Alex-Ks1

I'm very curious, what come in a KIT , A fully assembled frame and body panels or is it like what I had to do , make everything my self from scratch I didn't even know there was a kit order option

For what's it's worth ,I have seen this a lot , the engines runs well in low RPMs and at higher RPMS but if a pump runs dry it can have damage that can't be measured unless you know the flow rate .I,have seen pumps go dry then the owner refills turns the key , and the 1 second charge up to fill the lines and injectors kicks in , BUT !!! How can you tell if it had full flow rate at WOT , you can't I have never seen this info published . The car owner will hardly ever notice anything wrong , unless he hits WOT and then never gives it a second thought . After having this problem in my shop ,I always ask , did you run it dry ,, if they say yes I'll tell them it's time to get a replacement . Ford in tank pumps are notorious about this , some will run slow and you will never know it , they also get very hot IN SIDE THE TANK What I have done is remove the OEM pump assembly ,remove the garbage pump and install a out side the tank pump . Safer , easier to replace later . The original pump sender housing is still in use . Works every time . remember the auto manufacturers buy the cheapest parts they can find , use as little as possible people to building and charge the most they can .

This is how it looks now driving on the street , still working on the hood . carb is off for more closer re fitting

There is a formula for this engine with big cam performance valve job, a sort of header . I did all the engine rebuild , it was blue printed to very tight specks It's estimated at 265 HP rebuilt the T 5 trans and rear end it has a 3.08 gear . I through more Chinese crap in the trash that actually went on it , so much was just no good ,

More photos the one showing the hood upside down has a frame work in place and the wood is the matching upper contour of the sheet metal when it's rolled and welded in place . Must have had that on and off 20 times to get it right , then 1/2 inch square tubing is welded to the sheet metal then the long Steele lower hood braces , this makes it very rigid , think I gonna hold it down with leather belts and buckles .

A few more

A few more ,

Ok photos of this and that ...

What do you want to know I have about 200 photos

Took it out again and did city driving ,I could only use 1st gear , it's just to damn fast in any other up gearing , so around town I went . Stopped to fill the gas tank and had everyone asking this and that , and a few asked. HOW MUCH TO SELL IT lolol one day out and it's about to get sold , probley not , I'll keep it a while , After I gassed up and started it , with no mufflers at all , flames shot out of the pipes Two feet from the gas pump , have to think about refilling it ,,

BTW , I have done this many times. most wheel lock keys are lost with time

On this wheel cover lock , why drive your self crazy doing things that WONT work , the lock is hardened Steele , pack window putty around the out side of the area where the lock is , then take a MIG WELDER and weld a nut to it , dirt simple your going to toss the old locks away ... Let the tools do the work

I finally got my car done , had to do a lot of tweeking on some things , the throttle is a bit sticky . Maybe a stronger spring . But when I backed it out of my shop ,it had balls , lots of big shiny balls , so down the road I went. Very slow at first , just off idle Then pushed it a little harder , this car is scary fast , the rear end tried to meet the front end . Letting of the gas ,, then a bit more even push on the gas peddle and it was off like a scalded cat , again it's scary fast . Who wants to live forever So I turned into rout 50 and hit it , the GPS speedO said I was doing 125 and I'm still in third gear ,going into 4th . Damn fast Much faster than I expected . Again scary fast , I'll drive it a while and put it up for sale .The whole project was to see if I could do it and I did .I'm not here to impress any one , some will say this isn't true to form , or that's not right .I can care less what people say or think

I had to make my own headers. no one has then for a 60 deg GM engine V6. I had little engine bay room; it wasn't that big a deal. I made the head plate out of 3/8 steel plate, used an exhaust gasket as a template. there is a muffler shop where I live so he bent a bunch of tubbing that I cut and welded. no chrome no wraps. no mufflers, just loud as hell Just what I wanted

it looks like the battery cab was not crimped, we convert cars and trucks to all battery power and have been doing this since 1973 , No one in the business would ever solder a battery joint. You can buy a hammer crimper at any auto part store, you use a hammer on the striking post and the crimp will NEVER come loose. we use this in a 20-ton hyd press to make our battery cables / BTW the main battery pack fuse is 800 AMP

there is none going on in Kansas, I think I have the only. a 1 car showing is very boring LOLOLOL

The first time I tried to do this I was told I had to tow it to the county inspection station . Ok 200$ plus 50$ an hour to have the driver wait . So after three hours of waiting some clown comes over and wants to see my TITLE ,I said I'm here to get it inspected for a title . He says , we don't do that , you have to make an appointment with a state trooper inspector . BUT they wouldn't tell me that when I arrived there with the roll back tow truck . 350$ wasted . That's when I started calling the State police HQs going from dept to dept to find out who this mystery person is .So I finally find him and call the given number , Voice mail , leave a message ,,, that's all , 4 days later he calls and we make an appointment , and the rest is history . One more thing .I asked him about why is it so hard to do this , He said , they don't want any home built cars of any kind on the road , but they have to or the law suits will fly like crows on migration . When the trooper was at my shop he was taking photos , I asked if was from a file on my car , He said NO , this car is so cool there for me

