TheDingo8MyBaby

There's quite a story to that Daytona Coupe. http://www.norcal-saac.org/archive/csx2287.html The car was given a sympathetic restoration and is now on display at the simeone museum in philadelphia

If we're talking about ground clearance, those are diameters, you have to divide by 2 - so it's .3"

That all depends on the size of tire you run. a 205/60/13 would only be .3" lower. Since you're concerned with ground clearance, a switch to 205/50/15 would only be .1" lower. The problem with 13 and 14" tires is there's not a whole lot of selection and finding performance street tires in those categories can be tough.

Miata's are 4x100 whereas he needs 4x4.25. That being said, you could run bolt on spacers with a 4x100 bolt pattern and that whould put you about right for a FWD 4x100 offset (approx +40mm). Although I know people that have run these spacers for years, some on track organizations don't allow you to run them. You kinda have all aspects working against you - both the bolt pattern and offset are uncommon and 16" doesn't seem to be as common as 15 and 17". You may want to look at kodiak wheels and others have suggested barnby's or Image Wheels as an alternative to kodiak.

Have you considered modifying the chin spoiler with the same crease? Maybe give it a bit of a V shape to match the scooop... Just a thought. I must say I love the look of it.

http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/cto/1688622527.html No finders fee necessary. No affiliation.

Is it your main or idle jet that's running to rich? The 1300's were fitted originally with a weber 32 DFE. I don't see why a proplerly tuned 5200 shouldn't do the job. Take it to someone who tunes webers/holleys. They can try different venturis so it won't just be guess work.

+1: I've never much liked the look of super stalkers but that looks excellent with the clams.

Wow, I heard this may be coming last summer but didn't realize it was already completed. How does one go about receiving an invitation to visit?

Your best bet is just to go to a mechanical gauge. The OEM caterham ones are known to be faulty. Here's an earlier discussion: http://www.usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=3913

Fully built Zetec on Ebay. This auction has expired, but I happen to know the motor is still available. You can contact Erik at Quicksilver Race Engines. Usual Disclaimers. http://qsraceengines.com/ http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_rdc=1&item=120551470658&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fshop.ebay.com%3A80%2F%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp3984.m38.l1313%26_nkw%3D120551470658%26_sacat%3DSee-All-Categories%26_fvi%3D1&viewitem

There's nothing like buying a CSR that has the aero bits/pushrods and then sticking those mirrors on it.

Good point Gert, though we do have a favorable anode/cathode area relationship so this may not be so big of a deal. If the driver is light enough, I would guess aluminum rivets should do the job. Something better than chain lube would be something like this: http://www.bergdahl.com/ps-870.htm I've used it on aluminum structures for years without any issue.

Jim, I'm curious why you thought they were that bad. The CF ones shown are the spa design - and the nylon ones use the same lens. Spa design runs almost $90 on pegasus per side. You can find the Spa design for considerably cheaper elsewhere, and racetech tends to be even more reasonable than spa design. I have a racetech f1 style on my caterham. The nice thing was I only had to drill one hole in my windscreen stanchion. In any case, spa style mirrors vibrate, come loose and generally provide a small viewing area. Buy the convex type and just keep a good eye on them. EDIT: I also found this... http://www.raceparts-direct.com/products/other_products.asp?group=Mirrors Not sure what they mean by "kit car"

Sorry, I did mean S2 seven. I should have clarified. The point I meant to make is that fiberglass and thin gauge aluminum will add relatively little to the structure of a reasonably design space frame.

The main advantage of circular tubing is that it tends to be stronger per unit weight when used for a space frame chassis. However, depending on the loading conditions, there can be some places where square or rectangular tubing is the better choice. Strength characteristics of round and square metal tubing depend on diameter, wall thickness and type of metal. In general, it's easier to fabricate with square tubing because it does not take as long to miter all the joints. However, circular does tend to bend better. All of this is a moot point though, if the engineering that went into designing the chassis isn't sound. I'm not saying that it isn't...but it's something to think about. I will say that the fabrication work on that car appears to be very good. Not quite sure how I feel about those paddle shifters or diffuser though. It also puzzles me why some of the tubing appears to be painted and some doesn't. As far as bodywork adding structure to the car - that depends on the material, thickness, fastening and the design of the frame. I wouldn't count on bodywork helping a lot unless you have something similar to a Lotus S2 chassis which practically bends under it's own weight.

I'm a little confused - How does a remote starter bypass the neutral switch (assuming the mustang even had one). Even in my caterham without a neutral switch, it seems like such a stupid idea to have a remote start. I cant really see this being the dealer's fault, unless he gave them specific instructions to keep the car out of gear when turned off. Would it have been their fault if one of the mechanics had accidentally sat on the remote start button?

Wow...the wagon wheels look so much better without the center caps! That's the first time I've ever seen that. Good luck with your search. I'd keep an eye out on this site: http://66.163.168.225/babelfish/translate_url_content?.intl=us&lp=ja_en&trurl=http%3a%2f%2fwww.technicalshophappy.com%2fsale%2fmain.html They seem to have some of the best lotuses in Japan.

Quite a read: http://jalopnik.com/5497042/how-a-500-dollar-craigslist-car-beat-400k-rally-racers

The idea of stalling a wing has been around for a while. I'm not sure that I'd call what McLaren did a technical achievement or simply finding a loophole in the rules. I have a feeling it will be banned eventually. The flexible wing elements (which did the same thing) had their run and now they're banned.

I don't really see any issue with the battery being there. That's pretty much the standard location in my caterham (though on the opposite side). One of the things that scares me is the wiring ziptied to steel braided hose. That stuff is like a hacksaw. I think a lot of things could have been done more elegantly, but this wasn't built to be beautiful. It was built for its "shock and awe" factor, which it most certainly has.

That looks more like a mallock than a 7! Interesting car and for a reasonable price... Only about 11k. Hmmm....

Don't forget submarining with 4 pt belts...

Have him look at the numbering on the block. If it says 711M, I may know someone interested.

Welcome Andy, Unless you're over 6ft6, you shouldn't have a problem with roll bar clearance.. I cant get over how close the front wheels are to the clam fenders. . How much clearance do you have? I imagine the front suspension is pretty stiff.