xcarguy

CRAFTS-MAN-SHIP TO THE Nth DEGREE!!!!:hurray:

Nose cone color!!!! I hate spell check on this phone! 😁

Wheel and nose come color . . . Don't change either; home run. 😃

Leave the duct tape: adds character.

Looks like a Mini 7

Ice, Here's the bottom line; no matter the make, no matter the engine size, straight axle or IRS, whatever . . . these cars are FUN. I've driven some of these cars with less than half the HP of my car and it didn't reduce the excitement factor of driving one bit. All of these cars are a smile-a-minute when you get behind the wheel.

My top five thoughts: • Are these shrimp boats or submarines • Now I know why the shrimp plate at the local Flying Burger restaurant is $15.50 • I always wondered where the footage for 'The Perfect Storm' was shot • Here, hold my beer and watch this and • $15.50 a plate 'ain't' enough

iceberg1234, I’ve driven Ultralites, Birkins and Stalkers and have looked closely at several Caterhams (no seat time); no experience with any other manufacturers. I used to be a hard-core Cobra fan until I got behind the wheel of what used to be Brian Anderson's Ultralite called Goldie; I've been hooked ever since. I’ve owned both a Birkin and a Stalker; the Stalker that I now own, I’ve owned twice (second rodeo with this car). While I truly liked the ‘more traditional’ look of the Birkin vs. the Stalker, I absolutely love the performance of my Stalker with its LS6. My Birkin made around 225hp at the crank, was backed by a Quaife sequential 6-speed and commanded very respectable performance. My Stalker currently puts down 370hp at the rear wheels with almost as much torque, is backed up by a Liberty Performance TKO 600 with face-plated gears and such but demands much more from the driver in the way of skill and wisdom at full throttle than did the Birkin. The Birkin, in comparison, seemed a bit more refined where the Stalker seems to be more of a raw brute. As for the available power produced by the Stalker, the saving grace is the very progressive throttle linkage I’m using which makes the power extremely manageable—I can drive this car on the street just as easily as I do my Toyota truck. Where the Birkin is more of a mail-order car (across-the-pond parts), the Stalker is produced in the US using parts available in the US and can basically be built using over-the-counter parts readily available from your local parts store; it’s just an American version of these type cars. I can’t speak for other manufacturers, but of the Birkins and Caterhams I’ve seen, they all seem to be more uniform in the build whereas the Stalkers I’ve seen are more like a fingerprint or an extension of the builder’s personality. When it comes right down to it, it all depends on what you want. Do research and look at and drive/ride in the cars you are considering. As for the Stalker, here is a link to the Stalker build galllery. If you want to look at my car, it is chassis #85: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/ Price wise, you can buy an already built (used) car much cheaper than you can build one . . . regardless of manufacturer, and there are some very well sorted cars out there for sale. However, you will probably still need to make changes to any car you purchase, just ask anyone on this forum (I bought my car back last summer and it has been down for the last two-three months for winter projects). You can get a very nice, well equipped Birkin in the low to mid twenties (same for the Stalker with a super charged V6). Well equipped Caterhams seem to fetch a bit more money. The comparisons are endless and much more can be said here, but I'll stop and let someone else chime in. :banghead: I don't know where you live, but if you are close to south Arkansas, I'll be glad to take you out in the Stalker. Good luck with your search. X

Dang! I ran out of breath just reading your post. :svengo:

Hey, 80, 51 years young and still chasing the rainbow for that elusive pot o' gold. :deadhorse: And I absolutely agree with you on metal fabrication vs. epoxy; I have first-hand experience with such, and thus the main reason my floor is bare concrete. I did the floor in my garage at my last residence and within two year’s time, I had pretty much destroyed the finish with (you guessed it) lots of metal fabrication. X

Wheels are urethane; was an upgrade from Direct Lift. I went through the 'steel wheel' thing with my last garage floor-- urethane is easier to move around and less wear and tear on the floor.

Direct Lift portable four-post lift dollies.

When the boogeyman goes to bed, he checks underneath for Chuck Norris. :devil:

Klasik-69, Thanks for the compliment on the shop. The Cobra in the pics is an ERA 289 FIA; one of the nicest I've ever seen and had the privilage of owning. I sold it shortly after buying my Stalker back from Sharkey (I didn't want to maintain two cars). The Cobra sure was a looker, but performance wise in comparision to the Stalker with the LS6, it just couldn't hang.

All this planning . . . Who's buying the beer? :cheers: :cheers: :puke::svengo:

Mine came from a company called Direct Lift. I have the Pro Park 8 Plus Long: http://www.directlift.com/Pro-Park-8-PLUS-LONG-Four-Post-Lift-P54C9.aspx It's made across the pond, but I've been very pleased with the form and function thus far. Also, buy two of the Pro Jack 3500 jacks. It's another grand, but well worth it. They are made for the Pro Park 8: http://www.directlift.com/Pro-Jack-3500-P45C18.aspx

Floor!!! . . . Never mind the floor! Look at the size of that garage! And you have, not one, but two lifts? Can I come over and play? :svengo:

I wonder how much the first 'wrecked' C7 would bring at BJ? :Chevy_anim:

Just scored a set from Moss; arrived yesterday . . . the projects continue. :willy_nilly:

If you treat a seven with this stuff, will it make it faster?

I'm on my third seven ownership session; the car I own now I've owned once before. So, guess what I keep going back to??? . . . You will too if you sell yours. I agree with your wife; you won't be happy without it. :iagree: Save yourself some heartache and keep the car. While you’re at it, grab some steaks for the grill. :hurray:

With regard to the charcoal grill, I have to disagree; it shows off the strength of the man. :jester:

Mike, If you can locate the “original” relay for the pump, check the ground (85). This may be the issue. I sent you a pm; call if you want. Shane

Mike, The fuel pump is a high-draw item and should have a relay in the mix. To reiterate Dale’s post, the ECU on EFI cars usually powers the fuel pump relay. During start (pre-start: ignition key to on) the fuel pump should prime the system and then shut off. Once the car is started (engine running), the fuel pump should turn on and operate until you shut off the ignition. Here is a common electrical schematic for an electric fuel pump. 85: power to the relay from the ignition 86: ground for the relay (ground for 85) 30: power from the battery (fuse block) 87: power to the pump When power is applied to 85 via the ignition, a connection is 'powered' closed between 30 and 87 allowing power from the fuse block to be routed to the pump.

I have a TKO 600 for sale on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/160972176155?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 SOLD! :smash: