bsimon

Unintended paint solvent blow? The gauge and hand pump would be a nice addition. I've seen a nice bleed system made from a small garden sprayer on instructables or some such website.

Gunson's Ez-Bleed for me. A little awkward in that you need a sacrificial spare tyre to power the rig, but effective nonetheless. I found the key to good fluid changes is changing colors. I regularly switched between ATE Super Blue and ATE 200 (same stuff, just two different colours). ATE can no longer sell blue fluid in the U.S. since it was discovered by DOT to be ... blue. (It took them 20 years to discover this.) All brake fluid in the U.S. Must be Amber or clear. There are dyes available now for "off road use" that can be had to colour the fluid of your choice.

You found the employee parking lot at Great Clips...:leaving:

http://www.waytekwire.com Weatherpak Metripak, Duetch, Junior timer. (Injector plugs)

I opted for the $9.99 live feed from LeMansTV. Nice coverage with selectable in car feeds from each team. The sounds of P1 Le Mans cars these days are really disappointing. Gutting a live cat while braking, squeezing the shit out of another on acceleration.... I wonder how the drivers can stand that for a 6 hour stint?

With the demise of Justintv, I can't sem to find a worthwhile live feed for this year's 24H. Fox Sports 2 will have alternating coverage with Fox1. I can'get Fox1. Anyone found a good live feed on the Internet? Foreign language is OK. Free is better.

Pre-engineered organic composite structure. very cutting edge...

Lots of good bits here. May not fit all Caterhams... http://www.bidspotter.co.uk/en-gb/search-filter/auction-catalogues/timed/caterham/catalogue-id-caterham10000?utm_source=The+Chelsea+Magazine+Company+Ltd&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=5404108_Racecar+-+Wyles+Hardy+Solus+March+2015&dm_i=6NM,37TU4,47HRL5,BISH1,1

I have a mirror mounted on my Yamaha Kodak with the RAM system. Very stable and reasonably vibration free, considering the one lung engine and rough terrain.

I would up for the Pikes Peak run. Keep me posted as LOG approaches. The driver of the Lotus Seven at Pikes Peak in 1966 was Dan Morgan of Pueblo Colorado. He was a regular USAC Champ Car driver in the area. He posted a 13:59.8 in the USAC Sports Car class at the Peak. The car was powered by a 289 SBF. Not much else seems to be known.

This is a dupe, but... Second place in class 1966 Pikes Peak Hillclimb

One place the lightened flywheel really shines is in conjunction with a dog engagement gearbox. The engine decelerates faster when you lift the footfeed to allow faster and smoother clutchless shifts, be it a sequential or H-pattern 'box. The engine spools up or "blips" faster for clutchless downshifts as well.

Daniel, I still have the harbor freight engine stand that Alaskossi used sitting in my Conex. It's right here in Loveland. You are welcome to borrow it for as long as you need it. Send me a PM and we can make arrangements. -Bob

The real job is getting the propshaft yoke back into the gearbox on installation. Be nice to the missus 'cause you'll need her to line up the yoke when re-installing the engine/gearbox unit.

The gearbox goes in a Seven horizontally from the front since there are chassis tubes crossing under it. Don't know aboot Birkin but I'd suspect it's similar to Caterham; the engine and gearbox come out as a unit. Very simple. I've heard of some guys pulling the engine first then pulling the gearbox second. That sounds difficult to me. Too many friggin bolts to undo with no space to swing a spanner.

Whine in all gears except direct? 40+ in first gear @6000rpm? Slight rattle in neutral? Very tiny rpm drop from direct to overdrive? It's a pretty good chance you have a square cut gear set, probably Quaife with 2.39 first, 1.61, 1.21, direct, and .87OD ratios. There are other manufacturers offering square cut gear sets as well. If your Birkin has a 3.89 ratio and typical 205-50-15 tyres, a 2.39 first gear would give you ~ 44mph @6000 rpm. I would ring up the builder/dealer/importer and find out for sure what's in your car. If it was originally sold through the usual channels, they may have a record of what 'box was sourced with that particular kit.

If it's a square cut gearbox, the ratios will be rather close. Closer than most reworked helical cut type nines. The typical Caterham supplied straight cut 'box has a 2.04 first gear. They do whine in all gears EXCEPT direct. Not particularly noisy in neutral, maybe just a little. Can you do 60MPH in first gear? If your gearbox is not straight cut, I'd check the circlips under the front nosepiece of the box first. A Broken circlip will allow the input shaft to drift back into the works and whine. Next stop is the roller bearing between the input shaft and the main shaft. Next check the blocker spring and blockers on the 4th gear (direct). Next, the 4th gear balk ring itself.

Z100WR was the AWD version with twin Suzuki GSXR engines. I understand there were only two factory owned cars ever built. The Z100 was the more common RWD with twin kawasaki ZX9s. http://www.tigerracing.com/z100.php

The Tiger z100 was rear wheel drive only. The output shafts from the bike gearboxes were both chained to the propshaft. Split shifting allowed the driver to keep one engine on the cam until the other spooled up. I imagine shifting was a chore keeping one or the other engine from bumping the rev limiter and bogging the process.

I can't wait to hear the rest of this Saab story...

That's the way it's supposed to go. Swap parts, set backlash, set pre-load, button up and done. It gets more involved when the pinion has to be removed, e.g., diff came with the wrong pinion depth, bad bearings, etc.

Here is the manual for the 7" diff. A nice quiet diff is the sign of proper setup. If your current diff is quiet, chances are the swap will be easy. Swapping the carrier is a piece of cake. Backlash and carrier bearing pre-load are the only adjustments to make. In this case you won't even remove the pinion shaft. Pattern the crown wheel and pinion before dis-assembly to verify condition.

It's really hard to picture a "rich boy buyer" combing the gravel out of his hair and wiping standoff from his mug after a blat in a seven. I think creature comforts would come a bit higher on the requirement list for that particular demographic.

Take a close look at your old Webers if you still have them. There will probably be a series of custom drilled progression holes in the idle/mid curcuit access port above the throttle plates. I'm not sure what Kent block drillings are speced by Caterham, but there are between 4 and 6 holes in each port of the 48DCOE and 45DCOE carbs found on the VX engined cars. Since the 1700SS is a rather specific engine to Caterham, I would suspect they had established some custom tuning requirements for the webers as well. Off-the-shelf Webers usually only have 1 hole. Google "Weber progression holes"

The dampers either bolt through the middle of the DeDion tube -or- underneath the DeDion tube depending on what tube revision is in the car. I require through-the-tube damper length for my particular setup.