Croc

The puzzle you are looking at is why I have always thought getting a custom ratio BGH 5 speed box provides the best solution long run. Ok so it is not 6 speed but you can have 5 well designed and spaced ratios for a decent price (at least compared to the Caterham 6 speed).

Just signed up. Hopefully Greg can assign us to the right groups as I could not work out where to specify this. :iamwithstupid: I have also extended my accommodation for Sunday night at the pit suites.

careful - the photos on the linked site are 2003 photos just after it was built. It would be good to see what it looks like today.

Standard spec for a diff ratio on a CSR here in the US has been 3.62:1 which is what I have. 3.38.1 is rare but personally I think it would be a good ratio to have. This means at 70mph I am not far off 4000rpm in 6th. My theoretical top speed with my gearing and tires is 150mph at 7800rpm which is the redline for my spec duratec engine. Not that I have ever seen that speed - I keep it to 7000rpm which equates to about 135-137 area. With the billet crank you can up the duratec to 8500rpm and it loves to rev. I think you run into the problem that the standard T-9, the Honda Ap2, etc are all designed for large heavy cars which need a low first to get things off rolling from rest. The Miata gearbox is designed for a small light car and so should give a better match up. The Caterham 6speed works well but is intended more as a circuit box (and the ratios are perfect for that) and so limited cruising abilities.

Thanks Greg for clarifying on here. Mike - pre-tech is ok based on an email exchange with Greg overnight. Obviously this is based on the clear expectation that you go around the car doing the exact same checks that a mechanic would before signing. This is something I do anyway as I do not want things breaking or falling apart at 100mph. There will still be a tech at the track by LTW before being ok'ed to go on track. I think I can survive HPDE 3 to run with you.

My car is ok for HPDE/track days because it can pass a broomstick test. My car will never be acceptable for racing. For the east coast, SCCA/NASA want a full cage for racing. There are posts on here by Blubarisax on his quest to develop an acceptable cage on Caterham that satisfies the bureaucratic SCCA flunkeys. RNR's car would not be acceptable for racing on the east coast because it is not a full cage but he would be welcomed for HPDE/track days where things are more flexible. It has got better with age plus I am more used to the tight gate spacing on the gear box. If I was doing a lot of touring like you are thinking I would suggest you explore getting a custom BGH gearbox from the UK with a usable first gear and an overdrive 5th combined with a 3.41 (or possibly even 3.3) diff ratio. This would reduce revs nicely for 5th gear cruising. Mine sounds busy at 70mph.

Mike - coincidentally I am in too. I was online about to register and then discovered the pre-tech requirements. So I just sent an email to Greg to clarify that I can tech my car myself. I would send an email direct to Greg at glm@ltwmotorsports.com as he is more likely to respond promptly this way. I have no wipers installed and run an aeroscreen so share some of your issues. If we signed up for HPDE 3 then it seems to say slicks are ok. I assume it will be ok but I think it makes sense to ask Greg directly.

For those still on the fence about joining in, please note that TrackDaze announced in an email today that they are nearly sold out for both days and only have a few spots left available.

For those still on the fence about joining in, please note that TrackDaze announced in an email today that they are nearly sold out for both days and only have a few spots left available.

Sounds complicated. I just took my standard wind deflectors and shoved them into a big pot of boiling water on my stove. I heated up the perspex this way and gradually made the curved end even more sharply curved. This makes the wind deflector stand out more perpendicular from the body. The boiling water did make me lose my silicone bumper but I just stuck another on. This modification shifted the buffet point backwards from my face to beyond my ear and makes it more comfortable for running without half hood or doors. Adding the half doors to this improved things further.

Bruce - I am flying in that morning from the UK. Assuming I am on time then I will come out and join Steve as navigator in his passenger seat. I am not expecting to be in any condition from a red eye to drive myself. If I am running late then I will see you about 12 noon area at the parking lot when you come back for lunch at the Ship Inn. Fingers crossed for good weather.

