TheDingo8MyBaby

Which one? What condition? Bored out? Any extras? (headwork, cam, forged pistons, dry sump..etc) If you're looking for one, this could very well be one of the best deals out there: http://www.californiacaterhamclub.com/chat/showthread.php?t=1221

Why not just clean it up and try again? You've got plenty of gasket material. Exhaust gaskets on the crossflow are notorious for leaking... You can also buy a gasket for a 72 ford pinto if the permatex doesn't work. Can't say for sure you won't burn a valve, but it isn't likely- at least not with a small leak. You might lose a small amount of power as well.

I always thought the more appropriate name was the altar since people grab onto it and pray.

Those actually look like revolutions... I've never heard of raceline. http://www.revolutionwheels.com/5-spoke/

Haha...people may think you're crazy...but sometimes the solenoid gets stuck this totally works. I had a starter go out right before finals when I was in college. I had to do this for a week every time I started the car.

Are you referring to the USDM intake manifold that came in the AE86 or the ITB version that came on the later japanese corolla 20V.

Nope. Water/alcohol/soap solution and just work the bubbles out.

This doesn't necessarily mean the battery has failed. There could be a short somewhere or a high resistance. I think since you have extra batteries you know are good, try swapping the battery. It sounds like it is most likely your culprit.

Nicely done! It looks better than many factory built cars. With the 4x114.3 bolt pattern, you have massive amount of aftermarket wheels at your disposal. Is there a reason you chose the 22RE/w58 as opposed to 4ag/t50? I was also suprised to hear you're using a supra rear end - those things are huge! What knuckles/rack are you using? There are a few tricks you can do to get a bit more steering angle out of the car.

The Bridgestone RE-01R is probably the best Street-Tire class autocross tire out right now. They are in the same category as the Dunlop Z1 Star Spec, Kumho XS, Falken RT-615, and Hankook Z212 R-S2. I understand that the Kumho XS are supposed to be as good, if not better than the RE-01R's. The RE01R are more expensive than the XS but I hear they tend to last longer. The RS2's are supposed to be very good in the wet, but have the least dry grip. They are very reasonably priced though. I've only driven the falkens and dunlops, but I like the dunlops. Better overall grip, though they did not take well to being overheated as well as the 615's. I'm pretty sure the dunlops lasted longer too. They're also better in the rain and seem to be a bit less noisy (neither of which you should be incredibly concerned about in a 7).

It certainly makes a difference on wear/tear under "spirited" use. It also makes a difference in regards to lap times; so does left foot braking.

I've used Venture Sheild on my rear wings. No chips after 2000 miles and it was very reasonable when I bought it on ebay (less than $20 to do both fenders) http://www.venturetape.com/pdfs/VentureShield_Brochure.pdf The elise guys use starshield - or helicopter tape. I think this stuff is pretty pricey though. I considered the bedliner option, but line-x wanted $200 to do it. Another alternative I've considered is skateboard grip tape...

Thanks DB6. I gave pierce a call and they were able to resolve things for me. Apparently weber has their part numbers wrong. it's 64830.006, not 64820.006.

I'm having trouble finding a couple parts for my webers. The set screw and jam nut fell out of the bottom of the carb while doing a spirited run last weekend. Now the choke tube wants to rotate in the carb which blocks the main jet. The effect is that I end up running on 3 cylinders when trying to apply more than 20% throttle (using the main jets). If you'll notice the drawing, I'm looking for items 24 (34710.003) and 28 (64820.006) on this drawing. (the lock nut and set screw that hold the venturi in place) http://www.webcon.co.uk/weber/40dcoe.htm The lock nut is no issue, but every US weber distributor I try does not seem to carry the set screw. I've even been told weber discontinued the part. Does anyone have any good sources for weber parts?

I can confirm that spax is the same.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news... http://www.autoblog.com/2009/02/06/clarkson-top-gear-usa-canned-viewers-just-dont-get-it/ The hosts were adam carolla and tanner foust. I had a couple friends that went to the pilot taping. They said it was "ok."

You can buy other harnesses for a considerable amount less than from Caterham. If you do not do any competetive racing, an out of date set of belts may be an option for you. Just make sure the belts are in good condition without and tears or freys. Don't even bother though if you're not going to run it up throught he bottom of the seat. Otherwise it wont do any good at all. Also, if you're not as concerned about what defines you as a man, you can go with a 5 point.

I would say the Zetec is generally cheaper than a crossflow, though probably not by much.

Interesting. That explains the wire wheels....

This is a pretty small lot too...

I'm more interested in the mallock behind it (though pink isn't really my color)

Lotus Seven inspired Sportscars

We have a hiring freeze until July, but I could put some good words in for you if you're open to Southern California and Bio-med.

Gert, This may save you a couple bucks on shipping (though they are a bit more expensive)... and they're pretty reasonable when it comes to mounting and balancing. http://www.citytireonline.com/Toyo_PROXEST1-R.htm

You may want to try taking a look at the cobra forums. http://www.ffcobra.com/forums/ If you go to the northeast event section, there are a lot of MA cobras there, so maybe they can give you some tips/hints. You may want to try registering so you can search... Goodluck!