TheDingo8MyBaby

You can get a sense of the answer here: http://usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=8499 Unless it has history near the date of manufacture, I'm afraid authenticity and value will come into question.

Here's another possibility: Your car was dyno'd at 29.92 in Hg. According to wunderground, the barometric pressure was a bit higher on June 22: http://www.wunderground.com/history/airport/KMIV/2013/6/22/DailyHistory.html?req_city=NA&req_state=NA&req_statename=NA More pressure means more air. More air means more fuel required. It's tough to say if that could have caused your problem, but since you likely want reliability over all out power, I would consider richer mains if I were you. The other thing I would consider is different pistons and a different head gasket. Where your pistons failed is the thinnest part. CP makes really nice forged pistons. CP can make custom pistons and can change the shape so you don't have such a thin area. Cometric also makes excellent gaskets and I recommend them over Fel-pro.

Cheers. Thanks. Looks like you can find them on ebay as well under Lucas 576.

Are those 5 3/4" Lights? Do you have any closer pictures of them? Do you mind sharing where you sourced them from? I'm looking for a set for my s2. Beautiful 7, by the way!

Wow - that is an excellent price. If you had posted this 2 weeks ago, I'd be asking you where I could send a deposit.

Hello and welcome. Let me know if you find anything out about SB1763. I just bought your car's older brother (SB1762) and I'd like to know more as well. I'm trying to do my own research, so I will let you know if I find out more. -Geoff

Alan, I have a set of clams, nose and a set of rear fenders as well (in red - no emblem). I was saving them for a future project, but yours seems like a worthy cause and my wife would be happy to get them out of here. There's some cracks and even some splitting in them, so they will need some fiberglass repair, but you're welcome to them if you please. I live in San Jose, (and I'd prefer not to ship due to their size). You're welcome to come pick them up at any time. I'll save them for you.

What year did you run the Mille? I've always wanted to go see it. I've seen your OSCA at the historics in years past. If I see you pitted I'll be sure to stop by and say hello

We also did the road to Hana on our honeymoon. We did the full loop and it took us 12 hours because we stopped at several places along the way. My favorite place in Maui was actually Haleakalā - even if it was 40 degrees and we only had on shorts and a t-shirt. http://i36.tinypic.com/3585jyo.jpg

Unless you're using Bias-Ply Tires at the track, in which case you'll probably want less negative camber.

I did inquire about this car a few months ago. I had several questions that went unanswered, but they did answer this one: me: "Has the car been in any accidents?" seller: "yes, front subframe was replaced after track accident. All measurements are good and no alignment problems" Just a FYI for any potential buyers

I find that I like this shop in Japan every bit as much as the stuff coming out of banks: http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.technicalshophappy.com/&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dtechnical%2Bshop%2Bhappy%26hl%3Den%26tbo%3Dd&sa=X&ei=7LobUeCoJaHoiwKU6ICwDw&ved=0CDYQ7gEwAA

An excellent Chronicle of Sir Stirling - and there's even a Caterham cameo. Racing Legends: Stirling Moss - YouTube

I'm assuming 151, as that's what the super sprints are fitted with. Sorry I cant give you an answer with more certainty, but I'd be surprised if they used something different.

If your foam hasn't gone bad in 7 years, I don't think you have much to worry about there. It's the ethanol in the gas that tends to eat them up - and usually they end up falling apart much sooner than that if they're going to. Are you sure Fuel Safe will charge you $1000 for a new bladder? I would assume it would be less than that for just the bladder (although maybe the 7 cell is a custom size?). You can also send it back to them for repair and pressure testing, but I suppose you really don't have a new bladder at that point to count on. There are a few other companies that may be more reasonably priced you can send it to as well for repair: http://www.hartwig-fuelcell.com/ http://ffc-fuel-bladders.com/?q=repair I've also heard of "budget" racers sealing their cells with a product like this: http://www.kreem.com/fueltankliner.html. I can't condone it, but you could throw it in your bag of tools on long trips just in case.

7 chassis are built the same way formula cars are. In addition to the recommendation by Off-Road SHO, I'd look at any race car fabrication shops in the area.

Great pics and write up. I'll have to look-up bookatrack.com next time I'm in the UK. Does everyone wear nomex for track days there?

Agreed - great work Is that your KPGC10?

I've never really liked the cork gaskets for the pan - they still tend to leak no matter what you do. I also highly recommend "the right stuff". I've had much better results than cork. The sealant should be applied to the outer perimiter of the Sump & completely around the bolt holes but avoiding an excess that could fall into the Sump. Spread with your fingers until you have a nice even thin coat. I don't like to have a bead at all. I assume it's a 711 block. If you're really set on using a gasket, Burtons do one out of paper with neoprene end seals. I tend to use 4-6lbs or "snug." The key is not to overtighten, but check relatively often. As someone else recommended, use loctite.

http://www.crankandpiston.com/vision/the-art-of-drift-two-caterhams-and-an-f1-car/

Keep in mind - Gear oils are measured at their typical operating temperature of 150F, motor oils at 210F - so gear oils and motor are similar in viscosity if measured at the same temperature. That being said, motor oils are filled with raw materials that take care of fuel contamination and dilution, neither of which are inside of a gearbox. While it may work - I don't understand why you would run motor oil in a gearbox?

Berkeley to Los Gatos is more like an hour and change (unless you're headed down in rush hour traffic). While you're down there, enjoy some of the great roads in the santa cruz mountains I've also heard that walnut creek, pleasanton and santa clara DMV's are pretty good as well.

My guess would be weep hole of the water pump. I would run the car on with the nosecone off... You could also tape a paper towel to the water pump to see if it gets the towel wet...

My guess would be weep hole of the water pump. Is there a reason you can't turn the car on with the nosecone off? You could also tape a paper towel to the water pump to see if it gets the towel wet...

Here's the steps I'd take: 1. Coolant System Flush & Confirm thermostat opening, check gauge for accuracy (caterham OEM gauges are not stellar) 2. Water Wetter 3. Cooler Thermostat 4. Fan Upgrade.