TheDingo8MyBaby

Just curious - why did you decide against this? You'll be picking up hot air instead of fresh stuff. I also highly reccomend an oil cooler for 20V 4ag's- and not the factory one from toyota.

Has anyone ever run their filter into the passenger footwell? I imagine it'd be prett loud...but I imagine the air would be considerably cooler...

You can use aftermarket velocity stacks - they should allow you to mount your filter as it is with carbs - or you can run individual filters. Reversing the water pipes will clean up the engine bay, remove a few pounds and take out several potential failure modes due to all the funky plumbing that can leak. The welds look marginal on the motor mounts. The motor is also a good distance away from the mount which is a good long lever arm. The Steel rods are also close together - it looks like it's gusseted in the xy but the z direction doesn't look well braced.

It just so happens that he's Lawrence Stroll's son; owner of Ferrari Montreal and Circuit Mont Tremblant. Still, he's an excellent karter from what I've seen and wish all the best to him.

Sure looks like $80k to me. It actually looks like a lot more than that. Gold discoloration is normal on stainless - and it doesn't necessarily mean anything. Besides - I'll doubt you'll find a used seven that wasn't run hard at some point. I find it hard to believe it wouldn't go for at least double what you've estimated. If the car is a solid runner, I don't see why $80k is unreasonable.

Congrats on your purchase. The 4ag is one of my favorite engines. The sound is phenomenal - especially with the open ITB's. It won't be a far cry from your old kent, just with a lot more power and a 8400 RPM redline. The worst part of the engine is there's no decent transmission to use. Keep your eyes out for the close ratio TRD gearset - this vastly improves the t50. Those motor mounts look a little bit scary. If you want to clean up the engine bay, I'd reccomend reversing the water flow. See this thread: http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=1012

I've had several similar incidents like this happen. It reminds me of the seinfeld episode where kramer sues the woman for making him crash by walking down the street wearing a bra. In all seriousness, thanks. That video is a good reminder to think twice before trying to beat that yellow.

Julian Sage (who is male) is a pretty well known Caterham driver in the UK. Very fast, but as that video shows...very aggressive. The car is not a standard R500, and I doubt it's much of a street car.

I care - especially when you catch them up at the next corner. In all seriousness, I agree with MoPho though. This is always a problem with underpowered cars at hdpe's. It's not so black and white. If you have a long straight, perhaps yes. A lot of your speed can come from braking into a corner and carrying speed through it to accelerate out. Are you really trying to "hold off" people in HDPE's or is this a hypothetical?

The elbow is actually what is called a right angle drive. 95% of the time, the right angle drive is fine and it's the $3 quill inside the right angle drive that has broken.

One thing I notice is you seem to make a lot of assumptions that parts for these cars won't be available much longer. There are SEVERAL places that carry these parts and several that are developing new and better parts (read davebean.com). There are so many vintage lotus/fords still around that there should be parts for years to come (so long as we still have gas to use them). The Twincam kent is a wonderful motor. Brilliant sound and a great racing pedigree. Have you considered taking your twincam and building it to be absolutely bullet proof? Forged pistons, billet crank, electronic ignition, removable water pump, etc? You can get 180HP+ reliably if you do it right. Rebuild the brakes, pull the tranny and have it rebuilt - if it's a 4 speed, it shouldn't be too much work to upgrade to a t9 5 speed (I'd reccomdend a close ratio). Rebuild the rear end and throw a limited slip in. Unless it needs electrical work, I don't see much else that would make the car unreliable. The reason you are having speedo trouble is the speedo quill for your gearbox is much too weak and breaks too easily. Simple solution is to machine one out of steel and you shouldn't have a problem any more. Only problem with doing this is it may snap the cable eventually instead. As long as you keep it lubed and don't run it at any awkward angle - it should be fine. A new cable isn't that expensive anyway.

What Tom is suggesting is essentially a bead seat. You can buy kits here: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=4525

I was skeptical at first, but the more I think about it , it makes sense. They couldn't have picked a better city. Land is cheap in texas and you're not slapping band-aids all over previously built circuits to meet FIA requirements. Why not?

http://www.autosport.com/news/report.php/id/83873 Anybody else in?

Just consider it an easy way to identify the oil on the dipstick after a fresh change. ;-)

Just look up a 72 pinto. It will be the same. I can give you mobil 1's pn when I get home. Doesn't matter much which filter you use - just make sure you use oil with a zinc additive!

You have several options that will fit without much modification: Aldon Petronix Lumenition Crane Mallory Piranha Just make sure you check your timing chain once in a while. It'll be a long time before you need to fiddle with the distributor again.

More than enough. My crossflow only runs at about 7 psi idle (warm) and 30psi at 3k. (though these are taken from the stock caterham guage which is inherently faulty)

Alan, Would this work? http://www.spalusa.com/store/Main.aspx?p=itemdetail&item=185-TS You could always plug the 3/8 npt hole and go to an in-hose unit.

Camry will be 4x100. I'd say the best place to look for 4x114.3 wheels on the net is club4ag.com (though their forum seems to be down at the moment). I just remembered konig rewind is a decent 14x7 -9 offset, 13 lb wheel (offset may be too negative for you) for around $120 a wheel. They also make a 15x7 version. You aren't going to find many performance tires in the way of 15" that will bring the car that much higher than 195/60/14. The common performance tires are in sizes 195/50/15 and 205/50/15.

Here's a good source for all different types of latches http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=LATCH

I've actually heard that this tends to be worse with cycle fenders, but they certainly will help the lift problem. Great looking car and I'm sure you'll have loads of fun with it.

What is your bolt pattern and offset? I believe Rotuses use a 4x114.3 and a 10-20(?) mm offset. Unfortunately, 14" isn't an incredibly popular size anymore so finding aftermarket wheels can be a daunting task. It may also help explain if you're looking for lightweight racing wheels or something just to get you around. Because that bolt pattern is fairly common to old toyotas, nissan 240sx and datsuns you should be able to look in message boards for these cars.

Agreed. It appears you're a wheel collector also. I love the TE37's

http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39735 Thougth this may be of interest to you guys... especially after tax returns.