slowdude

hazard switch can drive issues with the other switches. Some literature on blatchat would be better to help you here, i dont think i've seen that really come up here. Battery voltage is OK? @Vovchandr his looks like a 1.4 so not a vvc, no cam sensor. I Think he has the same as me, a distributor on a rotor arm off the intake cam. Good point. @Andy69 Check that rotor arm and make sure its not moving. Theres a small set screw below it. Check your coil resistance. When my coil went it was 4.xx, when new it should be 7.3/4xx. Since its the 1.4, youre going to have to look at mid 90s rover mini parts. If you need help on harness wiring on the rear for lights, I think my M579TAB build thread has an overview of the wires you should check.

will need to put a resistor in line to ecu to smooth signal? If its the TPS voltage you think, resistor could smooth the noise out on the signal.

Yep, sorry for not linking.

Went with SPA mirrors plus the uberniche door hinge / integrated mount. Put a rubber grommet in between the ball and the tightening screw on the mount. Mirror is going to outlive the car. If you don't replace. Liquid Nails and send it.

Additional log. took the car out today, ran fine, then the usual misfire developed. AFR was OK, so its not fueling. has to be a sensor which is failing when hot. Pulled the Crank Position SEnsor, resistance of old: 1.35/6 k ohms resistance of replacement: 1.41 k ohms. I'm wondering if the CPS being 15+ years old is starting to fail as the car heats up. resetting the ecu restarts the input from the sensor and allows me to start driving the car again. Adaptive mapping is working though, which is great.

I have a little bit of a drip from my rear main seal after my engine out rebuild (DVA 1.8L K series). I just monitor my oil level. unless its pissing, I wouldnt worry too much. I've spent too much time on my K series to try and make it "perfect".. but when she runs shes great.

Crank position sensor should have resistance. I just went through this on my car this afternoon and replaced my CPS. CPOS on the Rover K series; OLD: 1.36 k ohm New: 1.41 k ohm Given that the sensor is at minimum 15 years old, I just replaced it and will hopefully clear my ECU misfire. I'm in the group of Crank / Cam sensor not reading to tell ECU to trigger. If you have pulled plugs and can smell gas, you know injectors are working. PLugs not getting spark would be due to Crank / Cam sensor.

K series owner here chasing many issues. Sputtering and dying, check IACV, make sure its not getting stuck. If that doesnt work, battery. Clean the MFRU's with contact cleaner (boxes below the ECU). double check your vaccuum lines off the intake manifold, if its a 1.4, there should be 2 vaccuum lines on the top of the intake (if metal or plastic). Also check return hose to front of TB from crank case.

Came here to mention lambda. It may not know how to run open loop which is why its struggling to give air/fuel. the throttle position voltage doesnt seem like too much of an issue. It may be indicative of a ground issue.

Just adding to this (not that you need anything), and I know your pain as I sat out a summer due to an engine rebuild. Bill is absolutely right. I've seen motorcycles dropped at 15mph and if the forks are hit just one specific way, the frame will be out of true and near impossible to get back to true. especially where you're having all this work done, checking the chassis (which are made out of cheese sticks) for any torsional impact will be a massive lifesaver. There's only so much correction an alignment can do.

I have a high light bar like you. I have a soft bits for 7's half hood. It has a plastic rear window-ette which allows you to see the light. see this photo: Red Reflective Panel Replacement item see details

Much larger, and happier update. Went through all of my mental notes above. Did some pin testing, pin 7 is the narrowband and unsuitable for 0-5v input. I started fooling around with the ecu harness - I pulled the blank spot for pin 35 out, and pushed the wire into pin 35. Adjusted the software. Setup adaptive mapping.... and it works. Hope to get some driving in this weekend and further smooth out the fueling.

Looks like a k series with those wheels. Ive got the same dip. I think its because the FIA bar is slightly taller than the hood sticks.

mental note in case I wake up tomorrow and get completely distracted: 1. wideband inputs to pin 7 on the emerald ecu and requires smoothing review on the new controller. Done 2. then set to adaptive loop once engine is up to temp @ 66deg celcius Done 3. update base fueling to be back to -2.5% as it was too rich on idle Done 4. ???? 5. Profit 6. Check with emerald for calibration / afr pinout smoothing email sent to emerald

Hahahaha incredible. Replacement wideband came in this afternoon. Going to go out and fiddle with the self mapping feature on the emerald.

You have triumph spitfire front brakes. I run EBC green stuff. Stops the car very well.

same. the slowest of dudes over here.

Important addition.

I like the emerald. It's simple for my brain.

I'm thrashing on my fuel pump right now but I will probably join you with a 6 pack and a lawn chair.

Graham youre a legend my dude. Can't wait to see this.

Discount MG rover spares is very cheap shipping. I buy in bulk. If you need one ASAP you can raid my personal stash..

My guess is we will see a taper / stability in late June/July. Reciprocal tariffs will bring the original tariffs amount down a bit, but still more than we were paying before.

Noted. Will delete. Apologies.

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