TheDingo8MyBaby

I've heard good things about the ppg s2000 gears - even the synchro version. I wouldn't recommend dog engagement on the street. It's not cheap though. Straight cut gears sound great in my opinion, but they're tiring at freeway speeds. I've seen people use a helical top gear with straight cut other gears, though I'm not sure that can be managed in the s2000 box. I know a few people that run G-froce and tremec boxes on the street. They do offer a lot of interchangeable parts that make them more comfortable for the street. The nice thing is part availability, but certainly aren't inexpensive either.

Good luck! I'm a kent luddite myself, though I have the pre-crossflow variety in my series 2.

How is it any different than any other oil chance that you do? Other than you probably need to add an extra 1/2 quart or so...

I just purchased caterham parts through beachman racing (BruceBe on this forum). Communication was excellent, shipping was fast. Will absolutely do business again!

My S2 doesn't have the original mount, but here's a better picture. http://i57.tinypic.com/2zpimj9.jpg It's pretty easy to fabricate a bracket. I have a synchro transmission out of an elan that has the block. I used the elan rubber mount and fabricated a flat plate. For the dog-ring transmission without the block (like you have), a $15 Jaguar E-type motor mount (which by the way are the same for sevens) was easily modified to suit and I used a slightly taller bracket.

Why bother when all you have to do is fit hardened valve seats? You may as well since it sounds like the head is off anyway...

It's possible, but more difficult work since you're working upside down.

Here are my findings: Valve cover: I like rubber gaskets if you can get them. I generally use permatex "the right stuff" and apply only to the worst surface. This allows you to crack it open when needed for valve adjustments. Do not over tighten, but this is less critical with cast covers. Oil pan- paper or cork will work, but I really like the rubber half moon seals for the front and rear covers. Again recommend "the right stuff" by permatex. I've also used studs at the four corners of the pan which helps keep the gasket in place while tightening. Again- loctite and do not over-tighten. My pre-crossflow doesn't leak any oil, actually.

I can't say what coilovers used are best for this conversion, but I can provide you with my recent experience purchasing coilovers. I've spent a considerable amount of time looking for the right coilover for my car. Originally I wanted an adjustable shock that was rebuildable in the USA. A local shop near me worked on Penske and Koni - so I preferred to go through them. The challenge is I was limited to 1.9" ID springs based on the amount of room I had. If you can fit larger 2.25" ID springs, your options are considerably more. QA1 and Viking were some of the options here in the states, but based on my reading, the valving is not really appropriate for a lightweight car, and the differences between settings on two shocks could be massively different. The challenge with a solid axle rear LSIS is that the sprung weight is very low compared to the unsprung weight of the rear axle and these shocks are valved to suit a range of cars. In the UK - I heard good things about AVO, Protech and to a lesser degree, GAZ. I did a bit of research and all seemed to have the problem as above. After doing a bit of googling, I came across a company called Procomp who cater to a lot of the locost and westfield sevens. I gave them all of my specs (sprung weight, unsprung weight, motion ratio and shock length at ride height, desired travel wheel rate) and they provide a custom built shock for me with the valving appropriate for my application. With others - you may only have 2-3 clicks of adjustment that are appropriate. The best part about it is - they use modified pro-tech dampers and will provide you with a print out of the shock dyno for the same price as if you ordered through protech. I did consider going double adjustable, but it was double the price and with the appropriate valving, I wasn't convinced it would be worth it. If I was autocrossing the car and wanted to set the rebound for roll during quick transitions, I probably would have considered them. For 400GBP total, I feel my money was best spent through protech. I haven't yet received them yet, but they will be couriered over from the UK in checked luggage later in January and I can let you know my impressions after I get them on the car. (I'm coming from Spax though - so any shock will likely be better!) Another challenge is shipping as procomp will not ship internationally, but a courier service such as transglobal express is a reasonably priced option. Goodluck in your search!

That 7 above has been for sale for a LONG time with few details at that price. May want to check the frame number matches SB1844 with the historic lotus 7 register before purchasing as there are a number of non-original aspects of that car (including the obvious twin cam). Also - even though it says 1967 (which may be when it was first registered), it likely left the factory in ~1964.

I particularly like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/161512527288

Do you have any preference for series? +2? Fhc? Originality important? I can ask around.

Hi Alan, From what I can tell from my notes (again - I make no guarantee of accuracy), it looks like 1340's H had a volume of 39cc, so you may be close. I've used this calculator before and verified with hand calculations. http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html Bore will be 80.97mm, stroke is 65.08. The rest will depend on your head gasket, block, etc. -Geoff

Allan, It depends on the 116e head you're using. From my notes, Low comps were 52cc, high comps 41cc and GT 36cc, but I cant guarantee those numbers. It would be best to measure. -Geoff W

Brian Linn is on pole in his fp super seven. Race is today at 1:30 pacific.

Laguna Seca offers the best chance for a Seven to take home a victory in a long time. I'll be there Sunday to support, but I'll be looking forward to seeing what the sevens do in EP and FP.

Rubber end seals are the best way to go, just make sure their sized properly for the grooves they rest in. I've had really good luck with "the right stuff" by permatex on the oil pan gaskets. Make sure you also apply sealant where the rubber meets the cork. I've also had really good luck using studs near the end seals to hold the gasket in place while bolting it all up. It would be a false economy not to replace the timing chain wear pad while you're in there too.

For your zetec, you'd want a formula continental piece: http://i62.tinypic.com/j9q0cm.jpg You may want to try contacting van diemen or any of the reputable FC engine builders.

Nice little battle there - looks like fun. Is your car a caterham or lotus? It is hard to tell, but it almost looks as though it has top wishbones up front which I assume wouldn't be allowed in vintage.

Depends on compression ratio... If you're running a high compression, spend the money and get a high quality gasket, but I'd stay away from MLS if you just have a street motor. Most Formula ford guys seem to run Fel-Pro without any issue, but they have a compression ratio of 10:1. Since I'm running 10.7:1, I spent a bit more money and I've been pleased with my Ajusa head gasket from Burton Power.

So does his Caterham. The ford kents were used in bobcats.

They look similar to these, but are cast instead of stamped. The cast version are very difficult to come by and have not been reproduced by anyone, to my knowledge. http://www.classiccarexchange.co.uk/toggle-catches-p-418.html

PCD is 4x4.25. That I can tell you for certain. I can also tell you the wheels on the green car are panasports for certain and the red car has some off-brand panasport/minilite type wheel. The rest of my response will be speculation. I have done some measurements on my caterham and have done some work designing and working with wheels of similar size, so I believe it to be informed speculation. The wheels on the green car appear to be 13x6.5 or 7 with approximately a 0 (possibly slightly positive) offset. There are more photos of this car here: http://www.themotoringenthusiast.com/caterham-7 The wheels on the second car appear similar to the ones on this car: http://usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=7609 according to his spec sheet, they are 13x7" wheels. I believe them to be slightly negative offset. In order to be certain they will fit, you should probably measure your car. Not all 7 fenders are created equal.

Try Bert and Fay Curtis here: http://www.kineticvehicles.com/Curtis.html

Congrats on your purchase. I've always loved Mallocks. It should be a lot of fun. Rick: you may have another opportunity: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1972-Mallock-Race-Car-Sports-Racer-Ford-Crossflow-Cortina-not-Lotus-powered-/261507473190?forcerrptr=true&hash=item3ce30f5f26&item=261507473190&pt=Race_Cars_Not_Street_Legal_