TheDingo8MyBaby

Did that car previously have a single downdraft setup? It looks a lot like a car I had previously completed a PPI inspection on in Los Gatos, but it had a downdraft and the large circular filter stuck out of the bonnet. Great photos! Thanks for sharing. I really enjoy doing multi-marque rallies and the California central valley and coast offers some fantastic roads for an event like this. I previously ran the Faultline 500 in my seven which goes through the same area and it was miserable. It was 105F+ degrees in Parkfield. I'd rather drive in the cold any day (so long as it's not hail). I agree 17mpg is low. My old super sprint used to get 25mpg on the highway. One thing I've found is that DCOE's are always stinky, no matter how lean. Another downside of a wet sump with a crossflow is oil starvation; I found the best solution was a dry sump setup.

I have 14LF's and 8" drums out rear (and a 0.625MC). The prior owner installed a proportioning valve plumbed to the drums and it is worthless as the car will always lock the fronts first. Generally I thought 14LF's and 9" drums is a pretty balanced setup. Are you saying that you have too much rear brake or too little?

This is the same car: http://www.simplesevens.org/1158/1158.htm, but now seems to have a 1600 vs. 1500 as was originally stated.

Petrolicious has featured a couple of Lotus Seven S2's, one of them mine. https://petrolicious.com/articles/gallery-go-behind-the-scenes-on-our-1964-lotus-super-seven-film-shoot https://www.flickr.com/photos/delfino89x/albums/72157660724181769

Typically there is a small plate either made of metal or plastic with one (metal) or two o-rings (plastic) between the carbs and manifold. They're called soft mounts. They're also typically mounted using nylocks with thackery washers or soft rubber bushes. As long as the o-rings are in good shape, you should be able to reuse them. removing the carbs is very easy. Just make sure you don't spill the fuel out of the bowls. The tricky part is mounting them without over-tightening the mounts so they still flex. If you have the thackery washers, it's a good ideal to measure the distance between coils before disassembly so you can torque the nuts to get that same distance on the coils. You should also be prepared to re-sync the carbs.

This video makes me wish my little pre-crossflow kent could rev to more than 6000rpm. That being said, it's a pretty close experience to driving my s2. I'm motivated to go drive it now!

It was ~$32.5k before rebates. $10.5k off from VW, $7.5k federal, $2.5k state. This was back in September 2019. I think our power company also gave us an $800 rebate for buying an electric car. That being said, I know where all these "rebates" come from. There was also the added benefit of using the carpool lane, but that isn't quite as valuable as it once was. I'd spec my Mk1 escort with either a Duratec or a BDA (if not my daily) and a CR Type 9 5 speed. Steel Bubble arches, 13x8 wheels (or the 13x7 campagnolos on my 2002 now), LSD, Full Suspension, Quick Rack, etc. I've been wanting to import one for years, but california air resources board makes importing cars from 1968-1975 difficult, even though they are smog exempt.

I'm not driving much these days but enjoy getting out when I can. My daily is an inka orange '72 BMW 2002. It's well built/reliable enough to drive everyday and I prefer the styling to more modern cars. While the power is decent for getting around town, I can't help but compare it to a seven and would love to have more power to make it a little more fun to drive. Can't decide if I should build the engine or wait to buy the mk1 escort I've always wanted. We have a 2019 e-golf we bought for ~$12k brand new (with rebates). It's an incredible car for what we paid for it. Great for errands and taking the kids to school. My wife loves it and drives it most of the time. Our 2014 Acura MDX does tow duty and family trips beyond the range of the e-golf. Lately it isn't seeing much use.

I run the Ajusa FB731 on my 1700 precrossflow. It's a a nice quality headgasket that I've had success with. With the 83.5mm bore and pistons just proud of the deck, I'm more comfortable using an 84mm gasket than something closer to 83.5mm.

There is a yahoo group called sidedraft central. The gentleman that runs it (Keith Franck) sells his own weber parts which myself and others have had great luck with. He has a lot of great tutorials and troubleshooting resources up on the group page. Glad going to 50's worked. Tip-in seems to be the most common challenge most face with webers. Generally it is a combination of idle jets and progression holes. You may have luck getting closer to perfect with Keith's tubes.

It looks like hillbank sold it and may have more info? http://www.usa7s.net/vb/showthread.php?9895-2013-Caterham-CSR260

Just a note (so as not to confuse someone and probably doesn't apply to @DatsunBRZ), if using the formula type 6 point belts, the anti-sub belts can be mounted on the same location the lap belts. In my S2, I sit in more of a reclined position (partially to get my helmet under the roll bar) and run the formula style belts mount where the lap belts. I also run 2" shoulder harnesses and Croc's conclusions are the exact ones I've come to.

