slowdude

Clunks, buzzes and rattles are normal. Smells are normal too. I like to think of it like a house, they settle over time until theyre just right, same with these cars. Unless youre constantly refilling coolant or showing other signs of HGF. Just drive it. I tell myself this too.

Slightly Taller tires and a dry sump will fix this. You can only do so much with suspension without screwing up geometry. I just live with scraping my muffler a bit. Look up how the stance people go over bumps, youll have to do that after some time.

Yep, they just take some driving. My lightened flywheel was definitely worth it!

Well. Got out for my 25 mile loop today. Car did NOT misfire with the new crank position sensor in. I need to do some more loops close to home to see if it was truly the crank position sensor. Also dropped new BCPR7ES plugs in, so will try and do longer and longer drives. May have found the culprit.

Green stuff have been perfect for spirited road riding and a occasional track days.

Time for an upgrade to Wilwood? I look at opportunities like this for a tailored upgrade. Motorcycle sock over a master cylinder; I dont think i've seen that in use in practice. If the moto GP guys are doing it, I would. If not, idk what value other than catching the overflow.

Check FCP Euro. A lot of the late 90s land rover freelander parts were on rover minis. My crank position sensor was off an SPI mini but used on 99 freelander.

Ya TPS voltage doesnt sound right to me either. AFR is more likely culprit, especially with your open loop comment.

Looks like the coil. I purchased this and it worked as 1.4 etc are rover mini application. https://www.minispares.com/gcl143-coil-for-electronic-ignition-89-on Edit its out of stock. Any GLC143 coil equivalent should do.

Yessir, needed to take full time away from it to come back. I cant tell if mentally the car is starting slightly faster. Thursday I will try and get out for a lunch drive and replicate the loop to see if the issue persists.

Ah just seeing this now, didn't see you posted that you pushed the seat forward in your whatsapp. Tightening screws pushes the lever back which pushes the pedals towards you.

hazard switch can drive issues with the other switches. Some literature on blatchat would be better to help you here, i dont think i've seen that really come up here. Battery voltage is OK? @Vovchandr his looks like a 1.4 so not a vvc, no cam sensor. I Think he has the same as me, a distributor on a rotor arm off the intake cam. Good point. @Andy69 Check that rotor arm and make sure its not moving. Theres a small set screw below it. Check your coil resistance. When my coil went it was 4.xx, when new it should be 7.3/4xx. Since its the 1.4, youre going to have to look at mid 90s rover mini parts. If you need help on harness wiring on the rear for lights, I think my M579TAB build thread has an overview of the wires you should check.

will need to put a resistor in line to ecu to smooth signal? If its the TPS voltage you think, resistor could smooth the noise out on the signal.

Yep, sorry for not linking.

Went with SPA mirrors plus the uberniche door hinge / integrated mount. Put a rubber grommet in between the ball and the tightening screw on the mount. Mirror is going to outlive the car. If you don't replace. Liquid Nails and send it.

Additional log. took the car out today, ran fine, then the usual misfire developed. AFR was OK, so its not fueling. has to be a sensor which is failing when hot. Pulled the Crank Position SEnsor, resistance of old: 1.35/6 k ohms resistance of replacement: 1.41 k ohms. I'm wondering if the CPS being 15+ years old is starting to fail as the car heats up. resetting the ecu restarts the input from the sensor and allows me to start driving the car again. Adaptive mapping is working though, which is great.

I have a little bit of a drip from my rear main seal after my engine out rebuild (DVA 1.8L K series). I just monitor my oil level. unless its pissing, I wouldnt worry too much. I've spent too much time on my K series to try and make it "perfect".. but when she runs shes great.

Crank position sensor should have resistance. I just went through this on my car this afternoon and replaced my CPS. CPOS on the Rover K series; OLD: 1.36 k ohm New: 1.41 k ohm Given that the sensor is at minimum 15 years old, I just replaced it and will hopefully clear my ECU misfire. I'm in the group of Crank / Cam sensor not reading to tell ECU to trigger. If you have pulled plugs and can smell gas, you know injectors are working. PLugs not getting spark would be due to Crank / Cam sensor.

K series owner here chasing many issues. Sputtering and dying, check IACV, make sure its not getting stuck. If that doesnt work, battery. Clean the MFRU's with contact cleaner (boxes below the ECU). double check your vaccuum lines off the intake manifold, if its a 1.4, there should be 2 vaccuum lines on the top of the intake (if metal or plastic). Also check return hose to front of TB from crank case.

Came here to mention lambda. It may not know how to run open loop which is why its struggling to give air/fuel. the throttle position voltage doesnt seem like too much of an issue. It may be indicative of a ground issue.

Just adding to this (not that you need anything), and I know your pain as I sat out a summer due to an engine rebuild. Bill is absolutely right. I've seen motorcycles dropped at 15mph and if the forks are hit just one specific way, the frame will be out of true and near impossible to get back to true. especially where you're having all this work done, checking the chassis (which are made out of cheese sticks) for any torsional impact will be a massive lifesaver. There's only so much correction an alignment can do.

I have a high light bar like you. I have a soft bits for 7's half hood. It has a plastic rear window-ette which allows you to see the light. see this photo: Red Reflective Panel Replacement item see details

Much larger, and happier update. Went through all of my mental notes above. Did some pin testing, pin 7 is the narrowband and unsuitable for 0-5v input. I started fooling around with the ecu harness - I pulled the blank spot for pin 35 out, and pushed the wire into pin 35. Adjusted the software. Setup adaptive mapping.... and it works. Hope to get some driving in this weekend and further smooth out the fueling.

Looks like a k series with those wheels. Ive got the same dip. I think its because the FIA bar is slightly taller than the hood sticks.

mental note in case I wake up tomorrow and get completely distracted: 1. wideband inputs to pin 7 on the emerald ecu and requires smoothing review on the new controller. Done 2. then set to adaptive loop once engine is up to temp @ 66deg celcius Done 3. update base fueling to be back to -2.5% as it was too rich on idle Done 4. ???? 5. Profit 6. Check with emerald for calibration / afr pinout smoothing email sent to emerald