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I suspect it would have to be a SV.

2000 Caterham with a Duratec and 5-speed. https://carsandbids.com/auctions/3yALBdG7/2000-caterham-super-seven

I had no idea such a thing existed. Clever!

"Subject to the next phases of development and technical capability, Project V could be brought to market towards the end of 2025 or early 2026 with a target price starting from less than £80,000.” So, a one-off in search of funding. Should be entertaining at the very least.

And I thought *my* car was yellow. Wow!

Yep! They made mounting simple. Nope! I took out one of the fixing screws and replaced it with the DPR piece. Mounting took 2 minutes. Adjusting -- well, we'll see! They're paving our road this week so I'm laying low drive-wise. Hopefully tomorrow I can check my garage adjustments.

Two small updates, one on either side.

They don't permit motorcycles to race anymore, as of 2021 I believe. The cars still go.

It's a nice solution. Mini-splits are relatively inexpensive, and they use almost no electricity. Very very efficient.

My garage has insulation and a mini-split... ...no excuses for me!

I hear you. Compared to the 7 it is fat, sluggish at the helm, and takes up far too much garage space. It is a car meant for making the Kessel run, which is not something I envision in my future. Although it could do that run with a 7 or two strapped to it and not even notice…

The time has come to part with our 'titanium fist in velvet glove'. The BaT auction went live today. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2015-mercedes-benz-s65-amg-coupe-2/

To paraphrase Colin: adding Carroll Shelby might have been simple but it did not add lightness.

Timely thread resurrection. I've been contemplating dry sumping my engine and the battery is currently right where I'd like to put dry sump stuff -- right rear corner of the engine compartment. I've recently re-registered the car as an antique so I can ditch the silly windshield washer tank, plus I have no heater whatsoever, so there is a lot of space up there for a battery. I'm a bit leery of the lithium batteries, they seem to be hyper sensitive to charging parameters and the downside can be catastrophic. My garage isn't anywhere near as valuable as Jay Leno's, and he uses Odyssey batteries, so I'm leaning in that direction.

On the one hand, "not legal for road use" has been on a lot of products for a long time, and there has been a lot of nod-nod wink-wink activity going on. The diesel folk took it to an extreme with their rolling coal shenanigans, one of which I saw occur just last weekend. On the other hand, if a tuner can improve a vehicle's performance while simultaneously keeping it within applicable clean air laws, I can't see where there is a case to be made. I had a <cough> tune on my <cough> <cough> years ago and it passed emissions easily. There were no switches I could flip or flaps I could move to cause the vehicle to go in and out of compliance. I fail to see a violation there.

I'm not aware of any solar options for the SVX. It's a Giugiaro design, very elegant. Most of the US cars have a wing-like thing on the back which IMO detracts from the lines. Big flat 6, automatic because Subie didn't have a manual that could handle the torque. Meant to be a halo car. Sold like molasses -- $30K luxury oddball in a showroom full of $10K econocars, plus the slushbox was not a popular choice. Very hard to find a clean one these days. Timing cover bolt goes clear through. It's not leaking anymore. I honestly think I was building up crankcase pressure before I added the breather to the catch tank; it just seemed to keep finding new places to push oil out. Both hoses going into the tank had fairly snug fits, so it's possible that I was overwhelming it at high revs. I sourced another valve cover which I am going to modify with the breather pipe on the front, at which point I'll remove the goofy dipstick tube rig. I replaced the O-ring on the speedo drive when I resealed the gearbox but I used a generic part from my local Ace Hardware. It measured nearly identical so I thought it would be okay, but it's a plumbing part and might not like being exposed to petroleum products. I still have the part that came out and will try that if I don't find any other clever fixes amongst the Elan/Cortina crowd.

I was thinking about this yesterday as I drove under heavy looking clouds, in the wrong direction, to meet some folks. I was picturing those flimsy rubber strips doing jack squat for visibility. Fortunately the clouds parted and we stayed dry.

OMG a door

Apologies @MV8 I must have missed your reply earlier. Yes, there is a rubber vent line at the back right-hand side of the cylinder head. It turns down 90 degrees. When I got the car it had a hose in it that went to a catch can. I retained that and added the dipstick line, which also goes to the same catch can. Last week I poked yet another hole in the top of that poor thing and put a breather vent filter in it. I also found and fixed another leak; the bolt that fixes the inner end of the alternator bracket goes straight through the aluminum timing chain cover and it had come loose. When I got the car that bolt was missing altogether! I think it vibrates loose. Will keep an eye on it. With all of that done the leaks are down to a few very small drips, which I can live with. Next I need to find the secret sauce for the speedo cable connection to the transmission which, now that oil is not streaming back from the engine, has shown itself to be pretty seepy. I took a drive today to meet with some folks I met when owned an SVX. They have an annual gathering near me and it's fun to catch up. This year's turnout was pretty dismal, but there was a car show going on at the same location so it was still fun. And I was accosted by probably 10 different people asking about the 7! I didn't quite expect that. Probably should have.

I like the style of the second one from the top, looks like a channeled Ford Model A or B. However the windshield is on the wrong side and it looks like the steering wheel is in the center? Hopefully AI will always remain so easy to spot...

I’d say a handful of pics here, to give us the gist of things. Save the tonnage elsewhere that is freely available and post a link here. This is my way of subbing.

I have a Toyota Tacoma pickup truck. Last week a guy on that forum posted that someone tried, unsuccessfully, to steal his truck. The stick shift thwarted the attempt. As for the Caterham, I haven't thought to drive mine to a destination where theft might become a possibility. More to ponder.

I didn't seal the dipstick tube. The other end of the hose is open to the air. Also did you note that the twincam head appears to make use of the factory crankcase breather hole as a return path for the built-in air/oil separator (perhaps it is called a 'breather box')? I may try to find another piece of tube for the built-in vent tube coming off the back of the head. At present the inner diameter is 3/8" and the outer diameter is 5/8" -- fuel line dimensions. I'd like to find something with a larger ID.

I decided to 'fix' the dipstick oil messiness by removing the dipstick, pushing a piece of gas line over the the tube, and shoving the other end of the line into the hole I cut in the catch can. That at least gives it somewhere to go other than all over the underside of the car. Then I took the car for an extended drive yesterday, about two hours. It felt fantastic to be back behind the wheel. Quite a difference from the S65 AMG Coupe I had been driving the day before; we've decided to sell it and I was out making driving videos to use in the auction listing. I'm keeping the 7 and selling the AMG -- that shouid tell you something about what kind of cars I'm drawn to! Unfortunately the minor leak at the front of the oil sump is sufficient to leave quite an 'oil slick' after two hours of run time as it makes its way back over the rest of the pan, the starter, the bottom of the gearbox, and so on. I was hoping to just put up with it until cold weather returned but I don't think I can stand it that long. I'm going to have to come up with a way to either reduce/eliminate the leak or at least limit the mess it can make. Oh - I also figured out 'the ghost in the machine'. I had the car parked in a sunny spot for a while and the horn started chirping. It's done it once or twice in the past as well. The horn button was sticky in its operation due to some flashing leftover from molding the plastic parts. I filed that off and it was smoother, but the horn still tried to beep itself. Then I realized that the (hot, bare) wire connector on the back side of the assembly probably rested a millimeter or so away from the end of the steering shaft when things were assembled, and perhaps making contact when items warmed up a bit. A few layers of electrical tape fixed that. Strange little car.

I should have taken another picture but I *think* the hole above the fuel pump blocking plate is occupied by a rubber drain connecting to the oil separator in the twincam head. It's visible in this picture, if upside down.