There were a few other companies that have made dry sump pumps for Kents. Pace and cowsorth to name a few... That oil pressure is extremely high and that may be why it's leaking. What is your oil temp? It's possible the relief valve is stuck. My oil pressure only reaches 80 PSI when completely cold at 3000 rpm (running 20w50). At 3500 RPM and up to temp, it drops down to 40PSI.

Assuming that the engine is in basically sound condition and therefore the rings are not allowing excessive blow-by, then what you are experiencing is the oil being mechanically thrown out. The breather is directly above the eccentric lobe on the cam that drives the fuel pump. I've never seen a breather like that. Most kent's use a breather block and route the pcv hose out of the breather into either a catch tank, the intake, or back into the rocker cover. The latter removes 50% of your breathers though.

very nice! Are both ceramic coated? I use 3 different tools to tighten those bolts: one shortened hex-key wrench with a ball end, one shortened hex-key wrench with the shalf bent at a slight angle, and one of these. I use a socket and extension on the hex keys just to be able to apply more torque. It also helps to have dowel pins on the intake manifolds, but it's a bit late for that. You'll want to check them occasionally as they do tend to loosen.

The dedion/front upper wishbones were options in the kent powered cars up until the early 2000's I think. My old 1999 Supersprint was equipped the same way as this car.

I forgot to ask - do you have an aluminum dry-sump pan or a steel one? Here are the saddle seals I was referring to: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=10906 (Rear in this case and there is a note about the aluminum vs. steel pans). If is leaking from the rear main - removal is definitely required. Doing an on pan underneath the car isn't fun but can be done. It all depends on how much access you have. You may be able to loosen the motor mounts and move the engine to get to those hoses. without completely removing the motor. I like to use a very small amount of "the right stuff" by permatex where the flat gaskets meet the saddle gaskets. I used loctite aviation No 3 to secure the cork gaskets in place. Some people say good things about Cometic gaskets, but I've never used them. 80 PSI is high, but not awful. Your oil pump likely has a pressure release valve you can try adjusting. I once saw a 65 mustang with an industrial ball valve pumbed into his sump tank. He had a big note over his ignition key that said "Did you open the sump valve?!?!" Even then, I'd be worried about the restriction of the valve.

How much oil pressure do you see? I think those are the hoses that run from the front cover to the head. You can try snugging them down, but they may need to be replaced. I don't think you will be able to add AN fittings if I recall correctly. Since you mention both a tank and a sump, I assume you have a dry sump system. My concern about that valve would be its restriction - especially since they do not provide any specs on it. I have a similar problem on my dry sump system. Since my sump is behind the engine and relatively low, I store the car with the front end up which keeps the oil in the tank and prevents it from draining into the sump. If it has been a really long time, I sometimes add a small amount to the sump before start up and crank without plugs. I've been considering developing a priming system (theoretically it can be done with a pressure sprayer or commercially available priming pump). If you fix the problem of the oil draining into the sump, your sump leak may not nearly be as bad. Oil pan gaskets are always tricky on a kent block. I prefer the rubber saddle seals over the cork ones, but you need to make sure that they meet the flat cork gaskets correctly to get a good seal. I am also a fan of studs on the block to better locate the gasket/sump during assembly.

Thanks, Josh. Derek Bell is certainly who I meant.

Scary where they're lifting it from. especially a S2.

I still use skinny bias ply tires. You guys don't know what you're missing out on. Derek Hill's Seven (His first race car) is probably my favorite. There are guys today that still run less substantial roll bars.

I'm fairly certain the car from Maine is a 70/80's caterham. The only things that look "right" are the wingard taillights. Interesting that it does't appear to be running a front arb. The Bonham's car looks like a real lotus, despite a few few minor details (e.g. steering wheel, tachometer). The chassis plate doesn't appear to be original, however. The description is written by someone who has no idea what they're talking about (desirable alloy hood? Twincam?) I wonder if the John Watson has confirmed the number stamped on the chassis corresponds to SB1401.

Lovely S2. I'd suggest removing the Frame # from the ad and photos to ensures the value is retained for the next owner. By posting it, you're essentially giving others the opportunity to make copy.

205 is a bit wide on a 6" wheel. 185 is perfect. Pirelli CN36 are a modern soft compound; I think you'd like the handling and feel, but the sidewall is a bit tall at a 70 aspect ratio (although close to your original 16" spec). Avons are nice, but quite expensive. I'd vote for the Toyo R888R in 185/60, if you can live with the change in diameter.

Try Pirelli CN36 in 185/70r13. I've been really happy with them on my bmw 2002 and they have a great retro tread pattern. performanceplustire.com has free shipping. Other options are Toyo R888R, but may not be the best for street driving - especially if you encounter rain often.