For one track day I was actually tested with a stick from top of roll bar to the front of the engine block. For the record I pass although it is close. In the NE if a Caterham has a low engine block then the broomstick rule has been applied to go from the roll bar to the chassis tube under the nose cone in front of the engine.

With standard (non-lowered) floors and standard roll bar/standard track day roll bar was marginal clearance for my head - maybe an inch. Adding lowered floors creates about 1.5 inches extra clearance. Adding the tall track day roll bar creates another 1.5 inches clearance (over the standard track day roll bar). Going from regular leather seats to Tillets gives you an extra 0.5 inches and if you take out the seat track for fore/aft movement you gain a further 0.5 inches. All of the above are incremental changes. The hood is put together for your roll bar type - so you do not go without.

JohnK - your earlier thread is here: http://usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=7937&highlight=craftsman+jack I have the same (or very similar jack) and think it is brilliant for sevens. I like how the rubber pads protect the chassis jacking point. However, while it worked on a Caterham with regular floors it is too high for my current CSR with lowered floors if I want to jack from the side. You are left with a small chassis tube lip (1.5 inches) on the side of the tub with which to work with. Works well under the chassis at the nose. My adding a diffuser to my rear end makes jacking there rather interesting but even removing the diffuser I am unable to get under the diff with this jack unless I put the rear wheels up with jacking wheel dollies. Ideally with the CSR I would want a 2.5 inch entry height jack instead of a 3.5inch entry height jack with a rubber jacking pad for protection. Definitely no U shape jacking pad as most of the jacking I do is with a level surface being jacked with the exception of the diff. They are out there - Roman has identified one and I have seen others for sale from time to time. There is a thread on the CSR forum about jacking points in a CSR.

I have the track day roll bar which gives my head 2 inches of clearance with helmet. The lowered floors add 1.5 inches (roughly) and so without them my roll bar head clearance would be marginal. Even though I am lower I can still see the tops of the front wings which is my front extremity. A corvette nose slopes away so you are not sure where the front corners are. I think lowered floors will be a good addition - a Caterham with lowered floors and aeroscreen is still a very airy position on track and you will appreciate the lessened wind buffeting on road when touring. Best way to check head clearance is to try a Caterham on and ask an observer to check your head clearance. If you are concerned then spec the tall track roll bar. I know they say the integrated dash comes with lowered floors but Caterham UK factory told me they can special order without when I visited in November 2010 - hypothetical for me as I wanted the lower floors. Caterham USA were not aware of this until I discussed what the UK told me. If it helps I am back with my car on June 13 and can take an eye level photo looking forward to help you gauge? If they can do integrated dash with removable wheel then this is a change since the 2011 model CSRs - a very welcome change - as it is a challenge getting into a CSR with the fixed wheel.

First a point of clarification. By integrated dash I assume you mean the curvy/swoopy design as pictured half way down this linked page? http://usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=6281 Assuming that I understand you correctly then I have one of these in my CSR. It was not actually my choice as I jumped on a kit that had it spec'ed where the owner had to sell it before construction. The good - Easy to use, easy to see dials - Turn signals are wonderful after multiple sevens with the original dash - looks pretty :cooldude: The bad - Insanely hot bare metal chassis tubes running down the tunnel length - I get a burned right elbow. The regular dash covers up these tubes in pleather/vinyl capping. - steering wheel too low in my lap to be ideal - does not allow removable steering wheel - the curved opening for the legs limits my knee room for pedal work. I am a fairly chunky character so this may not be an issue for you. On balance, I would not do an integrated dash again. I would go standard dash, regular dials and removable wheel. I have zero regrets with the rest of the car and would spec it the same way again. Some other clarifications: - This integrated dash option is CSR only. It is not available on the S3 or S5 (SV) chassis - The integrated dash uses a Rover Metro steering column to get a indicator/wiper binnacle. For this reason it will not allow a removable wheel. - If you go standard dash then construct it with a delay module on the indicators where they cancel after some time period 20 seconds or so. There is a thread on Blatchat to this effect. - The lowered floors are an independent choice from the dash choice. I am 5'11 and think the lowered floors are brilliant. I have tried them in Caterhams of both dash designs and think they work well. If you are a midget then I would not suggest the lowered floor option but everyone over 6 feet should consider them as standard. If you are around the NYC/Philly area I would be happy to show you my car for you to make an informed decision after seeing it in person.