Yes I have his printed out in my file for the car ,, with this you take it to the DMV and they say , this is not for homebuilt vehicle . It's for already vin number cars from this state or out of state vehicles or trailers. Vehicles that have been bought from a insurance company to be called " rebuilt under Kansas requirements" , Boh me and the DMV could not find anything that covers a car like the lotus 7 , that is built as a home built vehicle , it was up to the state trooper who came to inspect the car made the final ruling , He also said there is no guide lines for a home ,hand built vehicle , The state trooper also said , company made kit cars fall under the same requirements but have a hand up because there in service already from the manufacturer who makes the kit car , It does get confusing

I live in the state of Kansas. it's very hard to get a VIN number and title for any BUILD IT YOURSELF car. there is NO info anywhere with the state web site on this. No one knows anything, It's a state secret. I had to use my wife's car as a guide to see what or what is not needed. My 83 S 10 , is to old, even though its fully restored, I had to search, myself to find this and that. Kansas does not require bumpers or back up lights, Here is the dumb one. If you have a 4-wheel vehicle it must have wipers even if it doesn't have a windscreen???? how odd is that. { I showed a receipt of me buying a wiper 1 is all I needed} head lights high beams good steering working brakes mirrors R&L parking brake of some kind LOLOL fenders optional hood optional mufflers optional seats optional I had to contact the state police to get an appointment to have it inspected. They came to my shop. He did give me this list to go by. He checked all of the above. didn't ask to have it started. but did go over all my paperwork of what I bought and the VIN and numbers on the receipt had to match the motor trans and rear end. He did give me a Kansas ID and VIN on the first try. surprised me . So it has a new tag on the back .... LOTUS 7 and insurance. It will be on the road this week, So read up for your state, ask the DMV questions, they may or may not know

I started doing this back in the late 60s So building cars to me is no big thing . Building my 7 was very easy and didnt take time, Im a certified welder in MIG ,TIG and stick, also build electric vehicles so all of this to me is just another vehicle to work on, Now the reason for this posting is to let people know about all the garbage in the parts world that is out there now/ So when putting a clutch master and slave unit to my trans, I went through 3 of each because they were from some place in the far east. Not Japan. I finally had to go to both GM< for the clutch slave and Toyota to get new master OEM parts, they worked, not to say I'm sane in any way, I bought 4 brake master cylinders, that to came from a faraway land not called Shangri-La .. again, back to GM for a OEM unit, it worked. made in the USA by Bendix. Still unwilling to give up, for the turn signal switch I went to the realm of E Bay. where I foolishly bought the other wonderful parts, that worked for 2 minuets at best. The turn signal used to be made by a company here named GROTE. they make all sorts of truck and trailer lighting. Now they dont make the turn signal switch which clamped to the steering Column . So with the help Of E bay and and very loose check book, bought 1, then 2 then 3 then 4 ,5 ,6, . none were any good, they were made with no external ground. by putting my test light to a terminal on the flasher it would flash. this artificial ground would heat up fast, Just more junk, they gave me a refund and told me to keep the switch, that's the kind of junk that comes from THERE. So, it all comes down to buyer beware. you get what you pay for and if you can! Buy from a OEM supplier and ask where it is made things will work smoother ans better and last

does your car have a MAP sensor, it can be LAZY, I have seen this many times, there made very cheap, You can check it with an ohm meter or just by unplugging it, if the motor misses, shakes, then its good. A scanner will tell the story

A company called US Shift makes a shift , stand alone shift modual for the 4 L60 . I have a restored 1983 S10 with a 4.3 V6 carburator Demond 650 and a full face cam , and the 4L60 ,my daly driver , the trucks has no computers of any kind , the 4.3 uses a old style Buick 231 CID V 6 distributor. The shift modual works great ,and mine came with a CD to run on a lap top while driving to set shift points BTW the photo of the carb adapter is for that photo manifold you posted ..that you can't get ,,, reel in the bait

Glad it worked , usually the simplest of things are the hardest to work out

Yes , try and buy it ,,, I did from speedway , they don't have any and are not reordering them from Edelbrock , maybe 6 to 8 months out . I'm still in the process of making my own . I have don't a few for Toyota 4 cylinder engines that had EFI , made the manifold to use Weber Side draft crabs 2 of them , I like things simple and I don't like plastic engine parts BTW , what are you building now .