TheDingo8MyBaby

Formula ford is 5.5" wide. Do not use cantilever tires on wheel widths they weren't designed for.

Looks like the price dropped another $4k on park place. That is stupid cheap!

It looks like the FA missed a shift.

To add to what Jim said, The SA2010 helmets have to go through much more rigorous testing standards than the SA2005 helmets. ( http://www.smf.org/standards/sa/sak2005/sa_k2005_final vs http://www.smf.org/standards/sa/SA2010/sak2010_final ) I'm surprised no one has said this yet, but the best helmet is the one that fits you and your purposes best. This can be hard to do when buying a helmet online. I've read somewhere that motorcyclists are about 40% less likely to have a concussion if their helmet fits properly. You may want to consider increasing your price range by $100 - there are quite a few more options @ the $400 price point.

The spreaders DO help if you have a steel valve cover, but don't bother if your cover is cast aluminum.

Aluminum or steel pan? I've never really liked the cork gaskets for the pan - they still tend to leak no matter what you do. I use a high quality RTV to seal the entire pan (put a thin bead on the rubber semi-circle). I use "The Right Stuff" from permatex. Preparation is critical. The sealant should be applied to the outer perimiter of the Sump & completely around the bolt holes but avoiding an excess that could fall into the Sump. I assume it's a 711 block. If you're really set on using a gasket, Burtons do one out of paper with neoprene end seals. I tend to use 4-6lbs or "snug." The key is not to overtighten, but check relatively often.

Yours? Have you been holding out on us?

Since you said the problem started after you adjusted the valves, are you sure you adjusted the valves correctly? There are hot/cold values. As far as the timing goes, it should be around 10 degrees at idle and 36 degrees after 3500rpm. Make sure you've got the correct mark as the pulleys do tend to chip. An easy way to find TDC is to stick an extension down #1 and rotate the crank until you reach the top of the stroke. Have you tried adjusting the timing back to the standard position? It could actually be 45 degrees at idle (though you would expect it wouldn't run that well period). Here's my take on your questions: 1 - Yes. 2 - Not likely. I've only seen this happen on cars with a harmonic balancer. More than likely the mark is not correct on the pulley. 3 - I cant remember if the standard crossflow flywheel has a timing mark on the flywheel. 3000 rpm is a trouble spot for super sprint crossflows. Do you have an aldon distributor? The advance on the aldon is really late which tends makes the car bog around 3000rpm. Additionally (although it's related to throttle position, not rpm), it could be that the webers are transitioning from the idle to main jets.

http://www.formula1.com/news/headlines/2012/2/13022.html

The rear wings and flat bodywork are similar to mallocks, but the front nose is 7ish. If I had to take a guess, I would expect it's a scratch build.

If fuel economy is your goal, the aerovault is a nice option. The waiting list is pretty long though, I understand. Plus you can say your trailer was designed by the guy that designed the aerodynamics of the cobra daytona coupe! http://www.bre2.net/pdfs/bre2_aerovault_brochure_2011_11_27.pdf?phpMyAdmin=k9QIsjCI-UCmbjFU6X2usBJKjz3

Sorry to continue this tangent, but I figured I'd offer my $0.02. I'm a huge fan of Aim's products because their customer support is second to none. They'll pretty much repair any of their products for free. If you're looking for a low cost, low frills GPS data-logger (and lap time), great option that has a reasonable sampling rate (10hz). https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecId=8780&utm_source=google&utm_medium=productsearch&utm_campaign=gps

What would catch on fire? Do you not have air filters? Are your carbs spitting - if so, why not just have the carbs tuned?

I believe by looking at the wheel, that they are approx 0 offset. The other thread shows you a pretty basic way to get backspace/offset if you'd like to get a more accurate number. Can you measure the bolt spacing? This is done by measuring the distance from centers of the opposing bolts. (Think an X pattern) The bolt spacing will ultimately tell you what market of car enthusiasts you can sell your wheels to.

Are you looking for a specific color? High quality or just a touch up? Is the motor in your car still? I would expect that the rust on your block is just surface rust. A wire brush should take it off. If you're just looking for a touch up in a basic color, high temperature spray paint is cheap and easy to apply - just mask everything and watch the overspray.

I think it may just be the photograph that makes the wheels look like they're different diameter. It also may be helpful to list the backspacing/offset? Typically this may be written on the wheel "14x7 - ___" or can easily be measured. So what you're saying is two of the wheels have the bolt spacing 4x100 and the other two are 4x114.3? This makes it tricky to sell because not many cars use two different bolt spacings.

The Twincam block is slightly longer. More on using a crossflow block here: http://www.lotuselan.net/publish/twink_rebuild.shtml

2 years ago, it would have been tough to find one and it wouldn't have been cheap. Now that formula ford has become formula F, blocks are pretty easy to come by. Check craigslist, apexspeed.com. Ford is actually making brand new kent blocks as well. Can you post some pictures of your Mallock? I'd love to own one some day.

Car is sold. Best of luck Tony - hope you find one that just right for you!

Sale Pending.

It's titled as a 2002 SPCN (specialty construction) per california's SB100 bill

Been very busy for the past 1.5 months, but things are starting to settle down again. Price has dropped to $18,900. Terry - you have PM.

I just had a look at the dave bean catalog. The wheel is 011-H-7120, the center cap is 007-H-7038

Not sure who made them initially, but here's a link to buy a replacement: http://www.davebean.com/Elite14Cat.htm Not sure where you'd find that center cap though. They definitely came on elites - I would imagine they're pretty pricey.

Does your supersprint have the stamped metal or is it cast? I assumed it was cast as it is on my super sprint.