They can be very reliable or they can be very unreliable. The difference is in the level of attention and care to maintain. Every seven I have owned has required fettling to get it right and reliable. Two of mine were used when bought and the current one was new. All needed work. Once you methodically work through the car to get it up to scratch then you will find it just as reliable as an M3. However, remember you will be driving a thoroughbred and so it rewards a little more care and attention than a common garden variety shopping cart car. This always kicks off a mass debate. I think it really comes down to personal preference. Think of your priorities: - Pedigree and traditional looks - Caterham - Traditional looks, cheaper price with only a few sacrifices over a Caterham and US based support - Birkin - Dirty big throbbing V8, US based parts and support? - Brunton Stalker - Modern styling and S2000 engine with US based support - WCM Ultralite - Mix of traditional and modern styling - Westfield All of these options come standard with stunning performance and brilliant handling. All owners will tell you theirs in the best! I suggest you meet up with a few of the owners on here and check the cars out in person. Most owners would love to take you out for a drive to terrorize you. Not difficult at all. Lots of people have done it and there is a strong support group of CA owners to guide you. Sean will be along shortly to chime in on this. Well, I used to drive my Caterham to the track from NYC to south Jersey 100 miles. It gets really old pretty soon doing interstate highway runs dicing with feral truckers, Moms breast feeding junior while driving the family SUV with Dad asleep in the passenger seat, elderly couples in the old Mercury doing the Florida trip, harried business men in rent a hacks, etc. Some guys local still do it - but they are hardier than I. My money is on you wanting a trailer eventually. Well one guy on here bought an old Caterham race car at a very low price (think lower than low teens) and while it needs a new gearbox she will be a great track car. Everything was set up already on it. Birkins go for high teens to low 20s and with some work they could fit your budget. Have not seen a Ultralite get into that price band yet. Stalkers are close though - maybe ever so slightly higher. Best value is in a used car. Kit builds will always be more expensive - I am not aware of a kit build being able to match the budget you have - maybe a Stalker?

Amazon is another cheap source for Hylomar.

Knowing Michael he probably does want a good wench. :rofl: I find they are very useful around the house - second best thing to have in each of the kitchen and bedroom. :leaving: Back on track....great result Carman. Up against such elite competition that is a magnificent achievement!

That does not sound good Steve. A couple of options: 1) Do it yourself? MichaelD had a good diagram of a T9 plus you are quite handy mechanically and Bsimon on here knows all about T9s from my reading about past threads. Maybe ping him directly with a PM to ask some questions. 2) Give George Alderman a call at Midatlantic Caterham. He can be quick turnaround on gearboxes or so I saw with MichaelD when he had his troubles. However, he is rebuilding another member's car for NJMP June after it impacted a wall so he may have his hands full for a short notice job. 3) Taylor Race Engineering in TX http://www.taylor-race.com I am sure there are others but this is off the top of my head.

Thanks for the heads up Skip - did not notice that one. I have seen it before but it is so good I would be happy to see it again.

Yes - thats what happens when you dont have IRS!:ack:

Did you know that if you have a CSR with the extra diff struts then the doors do not fit in the boot even after folding in half? Also if you are long of leg then they do not fit behind the seats either? :nopity:

That was what I needed! A nice 15 minute distraction from the usual office detrius that litters my desk! :rofl: One day I will drive some great roads of Europe....one day.....

Sorry Subtlez28 I got lazy and did not take any. But look out for the June 22/23 NJMP post next month when there will be a lot of photos and eventually video of a bunch of middle aged to ancient farts goofing around on track in their sevens.