know nothing about electric vehicles or the power grid . Just wait till one of these clowns tries to sell or buy a older gas powered car ,, the law will hit the trash bucket real fast

Did some more work on my 7 first I installed a master clutch cylinder that lad a longer stroke , the old one was on the floor to release the clutch , re did the timing , and went for another ride , temp never got to the middle of the gauge , oil pressure stayed at 70PSI all the time . It ran great even at 75 it was smooth and still responding to more gas . I'm gonna put some more miles on it then put it up for sale , It was to see if and how long it would take to build . Given the fact I had to do everything , rebuild the engine , trans , rear end . Bla bla bla, paint it , do the sheet metal work , make seats , and all wiring , I can guess it would take about a month to do another one . The hard thing is finding NON CHI COM auto parts , you get what you pay for ,,

This is very interesting, a few years ago I belonged to an Electric vehicle fourm , like this thread it went on for a years or so . It's was about weather a tail gate up or down would be better for driving with regards of wind resistant, so some said , Up some said Down , no one was sure if it made any difference, So an aerodynamic engineer was asked to put it to bed once and for all. He took a members converted S10 all battery power and did as much testing as he could , then he finally got permission to use a wind tunnel , some place in California, where he is located , test after test built up reams of paper work .... Now he posted his results ..... IT Doesn't Matter, ......up or down the results were the same ,so range was the same and speed was the same as with the tail gate up or down , just a lot of wasted battling back and forth ,,,,, like here now , does it really matter ? ... You are not storing the car for two hundred years . But it's your car do what ever makes you happy

either way you wont notice any difference. there are simple rules to follow, 1. just build it and drive it 2. If the enemy is range, so are you 3. if it works, don't fix it 4. parts that go together are shipped separately

in my shop if needed I have a 5,000 lb forklift, I had fork extensions made to lift the 7 in the center. then I can move it anywhere. Even outside if I need to . I works very well for my APP. If need be I can lift it 14 foot up LOLOLOL. I only used this a few times, the shop is large and can hold the 2 delivery trucks were converting and 4 other cars

So , it drives great noisy as hell ,flames shoot out of the exhaust pipes that's because of the cam size overlap, no big thing ,looks cool at night , and I'm doing the fenders now , I'll have them shaped and painted this week end , this photo is in the ruff , the fenders still have to be rounded on the edges ,.

Got my new cable , works great and it's not chi com , that's why it works , no sticky peddels any more , runs even better than before And you can controll the carb lololol I was stopped and some one came over and asked me a lot of questions, so I parked it , safer than in the middle of the street . He wanted to know If I could do one with a automatic trans , Sure that's even easier than the five speed stick , and much more room in the peddle box area . He also asked about a 4 cylinder engine , even easier , I shot him a price and probley will never hear from him again . Tire kickers are every where .

Called an aircraft service center in our area , they make cables for light aircraft , they have to be replaced with hours use , and they can't use any Chi Com garbage FFA ruling .so I'm going there today get a core length and a slightly larger outer casing .All US made material I will overcome , adapt , and improvise ...... And I have my front fenders made then paint the hood and fenders

I found the problem ,,nothing I did ,, crap , junk , trash ,garbage , worthless Chi Com junk. With the cable out on a bench , straight, it's smooth , pit the least bend in it , and I'm saying a small radius ,it binds not even a 10° bend . So I'll see what comes to me ,probley more Chi Com crap

All good points , as I'm reading at 2AM , the peddels pivot is totally free and fully floppy The outer cable had a rubber bushing it sits on at the bulk head . There is no burr on rather end The CARB return spring is easy moving with little reverse pull The peddels attachment is no binding fully floppy There's no burr at a cut end , pulled the center out and ran a small drill ti clean any burrs Attached to the foot feed and can It is sticky , unattached it's completely free . Asked a guy at a farm tractor repair this , he said get a larger diameter casing and use the old inner cable core . He said he seen this on older tractors , this fix works and the larger outer csseing uses less friction .. I have to wait 3 to 5 days for a new cable to arrive here

I can take the cable hold it up and the inner core will fall to the floor. no kinks any where, no bends, free as a bird when its not hooked up . reinstall it and it binds, only 2 slight bends on the cable housing, and there not hard bends, I know better. Like I posted, its a small diameter cable housing, maybe a larger diameter will do the trick, already ordered one.

It does it when it's not running or when it's running . I ordered a larger diameter cable , maybe that will help

The car has a weird problem , when you push on the gas peddels it's not really smooth so the car leaps forward , when I take the cable out from the gas peddle it's as smooth as silk , put backing and it's hard pushing , and every time I do this I have to remove the steering wheel. The cable has one bend coming from the bulk head then a turn going between the clutch and brake masters then along the side to the carb. take the cable all the way apart and the inner core falls out , nice and smooth , put it back together and it's sticky , people I have talked with this about haven't a clue what is wrong .Neither do I , maybe a larger diameter cable , this one is very small in diameter .

did you see my build and what I went through?